hi all,

driving down the motorway earlier this week, (1.9tdi 110 ) started coughing/spluttering and power completely dropped off.. nice orange warning light came on (orange triangle with a semi circular arrow round it?) any way car speed dropped and stalled on hard shoulder.. cranked for ages and managed to get it started, (felt like fuel had run out, but had half a tank) ran for 5 minutes before it started coughing and spluttering and died. the glow plug light began flashing too :(

read fault codes had- 17964 (charge pressure control) and 17656 (injection commencement)

anyway, cleared codes, thought it was some kinda fuel blockage, so removed tank sender/emptied/cleaned tank.. blew through fuel lines, replaced fuel filter- refilled filter with cleaner and it started great.. drove for 2-3 miles and it coughed/spluttered and died..

re-read fault codes, same codes appeared..

im starting to think that maybe the fuel pump is u/s or on its way out? seems as though its not able to suck fuel up from the tank?..

anybody had this problem before?

i have a spare pump that i know to be good, problem is- are they coded to the ecu/car? if so how are they re-programmed?..

not having a good day :(

Dont really do diesels but on petrol its just a pump no need to do anything other than swap it

DG

When was the fuel filter last changed?

Sent from my Galaxy S2 not a Crapple!

the fuel filter was chanaged 6 months ago.. and again after it died the first time.. it really feels like a blockage.. but everything seems nice and clear..

I don' know but are you sure there is no unmarked strainer into the pump there was on the terrano which I think was a jap copy of a bosch several got changed for no other reason after that I would be inclined to get a pump/sender unit from a later model to help the existing pump I gather it will give you a bit more top-end if you care to use it keep us all posted cheers Nic

yeh- that was one thing i was considering- an electric inline pump to push the fuel up to the filter.. seen one on ebay £20 ish.. might give that a try.. gonna make sure that the car is dieing after it sucks the filter empty first, also gonna check that there is no resistance in sucking fuel from the tank to the pump first.. strange tho- seems as tho my pump has lost its suction..

personally i'd rather change the pump- if it dosnt need to be programmed- it looks really straight forward to change - 4x 13mm bolts and its off (plus injector pipes, multi plug connector and timing belt out of the way..)

i'd rather go down this route as i have a good spare pump in front of me off another 110 tdi.. and its a known good one.. (plus it wouldnt cost me anything.. lol)

You'll have to be really careful with the fuel pipe clips if they are the same as the vrs, they are delicate and braking one will result in new fuel pipes!

Sent from my Galaxy S2 not a Crapple!

yeh- i had a spare sender with the old pipes still on it.. so i had a bit of a practice on them does anybody know if the pump (engine) needs to be programmed? as i can see that being a fatal flaw in the plan price wise.. :( cant imagine that would be cheap? in all fairness, i have no experience of changing the vag pump.. ive changed a few pumps on the ford focus (the same bosch model?) and they are coded to the ecu and need programming.. gonna do a google search, to see if i can find any more info..

The car doesn't have a lift pump and you don't need one.

It could be the pump but check injector 3 first.

If you look at injector 3 you will see a wire coming out of it. This is the needle lift sensor. Follow the wire to the connector, unplug it and plug it back in again. Check the resistance of the sensor with a multimeter. It should be about 100 Ohms. Sometimes you will get 17653/17654/17655 codes but not always. It could also be injector 3 sticking.

How many miles?

Have the injectors been cleaned/rebuilt?

...does anybody know if the pump (engine) needs to be programmed?...

To replace the injection pump, you need to retime the engine in the same way as you would do for a cambelt change.

When you look you a replacement pump, check the hub is on the shaft and that the hub nut has never been loosened/removed.

i replaced the injectors with known good ones, about 4k ago.. the original ones were dribbling a bit and starting was sluggish and smokey.. (but it was running ok..)

i will replace no3- i know it ran ok on the previous one.. certainly less hassle than replacing the pump..

ive also got to replace the starter motor- burnt it out cranking it like a fool on the hard shoulder at 4:30am the other morning (had to get the rac in the end :( )

still havnt been able to find any info on coded pump- checked google.. nothing.. ?

the other injection pump is good- hub still on etc- i removed it off my old octavia after the oil pump got blocked and totalled the turbo :(

looking like good news tho- i have all the parts to repair it without major expense- (spare injectors/pump/ engine if needed..lol) just gonna be a 'dirty' weekend! lol

cheers for everyone who has replied fair play- this forum is a fantastic thing- such a wealth of experience/ knowledge

not good news- replaced injectors with known good ones, replaced fuel pump with known good ones and its still doing it :( :( just come back from a 5 mile test run- coughed, spluttered, lost power and stalled.. little orange triangle warning light came on (the one with a semi circular anti clockwise arrow?) managed to restart it eventually and got it home..

just run the diagnostics on it- two codes present- 17656 (injection commencement regulation intermittent) and 17946 (fuel cut off valve present malfunction) i honestly have no idea what is wrong with it- ive changed everything.. :( pump, injectors, filter, cleared fuel lines and tank.. perhaps i will try the tank sender, but i cant see it being this?

any ideas would be really appreciated- as i havnt got a clue what to do now except main stealers.. and i really cant afford that one :(

It could be a relay or wiring.

What year is it?

What engine - AHF or ASV?

its the ahf.. i came across something interesting when searching the internet for info on this fault code- temp sensor fault?- i honestly cant see how that would cause this? but ive just changed it and just completed the longest test drive yet without warning lights/coughing/spluttering.. (way longer than the other two tests that it played up on- same route..)

the problem i have now is having the confidence to take it on a really long drive knowing that it may not be sorted and having the fun of getting the car recovered home.. :(

In theory, any intermitteantly faulty sensor can take down the ECU sensor power supply. Other causes can be the ECU power relay (109 in position 12 on relay plate - very common) or a loose fuse 32.

so far it does seem to be a dodgy temp sender?- strange.. although im not confident enough to attempt my 300mile journey in it tomorrow.. lol

If relay 109 has never been replaced, then I think that's the more likely cause.

Has anyone suggested a maf sensor? Unplug your maf and see if it does it again, may be a longshot but a cheap on to test

May sound quite obvious but have you checked all your grounds are in tact? VAG cars are nutorious for grounding issues. I'd especially check your injector harness tracing back all wiring and identifying the grounds. My other halves polo had this same issue and we eventually found a single 2mm ground wire had corroded. Traced the wiring back to good clean wire, chopped the crap stuff off and hey presto a different car : ) all for the sake of 200mm of new wire.

If you haven't already give it a go- it won't cost you anything but time but it sounds like you've got nothing to loose.

well- so far it is looking like a dodgy temp sensor.. ive just completed an hour test drive, clocked up 44 miles- all different driving conditions and its run like a dream.. i am going to attempt a 300mile trip in it on Wednesday.. but im fairly confident as it was struggling to do 6miles before it packed up before i replaced the temp sensor..

strange tho- i would never have suspected the temp sensor.. all codes came back as fuel system, felt like a fuel system blockage.. bring back pre ecu days- that's what i say, when electrical systems were independent of each other..

Good luck : ) I hope it's sorted now matey

for anyone interested I think there was a how to with pics on Fred's p.s. I's still fit a pump in the tank if one comes along at a good price

Edited 16 July, 201213 yr by cheshire cat

what benefit does fitting an extra pump in the tank have? does it pre-pressurise the fuel before it enters the pump (engine)? does this improve power/performance?

what benefit does fitting an extra pump in the tank have...

None