^^ Excellent result for you.

Now go and enjoy them

^^ Excellent result for you.

Now go and enjoy them

Well I'm happy - and the missus seems most happy (she wasn't fussed at first coz we went out in daylight. Just come back in the dark and she now understands)

Just got to get the sidelights de-yellowed now, and maybe some new main beams as country lanes now have this nice white bottom half and yellow top half .

Beams were alligned by skoda last month but as I've had the headlights out etc I'm gonna get em re-done. Once I've finished changing bits as above of course!

Yes indeed. I am looking at replacing the heads in mine as well.

^^ Excellent result for you.

Now go and enjoy them

It also been proved to work on Golfs(2012), Scirrocos(some 2011 and 2012)

Just got to get the sidelights de-yellowed now,

Fizzmo w5w LEDs, (6000kelvin) with a couple of resistors (they sell those too). Pack of 10, also did the puddle lights and the interior with the remainder.

and maybe some new main beams as country lanes now have this nice white bottom half and yellow top half .

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/250281-hid-on-main-beam/page__hl__+hid%20+main%20+beam#entry2941442

-or-

I've been using some Ring +120% Xenon in both main and dipped. Worked very well in the main beam.

Cheera - seen fizzmo on another thread and am gonna try them. Want a road legal halogen fitting for the mains - maybe a halfords laser blue or similar.

Hmmm not sure what to do now. Will see how much things are and how quickly I can get them delivered and make a decision on that. Don't fancy playing the Hokey Cokey with sidelight bulbs given how much of a PITA they are to get out......

Yep, I have some BlueVisions for the sides and mains, just need to get round to fitting them.........

My Fizzmos have been fine, no issues at all, where-ever they've been fitted. (Also fitted into the back of my mum's Toymota Previa to help with wheelchair access) And they've been fitted for about three months now. With the in-line resistors you take out the original w5w (I used some needle-nosed pliers for this - and TBH you'll be doing this whatever you end up going with) plug the resistors in place of the w5w and the LED on the other end, et voila! If you want to change them, they're a darn-sight easier to remove than the OEM. The only think to check before you put it all back together, is that it works, as the LEDs will only work one way round.

10 minutes, including making the tea ;) That's the beauty of the Octavia, headlights out, easy job.

_{I have had to remove my HIDs , every time I went to full beam the HIDs went out, mind you you pay for what you buy cheap ones from ebay London colour}

_{Will order some night breakers instead, because going back to normal bulbs its dark out there}

My 'cheap one's from Londoncolour work fine, as do many others.

Are you sure it was coded correctly?

Ah - that must be some cut down version of a CECM then!

_{I have had to remove my HIDs , every time I went to full beam the HIDs went out, mind you you pay for what you buy cheap ones from ebay London colour}

_{Will order some night breakers instead, because going back to normal bulbs its dark out there}

That's what mine did when I just installed them, but I have taken them out until I see Mike in couple of weeks to code them. Best remember to bring the bulbs too!

Might be useful lol! See you on the 30th

Mike

Might put them in the glove box while I remember

If anyone gets HIDs working properly in a classic tdi IE they dont turn off when going to full beam, please let me know, funny though SWMBO has the same ones in her superb and they work fine???

Edited 12 December, 201213 yr by skippy41

see people are still having loads of problems here still,be careful as it will damage your controller

see people are still having loads of problems here still,be careful as it will damage your controller

How can it damage your controller?

as far as I am aware it is the Canbus ones that can do the damage.

How can it damage your controller?

as far as I am aware it is the Canbus ones that can do the damage.

so your telling me fitting them and selecting high beam which then takes out the low beam which is what people are experiencing is normal and wont do no damage,funny how it looks like your the only person that has these working on 12 model cars,maybe yours is special been irish and us brits get the crap model that these wont work on

so your telling me fitting them and selecting high beam which then takes out the low beam which is what people are experiencing is normal and wont do no damage,funny how it looks like your the only person that has these working on 12 model cars,maybe yours is special been irish and us brits get the crap model that these wont work on

No.

I am not telling anyone what will or will not work.

I simply asked you a question.

And to answer your second query.

I am not the only one to get them working, and yes, the Irish model is better spec than the UK one

in what way is it better spec

in what way is it better spec

That is a case for a different thread, but I am sure if you look it up we get a lot more features in our ones that you have to pay for.

I put in a set of non-CANBus HID at the weekend. Tried them before coding (just out of interest). They came on as LH/CH no problem, as soon as I started the engine they flickered and I got the warning. 2 minutes of VCDS, and all is good

What I can't understand, from what else has been said, regardless of HID or not, and certainly in the Octavia, the dip stays on with the main. So I can't see why the dip would be go off with the main. (HID draws less out of the system than halogen, so there should be plenty of juice to feed both)

However, in the instructions for mine, it does show a wiring diagram with a connection to the battery (mine were a direct-fit replacement). Could this be of use? (I'll try and scan the instructions in if that helps.) I assume at this point, the original electrics act more as a relay.

Canbus system -- only explanation it can be. Current draw may be less with HID, perhaps that's what's making the whole system act different from normal setup. As per previous posts I've made, a recent failed battery, and lowering voltage actually caused my hight beam headlights to have a mind of their own and start coming on and going off at will without anyone in the car.

Like when you replace the brake-light with the wrong one (21/5w instead of 21/4w).....everything works but you still get an error? CANBus is not looking for on or off, but a specific resistance / current draw. If the hid dip+main is different to be expected, CANBus could throw a wobbly. When the dip goes off, does the warning light come on?

.....actually caused my hight beam headlights to have a mind of their own and start coming on and going off at will without anyone in the car.

Haunted CANBus ;)

Like when you replace the brake-light with the wrong one (21/5w instead of 21/4w).....everything works but you still get an error? CANBus is not looking for on or off, but a specific resistance / current draw. If the hid dip+main is different to be expected, CANBus could throw a wobbly.

When the dip goes off, does the warning light come on?

Yes mine did

Haunted CANBus ;)

I put in a set of non-CANBus HID at the weekend. Tried them before coding (just out of interest). They came on as LH/CH no problem, as soon as I started the engine they flickered and I got the warning. 2 minutes of VCDS, and all is good

What I can't understand, from what else has been said, regardless of HID or not, and certainly in the Octavia, the dip stays on with the main. So I can't see why the dip would be go off with the main. (HID draws less out of the system than halogen, so there should be plenty of juice to feed both)

However, in the instructions for mine, it does show a wiring diagram with a connection to the battery (mine were a direct-fit replacement). Could this be of use? (I'll try and scan the instructions in if that helps.) I assume at this point, the original electrics act more as a relay.

That is what London colour suggested I do with mine but at a small cost for the relays