Hello and Greetings to everyone!

How can I check a fuel pressure regulator if it works?

My Fely is running rough when is warm (after coolant is getting 90*C) and car consumption is 16 liters for 100km (18mpg I think)..

I've changed:

- spark plugs

- fuel filter

- air filter

- ignition coil pack

- I checked injectors for any leaks and those are OK.

After I connect to VAG-Com, I get one error:

VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-S

Control Module Part Number: 047 906 030 N

Component and/or Version: SIMOS 2P 7014

Software Coding: 00000

Work Shop Code: WSC 00000

1 Fault Found:

00537 - Lambda (Oxygen Sensor) Regulation

19-00 - Lower Limit

On Ross-Tech website I found this:

• Check/Replace Activated Charcoal Filter Solenoid Valve 1 (N80)
  
• Check/Replace/Clean Injector(s)
  
• Check Fuel Pressure Regulator
  

Sorry for my bad English. Thanks in advice!

Edited 24 December, 201213 yr by XphaN

Hello and welcome, there isn't much you can do to check the fuel pressure regulator without some special equipment and tools. It's also very unlikely to be the problem.

it's more likely to be a faulty injector or maybe the lambda probe is not reading correctly.

I would start simple first. Clean all injectors and replace O-rings.

If that's not enough, we'll tell you what's next.

How can I clean injectors? I put some time ago a bottle of fuel injector cleaner in fuel tank.

I forgot to say that after the engine is warm, engine sometimes get some misfires in air filter after I press acceleration pedal.

Someone told me to check inlet manifold gasket

Edited 24 December, 201213 yr by XphaN

There is a cheap, DIY method, and there is a good method

The cheap one is shown in the video embedded below.

The good method is to go to a Skoda service with your car. They will hook your injectors to a special injectors cleaning machine, start the engine and let it run for 10-15 minutes. That machine will also check for pressure leaks, bad injectors, bad regulator, O-rings, etc. I highly recommend this method.

I should also check for vacuum leaks (gaskets, hoses) because any air not metered will raise fuel consumption to the roof .While you do that, you could clean the throttle body too.

Edited 25 December, 201213 yr by adurer

Throttle body and MAP sensor was cleaned by me twice, last time was two weeks ago. The throttle body gasket was fine. Will check now the inlet manifold gasket.

After that I will try to measure lambda sensor voltage. Someone told me that the value must be between 200-800mV. And the resistor 200Ohm

After that I will check clearance valves for incorrect distances.

Thank you and Merry Christmas!

Edited 25 December, 201213 yr by XphaN

In VAG-Com what group is for Lambda Sensor? Can I check the voltage from from it?

It looks like you have your own solutions and don't need any advice because "someone" told you so...

Good luck reducing that huge consumption by adjusting valve clearance.

You are on your own from now on.

200mv to 800mv is roughly the right voltage range yes... You need to examine group 1 in the measuring blocks to see the lambda voltage, it should cycle high and low approx once every 2 seconds.

offtopic: Sorry adurer, if I did not need help, I do not ask here.

ON:

Injectors are ok, tested yesterday

I measured lambda sonde last night and I got following values:

At 1000rpm with engine cold: 0.12-0.19V

At 800rpm with engine warm: 0.78V

At 3000rpm with engine warm: 0.71V

Warming circuit: 13.4V

It's this ok?

Another question: in VAG-Com at group 007 for what are those values? (ex: Lambda Factor 1.07 , Lambda Factor 1.00)

Edited 26 December, 201213 yr by XphaN

check the inlet manifold gasket by spraying where it joins the cyl head with WD40 or similar while the engine is idling, if the rpm's lift up there is a leak there and the gasket usually fails on the outermost pair.

lambda readings, the lower the voltage = leaner, http://www.lambdapower.co.uk/TechNotes/Tech-4.asp

you could have a faulty lambda but I would suspect the coolant temp sender, watch its output in measuring blocks to check its reading correctly

don't worry about adurer he has more chips on his shoulder than macdonalds.

group 7 is the data the ecu uses for scaling, its like a correction factor based on lambda, if you reset the basic settings in channel 0 these will reset back to 0. these values should not affect the fueling enough to throw up this fault.

if you are getting a contstant 0.7v then the engine is running rich constantly.. normally it will switch from high to low (0.7v - 0.1v) every 2 seconds as the closed loop system cycles over the rich/lean point based on the sensor input...

what would be really handy is if you could give use the binary (ones and zeros) readout from the 4th window in group 1 measuring block,

While not liking anyone trying to step on my toes, you forgot mentioning those dozens of times I came up very quickly with pieces of information nobody had or cared to share (illustrations, PDFs, videos, links, software, or simply tips not found in any manual). But you can't admit that because I'm Polish, or better said non-British. Not that I care, we are a proud people. You can instead disregard royally your fellows intrusions where their business doesn't belong, do you?

Many times I' read on this section how people should thank and be grateful for helping. Did I roll over for getting only twice 'thank you'? No, because this forum is missing a very important rule: it should be mandatory for every topic initiator to resume his final findings and solution, so that all members learn something. That rule should have 2 steps: warning by email then ban.

Merry Xmas to you too.

