love the new formula SRP. As co all in one it is improved. I think your routine is fine. If you're happy with it then stick with it. I wouldn't put a sealant between the SRP and 845. That's a good tried and tested winter combo. You can over complicate things but in my opinion it's best to stick to the basics. If you want to add processes, look at claying the car. There are loads of alternatives to srp. Carlack 68 nano system case is a good one to look at. But it has no swirl filling capability. But it gives a deep clean and provides a good base for wax and sealants. If filling is what you're after look at autobrite cherry glaze.

Thanks on your opinion! I have got clay bars but I didn't proceed to do it before the polish and wax due to it being brand new from factory and hadn't been sat in a port for weeks.. I figured it wouldn't need it, but I would clay every time or every other time applying the polish and wax again just to keep it all extremely clean and contaminant free before putting products on top

I like the new SRP.. easy to apply and even easier to buff if applied correctly and not just pouring it on. I have used megs NXT wax and AG high def wax in the past but 845 really feels and looks the best.

I'll definitely have a look at the Carlack 68. Cheers for your help, much appreciated!

No worries buddy.

Not used 845 before but heard great things about it. Used Colli 476s before and durability was excellent, only out performed by Dodojuice Supernatural Hybrid for me durability wise and Wolf chemical Body Wrap.

You've got a lovely looking car buddy which is IMO the best colour, sure you'll keep it looking tip top.

1. Is it okay to wash and then add an LSP (AGEGP or Collinite 845) missing out the polishing stage?

2. I understand that you should't put a wax (845) on top of a sealant (AGEGP), so, on a car that has had EGP applied, how long should I wait before I can safely apply 845?

3. Does 845 have a `shelf life`?

Many thanks.

Mike.

A pure polish aka paint cleanser is just a conditioner for paint you can apply it as many times as you like or as little as you like i usually do it twice a year, just mind to follow up with a sealant or wax.

You can apply 845 to EGP straight away if you like, i have spoke to many people who use this combo and it holds up well.

Find something you like and stick with it.

No worries buddy.

Not used 845 before but heard great things about it. Used Colli 476s before and durability was excellent, only out performed by Dodojuice Supernatural Hybrid for me durability wise and Wolf chemical Body Wrap.

You've got a lovely looking car buddy which is IMO the best colour, sure you'll keep it looking tip top.

If dodo juice is out performing 476s on durabilty then its not been applied right, infact i would put my reputation on the line and say 476s is far better than body wrap.... its also less fussy to apply that body wrap.

I've used collinite 476s, fk1000p and dodo juice supernatural hybrid. All applied with carlack 68 underneath and found that supernatural lasted the best. I tend not to tell lies or make things up. It's not in my nature.

Body wrap is ridiculously easy to apply! But you can't do it in moist conditions, has to be a dry day. So I guess you have to wait for the right conditions. But it is far easier than applying a paste wax. The gloss levels aren't as good as collinite though

Body wrap on my Volvo 11 weeks in and 5000 miles.

Only had the SNH on the octavia for a few weeks, but will keep you updated on how it is lasting.

Don't mean to be snappy. But I don't read things off Detailing World and prophesize it myself, I can only comment on what i have used and how I find them. As you probably know, it's all opinion and subjective.

These products are definately not the best or most durable in the world, but they are the most durable I've used, including collinite 476s. And I'm all over applying wax. Like a tramp on chips!

Edited 2 January, 201313 yr by Hunty278

Fab looking cars. Love the number plate on the Volvo too.

One question...what exactly IS `Body Wrap`? Liquid? Wax? Plastic Sheeting? No idea.

Read here:

http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/wolfs-chemicals-nano-paint-sealant.html

Its better than most if you want durability (Apply and leave)

Personally I enjoy the job of waxing and buffing on a regular basis

This stuff is ideal if you want to apply and forget it

Everyone to their own

Thanks Mike.

Yeah, it's basically a water based liquid. I apply by cutting a microfiber cloth into smaller piece. About 4inch by 3. Apply a few drops and rub over nice and thin. The car will need a de-tar, claying and a full IPA wipe down with the IPA diluted with filtered water about 40 ml IPA to 60 ml water. The paint needs to be squeaky clean. But I do that for all in ones and wax. Gives you more life from your chosen protection.

Edited 2 January, 201313 yr by Hunty278

Thanks for that Chris and Hunty.

Alot of work then!

As you say Chris...each to his own, but whenever I hear `Body Wrap` in the future, I'll know what it is.

