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I would take a look on Fred's

ran it for 18miles- light came on :( code 17656 present.. ive got no idea where to go with this one.. gonna start looking at bad earths and checking relays and fuses.. failing that, its main dealers :( :( :(

cheked timing- ok. checked/cleaned fuses-ok. replaced fuel filter return valve-ok. checked relay 109- green corrosion dribble from terminal 85???? cleaned up, bit of copper grease- gonna see if it improves things at all- if not gonna source new relay/holder and solder in.. hopefully this is it!

If you talking about the rightmost of five terminals on the bottom of the relay plate, then this is the circuit switched by relay 109.

If you have moisture there, you need to remove the windscreen wiper motor and remove the lid to the connection box in the plenum chamber. Check the connectors for corrosion and make sure the lid is well sealed.

looks like thats the next 'port of call'- its still doing it.. hit 70-80mph, within five minutes- warning light, stuttering eventual stall.. :(

another thought is a faulty ecu? its the only other thing i can think of.. :(

another thought is a faulty ecu? its the only other thing i can think of.. :(

Get relay 109 replaced.

just replaced relay 109- still doing it, ive worked out it does it when your accelerating hard.. eg going uphill, getting on fast dual carriageway/ motorway..

gonna strip out the wipermotor and check those connections underneath.. gonna pull the ecu out and check connections- also gonna take serial number and get some quotes on testing the ecu- i have got another ecu spare, but they need to be cleared? (to work with the immobilizer?) so gonna get prices for that.. im kicking myself tho- wish i hadnt sent the key fob to the scrappy with the shell- i could have just swapped ecu's and fobs and tried that?

just replaced relay 109- still doing it, ive worked out it does it when your accelerating hard.. eg going uphill, getting on fast dual carriageway/ motorway..

gonna strip out the wipermotor and check those connections underneath.. gonna pull the ecu out and check connections- also gonna take serial number and get some quotes on testing the ecu- i have got another ecu spare, but they need to be cleared? (to work with the immobilizer?) so gonna get prices for that.. im kicking myself tho- wish i hadnt sent the key fob to the scrappy with the shell- i could have just swapped ecu's and fobs and tried that?

Swapping the ECU requires you to pair the ECU and the cluster.

Given that you have swapped the fuel pump, we have to assume it is OK. With the exception of pins 5 and 10, all the wires from the pump connector go right to the ECU.

Pin 5 goes to fuse 32.

Pin 10 goes to 34.

Both fuse are fed from relay 109.

Given that you are suffering when the demand for fuel is highest, it is possible that you have a fuel restriction. The obvious place would be the fuel filter but you have already replaced it. Does it make a difference if you run without the fuel cap?

no- that was the first thing i tried- driving with the fuel cap off-- i thought perhaps i had a breather blocked and was running to vacuum :( unfortunatley it wasnt that simple :(

i also queried weather the timing was 'wrong'.. but it was still doing it after a fuel pump replacement, so im thinking the chances of that are pretty slim.. admittedly- i havnt got the full version of vag com- so i cant test it precisely, but it was fine on the static marks- and i changed the belt 4+ months ago..

i was running one of those 'dodgy chip boxes' that plug into the fuel pump connector- so im seriously wondering if ive fkd up the ecu by doing so (i know i had tons of advise not to do it, and to get the ecu remapped instead.. but at the time price was a big deciding factor) obviously- that was the first thing removed.. but im wondering if ive damaged the ecu to the point where i have to send it off to be 'repaired'.. there seems to be a few companies advertisng the fact that they can repair/ clear an ecu so it will plug in and work with your cluster? does that sound right to you? (i have a spare octy ecu)

im coming to the end of my skill level on this one- plus i have to have the car back on the road and reliable to get to blackpool and back next thursday.. so the clock is ticking :( ten days to work it out :( what i dont want to do is send it to the main dealers and them to waste time and my money replacing all the things that ive already replaced..

somebody said try changing the maf sensor? would that throw up 17656 tho? (i have a known good maf..)

any help/ words of advise would be really appreciated

You need to put the car in basic mode to check the timing and you can't do this with VCDS-Lite. I assumed you had done this when you changed the pump.

You can monitor the MAF requested/actual in MB3.2 and MB3.3 at WOT. If you suspect the MAF is causing problems, try running it with the MAF disconnected. The engine will use a default value.

Are you still getting the commencement fault?

