Hello all,

Looking for opinions on the following problem,

Skoda Felicia - 1.9 D - 1998 - 5 door hatchback.

Gears,

When i push it into 5th it wont stay in, keeps slipping straight out, when pushed into 5th and driving, there is a 'whirring' noise from the gears.

Wont go into to second for the most part, when it does it drives absolutley fine.

When putting it into reverse, the clutch pedal is barley off the floor when it engages quite forcefully.

Is the gearbox for scrap or is the clutch out of alignment (if thats the right phrase to use?)

Dont want to invest in a new box if i dont have to, i was looking to do an oil change on the box before i do anything but i feel it will need more work than this.

Any advice please.

Edited 16 October, 201213 yr by Uncorruptable

This sounds like 2 separate problems I think:-

1. Engagement issues suggest the clutch needs adjusting (cable) or bleeding/new slave cylinder (hydraulic).
   
2. Jumping out of gear suggests worn synchromesh on that ratio. If you can find a proper workshop manual, it may tell you how to rebuild the box.
   

An oil change won't make much difference.

The clutch is cable, not hydraulic. Check the adjustment - it's easily done and removes a possible issue.

A worn synchro won't cause an engaged gear to pop out. Given the other comments, I would check the "5th gear nut come loose" issue - again, easily fixed, a common issue, and if the gears are moving that may explain it popping out of gear.

From what you say, it sounds like the clutch may be on the way out, but check the adjustment first, and the 5th gear nuts second (you'll end up changing the oil while doing that anyway).

^ +1 with djaychela. A while back I had the dreaded 5th gear nut issue and carried out a clutch adjustment at the same time. Job done in that case

Good morning gents,

Thank you for the guidance, an adjustment of the clutch cable i think i could handle, the DREADED 5th gear nut is out of my league (or i think it is)

How would i go about repairing the 5th gear nut coming loose?

I never really gave an intro,

Living in Ireland, have had 7 cars in my ownership since began driving, all of which were needing constant attention, i have learned to look after some of which myself over time, exhaust repairs & changes, basic servicing in oil filters, air filters, plugs, plug leads, fluid levels, fuses, bulbs, oil change on gearbox, windows & doors, rad hoses etc etc etc....

I have never actually adjusted a clutch cable but i am fairly good at repairing 'stuff'.

If you can offer guidance on what is entailed in the adjustment & 5th nut repair please do, Robk1, did you write it up in a post?

Edited 17 October, 201213 yr by Uncorruptable

djay - I've driven vehicles (not Skodas) with worn synchros, and "jumping out of gear" was the first symptom to show itself.

unco... - Search this forum for "5th gear nut"; it's a common problem.

Clutch cable adjustment - Did you ever adjust a Bowden cable for brakes or gears on a pushbike or motorbike? If so, then a clutch cable adjustment is the same principle.

Yes i have, long before owning a car i had created many hydrid/mongrel pushbikes & still am tasked with regularley fixing my young lads bike.

So i assume i am to simply re tension the clutch cable so it is biting from the point of the pedal being depressed, yes?

The 5th gear nut is actually easier than it sounds.

The most awkward bit is having to support the engine, loosen the gearbox mount and dropping it down a bit.

The rest is just a case of draining the oil, removing the gearbox end cover (big allen keys from memory), removing the old gear nuts (22mm I think), re-fitting the new nuts, tapering one of the nut edges into the key to stop them rotating and then re-fitting everything in reverse order and refilling the gearbox with some fresh oil.

The nuts are only a few quid from the dealers.

Phil

Thanks for the pointers, why does the engine need to be supported? i had in my head the gearbox needed supporting for when you undid the bolts holding it on?

I would like to give it a go but have the feeling i would not be able to complete & at least the way it is i can drive it to my mechanic.

I think i will adjust the clutch, drive it to my man & depart the information about the 5th gear nut to him.

Thanks everyone.

Avoid using 5th gear if possible until you know for sure if it is the 5th gear retaining nut.

If you carry on using 5th and it is the nut there is a danger of it coming loose and the gearbox will eat itself!

When i mentioned supporting the engine I did actually mean the gearbox or the gearbox side of the engine whichever is easiest to get your jack under or if you are using an engine hoist the supporting point in on the engine block.

Phil

Right, so jack under gearbox that will be dismounted, work on it from top through bonnet, once free i am looking at the gearbox from the front of the car for a 22mm nut yes?

Can anyone send me a picture of where i am looking to replace?

Jeck the car up, remove passenger side wheel, drain gearbox oil, support gearbox, undo gearbox mount under bonnet, lower gearbox down.

The access is then on the end of the gearbox in the passenger side wheel arch. You remove the end plate and the 2 nuts are behind there.

Hope that helps.

Phil

Thanks for the help, going by this pic, to adjust the clutch i am thinking i need undo the nut on the end first, but i dont see where there is a cable here?

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/124256-buying-skoda-felicia/#entry1635322

The cable is the bit that the nut is on the end of. It's got a threaded steel section for the nut and stop, after that it's cable (inside the black rubber bellows).

adjusted it last night as much as it ould be, a little tricky getting into second but it goes in now, no whining when pushed into 5th anymore but still pops out, reverse is engaging as normal, i am happier now and will arrange today to have my mechanic look at the 5th gear nut.

Does it sound like a new clutch mind you as it is still tricky getting into second?

What is 2nd like to engage without the engine running?

Phil

No problem at all, i think your prompt has just annswered the question in my head for me, the clutch is grand i am now thinking.

That does suggest a clutch problem then if it goes in fine without the engine running.

It can reach a point where you just can't adjust the clutch cable anymore.

Might be worth seeing what the garage make of it . Might be that you haven't quite got the adjustment right.

Phil

It is adjusted to the most it can go now, it has made it easier to go into gear & elimintaed the whining noise, maybe past it life then yes?

will a clutch off a petrol car do in place of it?

It is adjusted to the most it can go now, it has made it easier to go into gear & elimintaed the whining noise, maybe past it life then yes?

Not necessarily; the stranded cable inside the sheath can stretch. If this happens then you need to adjust it at the pinch bolt to get the full wear out of the friction plate.

That said, persevering too long with a worn friction plate can score the flywheel, so that needs replacing too.

If the car has a solid bodyshell, I'd not fight shy of paying for a new clutch, because that could be written down over maybe 10 years.

going to garage monday, will let you know then, body is fine on it & i love the car, plan to run it until 500,000 on the clock, only 140,000 at the minute so i will have it for some time yet.

Ok, had gears looked at by garage, 5th gear nut had come off, 5th gear cog shredded, linkage 'all over the place'.

linkage redone, 5th gear cog replaced with new one from skoda, driving perfectly now, €280.

Happy enough with that.

Another problem, as you look at the head when bonnet is open you see 4 of these with steel line going into them, one is leaking a small amount of diesel (very small) when running,

What is it & how can i fix it??

Good and bed news then. At least it's sorted now. It must have been loose for a while then and it's damaged the gear. You're lucky you caught it when you did. Could have caused some real damage.

The leak is on the fuel pipe to the injector.

Might just need tightening up.

Phil

Yeah, slack injector(s) or pipe to injector unions are both way more likely than the injector pipes leaking.