Regards.

Mike.

Nice cars hunty i had a silver mk1 vrs and loved the shine when it was polished. I haven't seen many silver ones must be quite rare, whereas they were very common in the Mk1's.

I have a bit of a waxing noob question. In the photo's you have posted the beading on the surface is iregular mixed sizes i.e. there are some large, some medium and some small. On mine the beading is all very small like beads as if they are magnetically repulsive to each other and dont seam to join up. Any idea why this is? something to do with surface tension, the fact that min is brand new paint and its first application of wax or something else? should it collect in larger pools i have heard of term sheeting so im wondering if the idea is to get all the beads to join together and run off the car in one go to leave no water residue when it drys etc. Mine was just simple AG SRP followed by the Collinite 845. Im wondering if i should get some clay and get the dealer applied GaurdX removed maybe this is whats doing it. Im worried i will **** up the cars already good finish by being hand fisted with the clay though.

Its just characteristics of different wax's and sealants. The body wrap on the Volvo is starting to lose its beading slightl as contaminants start to bond to it and it starts to wear. Washing doesnt remove everything unfortunately. Some wax's sheet better than others. The water runs ofd a panel at different angles depending on how hydrophobic it is (how much it repels water). If it is really hydrophobic water will not sit well on the paint, it will run off the panel easier. If your beading is tight then that is a good thing. When there is no beading at all then its gone.

I'm not a chemist but thats my understanding of it. HTH

Its just characteristics of different wax's and sealants. The body wrap on the Volvo is starting to lose its beading slightl as contaminants start to bond to it and it starts to wear. Washing doesnt remove everything unfortunately. Some wax's sheet better than others. The water runs ofd a panel at different angles depending on how hydrophobic it is (how much it repels water). If it is really hydrophobic water will not sit well on the paint, it will run off the panel easier. If your beading is tight then that is a good thing. When there is no beading at all then its gone.

I'm not a chemist but thats my understanding of it. HTH

Ah ok im getting it back to front then wanting to get them to join up. lol That explains it then Mine when i first did it was like someone had thrown thousands of tiny ball bearings over the car. Now its still beading but looks more like yours in the photo mixture of bead sizes and even some puddles under the spoiler. all though not as clean as yours i haven't washed it last couple of weekends due to the bloody rain.

As said.....the beading is failing on the Volvo and the LSP needs reapplying

The secret to longlivity/durability is as much about the preparation as the LSP

Also sealers tend to sheet rather than bead

I understand that AutoGlym's SRP and EGP will leave difficult to remove white marks on plastic and rubber trim. Is that also the case with Coll` 845?

Many thanks.

Mike.

I understand that AutoGlym's SRP and EGP will leave difficult to remove white marks on plastic and rubber trim. Is that also the case with Coll` 845?

Many thanks.

Mike.

Don't have much black trim on the vrs apart from the door rubbers, wing mirror mounting boss oh and satnav aerial. Can't say i noticed any residue from the 845 and i used way to much as previously discussed. Although thats said i have AG rubber and vinyl care which i use to keep them in good nick and this sorts out any marks. Its a spray applicator though so i have to spray it onto a pad then work it neatly into the trim taking care not to get any on the freshly waxed surfaces.

Not much on the Superb either (Aerial, 4 mudflaps, each side of the windscreen and the top of the rear window) but last time I used the AG stuff I masked off...which I found a right pain! So, you are saying that as far as you know 845 wont leave any residue and the AG Rubber and Vinyl Care will remove any marks left by the SRP and EGP?

Not much on the Superb either (Aerial, 4 mudflaps, each side of the windscreen and the top of the rear window) but last time I used the AG stuff I masked off...which I found a right pain! So, you are saying that as far as you know 845 wont leave any residue and the AG Rubber and Vinyl Care will remove any marks left by the SRP and EGP?

As far as i can remember, I think there has since been a better product by AG for getting marks off black trim and protecting it but i still have half a bottle of the Rubber and Vinyl care stuff and im loathed to get anymore until its run out as its been very good for me in the past. I even used it on the folding roof of my VW Golf Cabriolet and it stopped it getting bleached from the sun and kept it soft and shiny. Its very versatile i have even used it on the car interiors before although i use something else now as it smells nice lol.

Ace stuff.

Clean with IPA and then use this:

http://www.shinearama.co.uk/product.php?id=AUT-REVIVE-250

OR

Permanent restore with this:

http://www.shinearama.co.uk/product.php?id=GTE-C4-15