That's a timing issue.

yeh- code 17656 injection commencement- only at high revs.. though i dont understand it- ive changed the fuel pump since, obviously retimed it with the proper tools- all my timing marks line up a treat- i even timed it by inserting the pump pin first then checking the crank mark and cam mark- all lined up a treat.. makes me question why has it done it all of a sudden? and why did it not do it when i changed the belt 4mths ago?

i havn't got vag com- to check the timing properly- but to my thinking it should run ok on the static marks- (ive changed loads of these belts in the past- used to work for ford+ did plenty of the galaxy's.. and never had this before?)

ive also considered buying vag com and seeing if it makes any difference- there seems to be alot of info on the net about getting the timing sorted 'properly'

in all fairness - up until your really giving it some- there's plenty of power- runs/starts like a dream.. just hit a hill and floor it and it all goes wrong :( :( obviously its fine for small round town journeys- but i need to be able to do motorway miles :( lots :( :(

I'm prepared to believe that the first pump went faulty some months after the belt was replaced. The problem came when you replaced the pump. This should have fixed the problem.

Provided that the hub was not removed, inserting the lock pin will get you close(ish) to the correct timing. Unfortunately, the internals of the pumps will not be identical and this is why you have a problem now.

Agreed, dynamic pump timing is critical. The pin can go in, but it doesn't mean it's timed correctly.

yeh, but the same problem with two different pumps? the other pump ran fine on my other octy- timing with pins.. thats the bit im really struggling with- if it was only with one pump- i could put it down to a pump/timing issue? but two different pumps?- surely that would be a massive coincidence to have excatly the same issue with two different pumps, both timed up and double checked before removal/fitting/running..

obviously - im gonna have to get the pump timed up with vag-com just to rule that out of the equation.. but im pretty sure that its not a pump/timing issue..

my other alternative is to swap every sensor component on the car (i have a spare octy stripped) my only problem there is that i cannot swap the ecu.. although i do have the cluster? but not the other key chip..

my only ideas now are- 1) swap accelerator pedal (although surely that would throw a pedal fault?)2) maf sensor- although to my knowledge a faulty maf wouldnt throw a 17656? 3)swap any other sensors on engine.. 4)swap gearbox speed sensor 5) check all wiring from pump to ecu for resistances (would need to source wiring diagrams) 6)check all earths 7)spend money and invest in the full vcds..(check timing) 8)get ecu tested/replaced.. obviously the less money i can spend on this the better..

9) send to main dealers and potentially write car off as anything more than 1k writes the car off..

oh and to top it all off 10 days to get all this sorted out :( :( (this is the kind of aggro that convinced me to leave the motortrade! lol)

I'm sure the first pump developed a problem as you didn't have the issue immediately after the belt change. Fitting a new pump should have fixed the problem. Some resistor boxes have been known to damage the fuel temperature sensor.

It's important that pump hub position hasn't changed or you will not be able to set the timing for the pump. All that that fitting the pin guarantees is that diesel squirts out of the right port at approximately the right time and the engine will run SO THAT THE BASIC MODE DYNAMIC TIMING CAN BE SET.

You can register VCDS-Lite for $99, which gives you full functionality for cars that work with unregistered VCDS-Lite. IT WILL NOT WORK WITH CARS THAT ONLY HAVE A CAN-BUS DIAGNOSTIC PORT (Octavia MK2, etc).

see http://ross-tech.com/vag-com/vag-functions.html

where is the fuel temp sensor located?- i thought it was in the pump? yeh- its really looking that vcds is the way forward here, worse case- just to discount the timing as the cause?

gonna have to bite the bullet and spend some money :( :(

where is the fuel temp sensor located?- i thought it was in the pump? yeh- its really looking that vcds is the way forward here, worse case- just to discount the timing as the cause?

gonna have to bite the bullet and spend some money :( :(

The fuel temp sensor is part of the pump and connects to the ECU. The 'resistor box' changes the fuel temperature that the ECU sees.

You may be running with the timing out by as much as one tooth. When I've changed pumps, the bolt positions in the pump sprocket slots are rarely the same.

ok- update-

sent car to main dealers :( had enough of messing about with it.. got a phone call off them a few hours later to tell me that the turbo was sticking and the timing was out.. and that they couldnt sort it out for me as they didnt have the equipment to check the timing dynamically.. so after £75 for nothing decided to buy vag-com and do it myself..

stripped and cleaned turbo..

checked timing with vag-com- timing too advanced.. so after alot of fiddly adjusting managed to get timing within spec..

took it for a test drive and.. its still doing it :( :( cutting out/yellow warning light.. re-checked timing- all ok within spec :(

i havnt got a clue where to go with this now.. :( :(

its a stunning car, but i think i may have to start thinking of selling it (for peanuts- whose gonna buy a car that is knackered?) and losing a shedfull of cash on it- as it wont get 5miles without cutting out :(

decided to send the ecu for testing.. its the only thing left to check :( fingers crossed that they find something wrong with it..

110? Don't they suffer with sticky vanes?

Sent from my Galaxy S2 not a Crapple!

yeh- ive done the old sticky vanes.. :( wouldnt explain the cutting out and warning light tho?

Hi, sorry to bring up an old thread but was there a resolution to this?