Edited 26 December, 201213 yr by adurer

are you trying to call me a racist? you are not helping yourself here to be honest, you are heading for trouble if you carry on like that

nobody cares what country you come from, you need to chill yourself out squire

^ Agreed Tom & I place no direct relevance or judgement in respect of the country of origin. What counts is the consistency of approach, a genuine effort to help/advise and common courtesy/respect shown in the way fellow members are addressed. Threads are regrettably soured by the absence of one or more of the aforementioned qualities.

Merry x-mas guys & lets hope we all have a peaceful new year

check the inlet manifold gasket by spraying where it joins the cyl head with WD40 or similar while the engine is idling, if the rpm's lift up there is a leak there and the gasket usually fails on the outermost pair.

lambda readings, the lower the voltage = leaner, http://www.lambdapow...otes/Tech-4.asp

you could have a faulty lambda but I would suspect the coolant temp sender, watch its output in measuring blocks to check its reading correctly

don't worry about adurer he has more chips on his shoulder than macdonalds.

Thanks. I will check tomorrow. Coolant temp sender is working.. i'm getting correct values in VAG-Com and dashboard.

On topic, post-flames.

It's fairly easy to test the pressure regulator, you'll need a pressure gauge from an industrial pressure/piping type shop, and the pipes to attach it to your fuel line. I did mine easily enough with a simple bourdon tube gauge (with a 0-5bar range), a bit of high pressure fuel pipe and a T piece. Easy to plumb in, easy to read. Worked out my pressure regulator was faulty, it was all over the place (this isn't a Skoda one, it was a weber one that was plumbed into the system). Without that I'd never have worked out what was going wrong. As Tom says, it's very unlikely (this is the only one I've ever had fail), but if it does work erratically, then it'll be really hard to diagnose otherwise.

For the record, Jim and Tom are the two people on here whose opinions I would take seriously - both of them know their stuff inside and out. Jim's one liners saved me hours of work when I had the Felicia,and Tom's abilities are beyond doubt. Anyone else... a pinch of salt.

Briskoda isn't about being a white British member only site.

We welcome members from around the world regardless of colour, creed or origins and expect ALL members to be helpful and courteous to others - especially where others might not speak or write in English as a 1st language.

We all have knowledge that may help others but sometimes an issue may have a number of possible solutions. All we can do is offer help and await others to advise which advice helped to help others that may have such an issue in future.

Thank you djaychela.

This forum was so usefully for me many times. respect for everyone who helps newbies like me.

200mv to 800mv is roughly the right voltage range yes... You need to examine group 1 in the measuring blocks to see the lambda voltage, it should cycle high and low approx once every 2 seconds.

The value isn't oscillating. At first engine start the values starts from 0.09V and going up and it remains constantly at 0.7V (rich mixture)

So, the overfuelled engine (when warm) can be from that fuel pressure valve?

I checked spark plugs after the engine is warm and those look black and wet (all of them).

Edited 26 December, 201213 yr by XphaN

No I'm still not convinced its the pressure regulator causing the problems.. By the sounds of it the lambda probe is actually working properly too, there is something subtle going on here regarding closed loop operation, it sounds like it's staying open loop for some reason, there are creation operating conditions which need to be met before the engine will go to closed loop operation such as the throttle must not he open past a certain angle, coolant temperature must be within a certain range. Don't rely on the temperature gauge as a reliable source either, it's possible for the temp gauge to be showing a completely different reading to what the ecu is seeing because there are 2 sensors inside the same unit.

A binary readout from group 1 would be handy for working out if it's working closed loop or not

I'm hope this will help:

00010001 with engine stopped

00010011 with engine running (engine cold <60*C)

00000011 when pressing/mentain pressed the acceleration pedal (engine cold <60*C)

00000111 when pressing acceleration pedal shortly (engine cold <60*C)

00010010 when engine get warmed (70*C) at 800rpm

00000110 when engine it's warm and pressing/mentain pressed the acceleration pedal

00000010 when engine it's warm and I slowly press the acceleration pedal

10011010 when engine is getting running rough

10001010 when engine is getting running rough - pressing/mentain pressed acceleration pedal

In Group 001 box 3 value is 0.00V afte the engine is warm.

With Lambda sonde disconnected i get 1.56V constantly.

what temp is vagcom reporting?

not the dashboard gauge

for it to force itself rich it must be seeing a very cold tempetature or false reading from the lambda so if vagcom is reporting a sensible temperature in measuring blocks then I would try another lambda probe in it.

or the other things could be

blocked airfilter (maybe sucked a plastic bag in?)

blocked up catylist or blocking up exhaust (does it whistle when you try to rev it)

a squashed fuel return pipe from the engine to the tank or faulty reg (which is very very rare)

Briskoda isn't about being a white British member only site.

We welcome members from around the world regardless of colour, creed or origins and expect ALL members to be helpful and courteous to others - especially where others might not speak or write in English as a 1st language.

We all have knowledge that may help others but sometimes an issue may have a number of possible solutions. All we can do is offer help and await others to advise which advice helped to help others that may have such an issue in future.

Absolutely Gadgetman, everyone can bring value to this site regardless of ability & depth of knowledge

what temp is vagcom reporting?

yes.. What he said..

on that binary readout above the very last digit on the right relates to the coolant temperature sensor.. There's something fishy going on with it, there should only be a 1 there if the temperature is over 80 degrees celcius, which is also a condition of closed loop running

it would appear the the throttle body is functioning correctly as well as the lambda probe judging y the various operating conditions you state above.... I think that the coolant sensor is reading incorrectly.