Hello

recently purchased a skoda octavia tdi 110 (asv engine) i think,

got the car about 4 weeks ago and has been ok until today.

over the past week i have noticed a slight decrease in performance, i dont really know how these cars are supposed to drive in the first place. i presume from what i have read there is supposed to be a noticeable boost around 2000rpm however the car picks up fine but feels a bit flat and has been steadily getting worse.

today i pulled off a roundabout accelerated up to 2500 -2800rpm (2nd gear) and it started hesitating.,... went into 3rd and a large hesitation and then no power and no boost. The car went into limp mode after the hesitation.

Restarted the car and returned to normal.

From what i have noticed and may not be related and don't know if its normal is Loud turbo (any gear) most of the rev range can only be described as a turbo type whine/whistle

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Sticky veins, search Mr Muscle turbo treatment and follow the guide, its a common problem and an cheap fix

I agree, that does sound like sticky vanes for the 110.

Thanks

from what i have read in forums these vnt turbos are good for low end....but is there supposed to be a noticeable kick at 2000rpm??.. i have never got that, always been very linear from 1300 up to about 4000rpm with no increase just very flat feeling all the way up. One thing i have noticed is very good throttle response at the lower rev range, almost petrol like

Edited 24 August, 201213 yr by r4c

mine was the same, and so have many others, the actuater will be stuck in the open position, and lets you get at the boost earlier, but overboosts when under alot of load or above 3000 revs.

Your symptoms are common, read through the thread and follow it, it will work!

here is the thread

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/243533-the-mr-muscle-vnt-turbo-treatment-thought-we-needed-a-guide-of-sorts/page__hl__%20mr%20%20muscle

when mine had sticky vanes it was more torquey at the lower revs. Being flat all the way up is how mine used to be before I cleaned it, then I got the nice kick and much more acceleration and a

Thats a good thread lofty very informative.....Many Thanks

itll work buddy, ive done many myself for people locally, and many more have reported back, it all comes back successfull.

Shame really I was in ayr yesterday with all my tools and mr muscle and pipes from last job, could have done it for ya, i was visiting calzean castle

Thats fine, hope you enjoyed your day in Ayr

The info seems clear and easy to follow, what do you mean with the following, how would you know if the pipe goes into the "cylinder"

Now the yellow line signifies where the pipe needs to go if you could see through the turbo- make sure it goes down and not into a cylinder - its hard to get wrong but show care

Edited 24 August, 201213 yr by r4c

if you look at pic there is a yellow line coming down and curling around. If the turbo was transparent, then that is the path the pipe would take when fed into the turbo, its just to help visualise what will be happening that you cant see. its to give a good idea of how far it has to go in etc.

hope that clears it up for you

sorry lofty i was meaning this bit

make sure it goes down and not into a cylinder

would that mean its been pushed in the wrong direction or too far?

well its difficult to get wrong but if it does take a sudden turn and doesnt go down into turbo, the manifold is obviously connected to the 4 cylinders of the engine, you dont want to fill up an engine cylinder with it.

But you would have to be very very unlucky/stupid to get that wrong with these turbos

Edited 24 August, 201213 yr by Lofty79

ah an engine cylinder, yes i probably would be stupid to fill my engine up with mr muscle

i presume to reach into the cylinders is a longer route and i would instantly know if the pipe has taken the wrong turn

yes, the hole basically is straight down into turbo, quite frankly id be amazed if you managed to get it to bend around to a cylinder. Its easy buddy fire on, and report back on the guide thread as it lets others know your findings and results. Feel free to add photos that you feel would improve the tutorial in your reply, i have noticed it makes no difference how much info is up there, people still need more.

Hope it works for ya mate (it always does)

Hello, thought i would update this thread on my progress.

Started the job today, taken me around 4 hours and that was including egr removal and cleaning.

Good news is the large improvement with no limp mode (as yet :clap: )

the actuator rod was not seized, however it was only traveling part way,...mostly sticking 3/4 of the travel and felt a little gritty....kept on at it and did free off so that i could push it as far down as it would go and let it spring back. i did notice that i could not really push it all the way to the bottom by hand "force from the spring" and had to use an extension

1st question are these generally hard to push by hand?

2nd i am still unsure how these car's are supposed to drive as i had this fault since getting the car, before 2nd gear felt very linear and 3rd gear had a better pull but still lascked any sort of good boost.

NOW 2nd is much much better, can instantly feel the turbo kicking in however 3rd feels a bit sloppy no real boost to that gear very very linear again from 1400 rpm to 4000. even if i cruise at say 30mph in 3rd sitting at 1700rpm and plant my foot to the floor it feels the same from the moment i plant my foot until changing into 4th no real surge from the turbo whatsoever feels like a n/a petrol engine....is this normal should you feel the turbo kicking in 3rd gear?

all in all i see a vast improvement in 2nd gear but see no change in 3rd...which i thought is supposed to be a bit more torquey.

one other thing to add is, the engine feels very shuddery (if that makes sense) when accelerating hard feels very gritty if you know what i mean....as if the engine does not like going above 2500rpm

Would like to thank lofty for the help

Edited 25 August, 201213 yr by r4c

Wonder if your dual mass flywheel is away too then, shuddery under hard acceleration can sometimes be that, but let it develop. Glad limp is away though mate, always nice to hear of improvements. Might be worth seeing if a new Maf sensor would help too

i would not say its dmf shuddery it more of a gritty type feel to the engine... cant think of a word to explain it. tick over is fine with no real vibration through the clutch

how should 3rd gear perform....think i need to see if there is any fault codes logged.

Mine doesn't surge in 3rd 4th or 5th but pulls well and and progressively. Are you normally a petrol driver, as it may just be that these are very agricultural engines. If ever you head up perth way and want me to have a wee look/listen/drive let me know via pm and ill glay drive through to perth

Could be, first time owning a diesel. just thought there was such a big difference between 2nd and 3rd.

I will keep you in mid lofty i regularily drive through perth when heading to elgin

ill pm you my mobile mate im into perth alot. ill do that later.

I can also scan for codes for you too