Hi people, I've recently fitted a set of bbs rs11 18" alloys off of an Audi tt. All is good except one thing.

I'm getting a minor amount of rubbing on the rear but only on n/s/r (passenger) when going over bigger bumps. This is happening with just me in the car and worse with passengers.

Looking at the tyre side wall gap to the wheel arch you can see its 2-4 mm closer on the n/s/r. Is the any way of adjusting this?

Cheers.

There is some slight adjustment but only proper way is to get it onto a 4 wheel alignment machine with somebody that knows what there doing and line it properly,

Its a fixed beam on mk1 octavias so its a matter of moving the hole beam over slightly, might also be worth checking rear beam bushs aswell to make sure there okay

I'll get it up on a ramp at work on sat morning and have a spy. We have tracking gauges that measure rear tracking then you put them on the front and do the front tracking with the rear figures in mind.

I've never used it to adjust rear tracking at all. Might give our body shop a ring see if it's something they can do.

Aha u too

Maybe its more octys than we think

Ive got a thread somewhere about offset axles

Mine needs to go over towards the drivers about 3mm :(

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/246659-rear-axle-is-offset/page__fromsearch__1

I dont know if octavias are same but i know old corsas had offset rear axles and ppl had trouble with one wheel rubbing when lowered

I beleve the mk2 golfs had offset rear ends

Mines just bugs me as i now know its uneven lol

I'm with Lloyd on this, just knowing its there drives you mad! Lol.

Ssssssh dont get put in my bracket

Im very odd, And their on to me :p

Edited 31 August, 201213 yr by Lloyd55vrs

Is there any rear camber adjustment on the standard back axle?

Is there any rear camber adjustment on the standard back axle?

No, nor any castor adjustment (cos trailing beams don't have castor). They also don't have toe adjustment.

You can buy wedged shims for the stub axles if you know exactly what camber and toe you both have and want.

I'm gonna have to baseball bat and heat gun the wheel arches to get them wheels to stop rubbing then lol.

You'd not be the first person to have rolled and/or pulled the rear arches on a Skoda.

Gonna have home Bodge it though.

Dont forge sell a arch rolling tool ?

Proberbly but I don't want to fork out it.

I fitted my Track Audi TT rims yesterday, and after raising the rear ride height 3 times, the n/s still rubs on the arch slightly, seems to do it on bumps in the road, or under light acceleration.

When accelerating hard it seems to be ok or when cornering (although not tried really pushing it yet).

Yesterday it was rubbing pretty bad as in less than 8 miles of very minor scuffing of the edge of the sidewall it has blistered and cracked the paint on the edge of the arch.

I am thinking tomorrow i'm going to have to get a heat gun on the arch and try and pull it out by hand a little, as I don't want it rubbing all day at castle combe on saturday, and cutting into my R888, i'm not sure a n/s/r tyre blowout at combe is a good thing lol.

Seems its the rear passenger side that sits out

I'll get beam knocked over when have bushes done

Hi people, I've recently fitted a set of bbs rs11 18" alloys off of an Audi tt. All is good except one thing.

I'm getting a minor amount of rubbing on the rear but only on n/s/r (passenger) when going over bigger bumps. This is happening with just me in the car and worse with passengers.

Looking at the tyre side wall gap to the wheel arch you can see its 2-4 mm closer on the n/s/r. Is the any way of adjusting this?

Cheers.

out of interest are tey reps or genuine alloys?

Curious as to how the rear beam can be knocked over

Curious as to how the rear beam can be knocked over

yes having taken several off, and replaced beam bushes before, they seem to go either on or off, there seems little to no room for movement. I would say only way would be stub axle shims, or roll the arches to solve.

Curious as to how the rear beam can be knocked over

There's slight play in the main pivot brackets that bolt to the body. You'll want new beam bushes fitting before you adjust the bracket positions though, to make sure the beam is sitting perfectly in the brackets.

Apparently there is a tad room for adjustment ?

You loosen the iirc 8 bolts

After that its voodoo

Im imagining slightly enlongated holes or such

Alot of mk4 boys do it

And Gee has also done his

U just have to make sure its checked so no crabbing

Ive also been told alot is down to harder right handers so the bush that side gets more squished ??

There's slight play in the main pivot brackets that bolt to the body. You'll want new beam bushes fitting before you adjust the bracket positions though, to make sure the beam is sitting perfectly in the brackets.

its def fractinal, as the last one i did with bushes didnt seem to go anywhere other than in

I did my beam bushes last week and there is very little room for adjustment on the brackets, maybe 2-3mm either way and that's being liberal.

Elongating holes isn't something I'd do

Edited 6 December, 201213 yr by Frisco