Hi all,

My 2009 140 TDI seems to be suffering from rough idle (more on warm engine) and I also have some 'glitches' around the mid to late 2750 rpm mark.

I dont have any starting or other running issues and the car is fully main dealer serviced.

Having done a bit of digging the EGR valve and Inlet manifold clean seem to be a good starter.

Has anyone experienced the removal of the valve and manifold to offer any care points?

Does anyone know if there there are any gaskets on either part that I should replace after removal?

And the EGR valve, will carb cleaner shift everything or has anyone tried to soak the unit in Gunk?

Same for the inlet manifold, does this need soaking or is it an easy clean?

Thanks for any advice!

Steve

switch cleaner worked very well, but bear in mind the gearing is in a sealed oil bath for a reason.

The inlet manifold could be soaked, but for the EGR and anti shudder I'd use spray cleaner and an old toothbrush carefully if it was me doing it.

switch cleaner worked very well, but bear in mind the gearing is in a sealed oil bath for a reason.

The inlet manifold could be soaked, but for the EGR and anti shudder I'd use spray cleaner and an old toothbrush carefully if it was me doing it.

Cheers for the advice, did you re-use gaskets?

Cheers for the advice, did you re-use gaskets?

Some yes, but I'd replace the EGR to EGR intake pipe gasket.

The others are fine as long as you're careful, so if you think there is any chance you might damage them, then get the spares.

For the intake manifold to the head, certainly get a new one, it's not cheap, but it's better than an intake leak and they are metal, crush type gaskets.

Edited 10 December, 201213 yr by cheezemonkhai

I know that if the manifold etc is gummed a clean will be good, but just out of interest, my 2.0 PD Leon has had a lumpy idle during warm up and an occaisional flat spot since I had it (2008, 19k miles) which have both vanished after a engine ECU software upgrade- at over 70k miles.

I know that if the manifold etc is gummed a clean will be good, but just out of interest, my 2.0 PD Leon has had a lumpy idle during warm up and an occaisional flat spot since I had it (2008, 19k miles) which have both vanished after a engine ECU software upgrade- at over 70k miles.

That's quite interesting cjb!

I seem to have lumpy idle when warm and a flat kind of missing spot around the 2800/2900rpm mark! The flat spot feels like the engine immediately cuts for a fraction of a second and then takes off, more noticeable in 6th when keeping a constant speen then doing a sudding acceleration.

Doesn't happen all the time either?

The idle issue is almost like an air leak on the inlet side again on average it's just a slight lumpy feel.

Thanks also cheezemonkhai I'll investigate the costs but will probably get them as sound advice!

That's quite interesting cjb!

I seem to have lumpy idle when warm and a flat kind of missing spot around the 2800/2900rpm mark! The flat spot feels like the engine immediately cuts for a fraction of a second and then takes off, more noticeable in 6th when keeping a constant speen then doing a sudding acceleration.

Doesn't happen all the time either?

The idle issue is almost like an air leak on the inlet side again on average it's just a slight lumpy feel.

Thanks also cheezemonkhai I'll investigate the costs but will probably get them as sound advice!

Mine was always Ok when warm or cold, but consistently lumpy while warming. On a cold day, start from cold, drive 1/2 mile, wait at traffic lights, it would idle lumpy if in N (it's DSG: putting it in D would smooth it out). Drive another mile or so it would be fine.

I removed my EGR with a Darkside EGR delete kit, it drives great but when it's really cold the car is very lumpy for the first few minutes.

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I have gone over to the Darkside as well and it completely cured any lumpiness.

I also noticed the exhaust seems to produce less condensation or smoke when starting from cold in sub zero temps.

I have gone over to the Darkside as well and it completely cured any lumpiness.

I also noticed the exhaust seems to produce less condensation or smoke when starting from cold in sub zero temps.

Andy, did you get rid of the cooler aswell? I ditched the cooler and knocked out the CAT all in the same visit (to garage)

I find the car revs up lovely now. The Tacho flies around.

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EGR cooler is still on, I removed the pipe going from cooler to EGR valve and blanked off at the cooler.

Still haven't got round to removing the cooler yet as I can't be bothered dropping the coolant to do all the plumbing.

I had to, the cooler was leaking.

The Darkside kit is a no brainer for anyone having EGR problems. The car even smokes a lot less.

I see that darkside have a few delete kits, mines a 2.0 8v 140 which doesnt seem to be listed?

k.young was it a long job to do?

I didn't do it myself. My mate/mechanic said it was a bit tricky but as I pointed out, that included removing the cooler aswell.

I see that darkside have a few delete kits, mines a 2.0 8v 140 which doesnt seem to be listed?

k.young was it a long job to do?

I would be very surprised if yours is 8v, it was usually only the Scout that got the 2.0 8v engine. If your engine number begins "BKD" its a 16 valve.

I would be very surprised if yours is 8v, it was usually only the Scout that got the 2.0 8v engine. If your engine number begins "BKD" its a 16 valve.

Yep just checked and the engine number is BKD...thanks for the heads up!

I noticed today that at around 2750rpm randomly there is definately a glitch point but im struggling to work out if thats an EGR symptom?

I know theres an anti shudder feature and wonder if its a simple case of it being clogged up?

I think the anti shudder valve is there to allow the engine to stop in a dignified manner and not much else.

I changed a knackered ASV on my brother's BKD engine along with cleaning out the inlet manifold and EGR valve - all gunged up beyond belief. The ASV open failure meant the engine stopped with a thump like when you stall a derv. We also changed the MAF and MAP sensors while we were there, I believe it has just passed 165,000 miles now and is still doing rather well.

I would be very surprised if yours is 8v, it was usually only the Scout that got the 2.0 8v engine. If your engine number begins "BKD" its a 16 valve.

nick74, thought id just report back, have checked all my documents and on many sites and my BKD is definitely coming up as an 8v and not 16v?

nick74, thought id just report back, have checked all my documents and on many sites and my BKD is definitely coming up as an 8v and not 16v?

The BKD is definitely a 16 valve engine. The Elegance 2.0 TDi PD was only ever available as 16v.

Confirmation that the BKD is definitely a 16v unit. I have the Darkside EGR bypass fitted as well.

Highly recommended and echo what's been said about it already.