It feels lacking in power low down (guess it used to get stuck and give me too much boost low down), but happily gets to 4500rpm without any issues, and nice and smooth too.

I am not sure I worked the actuator enough today, so I figured a second application would not do any harm, plus if I do it in the morning I have more of the day to play with it.

I have had those bolts off a number of times before, but never have they seem such a pain in the backside! I removed the 90deg rubber bit of airpipe work too to give a bit more clearance. I have also disabled most of the other vacuum pipework under the bonnet too - I might write a separate post about that.

i had low down boost trouble, when i read codes it was map sensor, unplugged it and plugged it in numerous times and code didnt come back and performance returned.

second go around may help, i was giving the actuater alot of action during the 2 hours, much longer and the mr muscle starts to dry a bit, doesnt do harm but makes sense to remove it whilst still moveable.

is it poss that removing vac work has somehow reduced the power slightly? Is your n72 still connected?

I removed the vacuum stuff a few weeks ago to try and cure the initial limp - to see if I have a vacuum leak somewhere. As it made no difference I did not bother reconnecting it. Which is my n72?

I haven't had any fault codes with reference to MAP. I did try to remove it once, what a total PITA, so I left it alone!

N72 is the one on the bulk head and actually pulls the turbo actuater

I thought that was the n75.

See http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/246652-vacuum-pipework-on-a-diesel/

Edited 11 August, 201213 yr by mbames

early results look good so far, although there is no way I push the actuator arm down with my thumb, as the spring resistance from the vacuum assembly is too great. I can either create my own vacuum and/or use a piece of wood to push down. To start with I was sucking and using my thumb to feel how much movement there was.

I am going to pop off the EGR pipe again tomorrow and apply a second batch, having given it a blast around Weymouth just now - Olympic traffic allowing.... The hardest bit was undoing the two allen key bolts on the bottom of the EGR assembly. I must have done them up far too tight last time (when I was cleaning the turbo, or in 18 months they got extra tight. I though for a while they were never going to budge. Trouble is there isn't much room to get in there with a socket mounted allen key Still I won eventually, and Mr turbo he be happy too

After I had my turbo sorted it did feel like there was a bit less power low down compared to when everything was gummed up. I assumed it was because the turbo was stuck in maximum boost position.

I had the same too before the clean, tons of low down torque, but never really got any greater as revvs went up, now however it has good torque low down but get a nice surge at 2k ish revs. I believe this to be normal, reasonable power up to 2k then a good boost after.

Edited 11 August, 201213 yr by Lofty79

After a second clean this morning I went out tonight (for a 10k run), and when I was driving back home, I had a nice long uphill (1+1+suicide lane), so I booted the car up there in 3rd. She pulled well and the old shape 3 series BMW behind me got a proper face-full of black cr@p which had been building up in the exhaust system for the last 6+ months (I guess).

It makes such a difference to not to be worry when hitting 2,750rpm and being worried about limp, to now being able to carry on happily to 4500. Obviously it won't keep dumping black stuff on BWMs for ever, but that was nice to see his headlights vanishing into the cloud

The black clouds are normal for a few days, each condition creates a different kind of load/angle and frees some more crap from turbo etc, i usually go to red line a couple times and also a clutch depressed redline and that gets rid of most of it.

Worst i saw was my uncles passat, stuck vanes, the smoke was unreal.

If it continues it may be worth a boost pipe check but sure its just dirst freeing up..... Happy it worked for yet another person - hope it lasts for you, it did for me

Even if it does not last it is quick and easy to repeat - I could even do it at work :-)

ive never seen it not last

After I had my turbo sorted it did feel like there was a bit less power low down compared to when everything was gummed up. I assumed it was because the turbo was stuck in maximum boost position.

This is all very interesting reading. I've had issues with my previous Octy 90bhp Ambiente and my current 110 Elegance. Never got around to removing and cleaning/replacing turbo on my Ambiente - the only thing I did with that was use 'Innotec' (cost about £40 but made little difference) and replaced a couple of vac pipes, MAF and a split intercooler. It had good and bad days but never went into limp mode but was overboosting due to sticky vanes. Was always very economical however and had done 168k when traded in for my wifes 100PD Bora.

The 110 Elegance on the other hand had 85k on the clock when I bought that 18 months ago (now has 115k). Anyhow, had similar symptoms to my 90 Ambiente and again didn't get proper 'limp' but wasn't boosting as it should. Went to town on this and had recon turbo (fitted myself), which included full clean of inlet manifold (badly gunged up), EGR blank, new N75 and most of vac pipes replaced. MAF was replaced not long after I first got the car and temp sensor was replaced earlier this year. Despite all this, it doesn't seem to have made a real noticable difference and I really do feel that at times it is quite 'lazy' in performance. Fuel consumption has always been worse than my previous Ambiente, and again only a very small decrease in overall fuel consumption despite all this work.

The only thing I hadn't replaced was the MAP sensor on top of the intercooler, so got one of those and fitted this a couple of weeks back. This has made a further difference and fuel consumption has improved a bit more (nearer the Ambiente figures), but still don't think that it performs as it should. Overall performance I feel is no better than my Ambiente was, despite supposingly having an extra 20bhp!

I have used a couple of different additives including Millers and Silver Hook (Silver Hook made a noticable difference when I first used it) however the effects soon wear off and back to 'normality'. My brother also has a 110 Elegance (but an Estate) with nearly 200k on the clock. Prior to his ownership, it has had the same work done as mine with turbo, MAF, EGR blank etc, however his pulls much better than mine, especially over 3000rpm it really noticable! So what is wrong with mine? Really don't think I am getting the full 110bhp. I am thinking of taking it for a rolling road to check bhp output but again all this is extra expense.

I have had boost checks and it has been confirmed that it is boosting as it should, however I have managed to borrow VCDS off my brother and have done a boost log and plotted my self in Excel. Please have a look at the attached link to see what you think (post new MAP)?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/16049116@N06/7749148698/

Despite all this, these are great cars but they can be a real pain in the a***!!

Dan

actual v specified MAP looks fine.

I found on my car (twice) that the turbo kept jamming up. If you remove the vac pipe to the n75, and suck on it as hard as you can (it might be easiier to do this with the plastic pipe joiner still in the pipe), does the actuator give full travel? if you can get your arm down to the turb can you push the control arm/actuator any more?

Does it move smoothly or make a creaking noise?

I realised with mine yesterday morning (after clean no.2) it did not have the full travel. It can be easier to push the actuator with a piece of wood from above, but you need to remove the stainless pipe between the Exhaust manifold and EGR assembly.

Other options are a vacuum leak - it might be worth replacing the pipework. The hoses are only cheap - even from a dealer. As an experiment you can bypass a lot of a it. Check out a link earlier on in this thread to what I did to mine.

When you checked the car with vcds did you check the timing?

Sent from my HTC Vision using Tapatalk 2

actual v specified MAP looks fine.

I found on my car (twice) that the turbo kept jamming up. If you remove the vac pipe to the n75, and suck on it as hard as you can (it might be easiier to do this with the plastic pipe joiner still in the pipe), does the actuator give full travel? if you can get your arm down to the turb can you push the control arm/actuator any more?

Does it move smoothly or make a creaking noise?

I realised with mine yesterday morning (after clean no.2) it did not have the full travel. It can be easier to push the actuator with a piece of wood from above, but you need to remove the stainless pipe between the Exhaust manifold and EGR assembly.

Other options are a vacuum leak - it might be worth replacing the pipework. The hoses are only cheap - even from a dealer. As an experiment you can bypass a lot of a it. Check out a link earlier on in this thread to what I did to mine.

Hi mbames

Thanks for confirming my boost figures are ok! It had a recon turbo (from Midland Turbo Nottingham) at 108k - now done 115k so should still be soot free. I have pressure tested the vac lines a few times (before and after turbo fitted) all seemed fine however I have renewed lines that were looking ropey as previously explained. Will check again though.

Am wondering whether it is a fuel problem I have rather than turbo/boost?

Trundlenut has suggested checking tdi timing on VCDS. Wanted to do that the other night but couldn't find it on VCDS. Can you advise how I do it?

Thanks for advice so far!

Dan

The Ross tech website has instructions but from memory you to engine - measuring blocks (something 02) then basic settings and click on the obvious button.

Sent from my HTC Vision using Tapatalk 2

The Ross tech website has instructions but from memory you to engine - measuring blocks (something 02) then basic settings and click on the obvious button.

Sent from my HTC Vision using Tapatalk 2

Thanks Trundlenut will have a look and check the timing!

Dan - whip off the vac pipe from the n75 and suck on it - can you get full actuator movement - that quick and easy test!

Should be soot free and actually being soot free are two very different things!

Dan - whip off the vac pipe from the n75 and suck on it - can you get full actuator movement - that quick and easy test!

Should be soot free and actually being soot free are two very different things!

Will whip it off and give it a good suck.....

Will whip it off and give it a good suck.....

This really needs to be quoted out of context :-)

Err ok

Sent from my Galaxy S2 not a Crapple!

This really needs to be quoted out of context :-)

Ooh err missus!!! LOL!!!

Apologies, I will re-word my post to remove the potential 'innuendo' to:

I will disconnect the vacuum hose from the N75 valve and apply suction to the hose to create vacuum to enable to test movement in the VNT actuator!!!

It is unlikely that I will be able to carry out such a test until the weekend!

So I've dismantled it, applied Mr Muscle, thanks to Lofty, (about 20 mins ago)

I have a piece of wood to push on the actuator - now at the moment it won't move at all - am I suppose to be pushing downwards on the left or right piece - see photo?

the piece in the middle running up towards camera in line with central nut

the piece in the middle running up towards camera in line with central nut

Ok thanks Carl, so basically pushing the plunger into the vacuum unit under the turbo then?