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is my octy vrs the most unreliable?

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love my vrs its an 04 plated car with full main dealer service history(rang the dealers to confirm!) car upon purchase had 82k,bought from dealer (local car sales) , this is what i have changed in 1 year or 8000 miles!!!

4xdiscs and pads (i upgraded to ebcs)

2xfront anti roll bar bushes/brackets

2xfront drop links

1xheadlight(height adjustment motor u/s)

1xheader tank (sensor u/s)

exhaust heatshields fell off!!

engine secondary air system fan u/s

drivers window regulator u/s

central locking u/s in drivers door

2x cracked alloys due to factory weights

factory underseal peeling off/rusty floor

rusty back arches

rusty tailgate under handle

rear wiper motor failed

4xignition coils

now car is taking 4/5 attempts to start i give up! love the car but getting very expensive to run...........

i have to add the car in only 8k has had to FULL services and a dealer timing belt/water pump and serpentine belt.

  • Author

must add the car is rusty all over,engine bay,rear arches tailgate was owned locally(non coast) very dissapointed with the quality,although the car drives great!!!

Sounds like it had a hard life to me,

Mines a 51 with 94 on clock and its never let me down, had the usual discs/pads and bushs but i just upgraded as i changed parts so they last longer,

never had any window or lock issues and cars got no rust as i've found, treated underneath to a coat of paint after i ground out on a massive speed bump but apart from that its fine

  • Author

hi volvomeg ;-) mine must of been owned by the stig or tiff neddell ,wife is sick of me spending money on the octy. lazy starter now,tyres due lol.i determend not to give up on her as i love the car!she has gotta come good????

Sounds like you've got a bit unlucky

I've not got

Sent from my HTC Vision using Tapatalk

I've put a starter motor on mine more because i was stick of it sticking rather than it been worn out

love my vrs its an 04 plated car with full main dealer service history(rang the dealers to confirm!) car upon purchase had 82k,bought from dealer (local car sales) , this is what i have changed in 1 year or 8000 miles!!!

4xdiscs and pads (i upgraded to ebcs)

2xfront anti roll bar bushes/brackets

2xfront drop links

1xheadlight(height adjustment motor u/s)

1xheader tank (sensor u/s)

exhaust heatshields fell off!!

engine secondary air system fan u/s

drivers window regulator u/s

central locking u/s in drivers door

2x cracked alloys due to factory weights

factory underseal peeling off/rusty floor

rusty back arches

rusty tailgate under handle

rear wiper motor failed

4xignition coils

now car is taking 4/5 attempts to start i give up! love the car but getting very expensive to run...........

i have to add the car in only 8k has had to FULL services and a dealer timing belt/water pump and serpentine belt.

Most of what you have listed is wear and tear plus some neglect.

What did you expect from an 8 year old car.

I doubt the wheels have cracked due to Factory Weights and I very much doubt they will still be on the wheels.

Edited by ruffday

  • Author

hi ruffday, i know shes an old car now! but ive ran older cars for 20+ years and never had problems like this!ive had cars with 220,000 miles and not had rust issues,bought a skoda thinking the quality would be better than fords or vauxhalls?unfortunately it is faling apart ;-( downsized from a bmw 5 series and had that car 4 years done 50,000 miles in it and NOTHING went wrong. bmw had 100k when i bought it and sold at 155k!!! i have a 1986 sierra xr4x4 with 92k miles less rust on that than the skoda. and in the 4 years i had the sierra never had half the problems than the skoda. i love my octavia its fast,fairly frugal and really want to keep it,surely she will come good???

It should come good with a bit of TLC.

Like I said most of what you have listed are normal wear and tear items that need replacing.

At that age and mileage you would expect it to need disc's and pads and bushes.

And as for rust ive seen 3 year old Mercs and BMW that are proper rust buckets for thier age as they have been neglected.

I also have had some clean old cars but they were looked after in the 20+ years of driving but I have had some bad ones as well.

A lot could be wear and tear and unfortuanatley accumilation of poor maintaince all rounded up to a costly year...

My VRS is 11 years old and not had that in one year but if you way up that lot over the course of the cars life would not sound so bad.

So Just because a car is 8 years old does not mean you need to spend a whole load of cash on it , if it is regualary maintained which is the key part

Also you should be able to take car to dealers to still claim warranty of the rust, as these cars have a 10 year rust free period. I know few folks have done this.

The rust to me would be the biggest turn off as if yo can't rectify that will become your biggest expense.

What happened to the car in the 7 years before you got it?

I did some work at a site where they had a lot of issues with cars rusting due to the amount of hydrochloric and hydrofluoric acid used on the site (and released into the air).

My 03 plate Octy had a little spec of rust each side of the trim over the number plate and that was it.

  • Author

UPDATE , found the starting fault!! yeeeee haaaaa ;-) it is the camshaft sensor, :giggle: i have just had the timing belt done at pulman vw durham,the poor starting started after the timing belt was change, should i go back to the garage and try and claim the repair costs back??? advice needed?? :drunk: :drunk:

Had my vrs 5 years and only had tyres and brakes,most reliable car i have ever owned and now looking for a newer one

  • Author

im now back in love with the octy! once the cam sensor is fitted and sorted all my little issues,im going to add a few mods :love: :love:

Thats nothing...

58 plate with 30k on the clock bought it Jan 2011 within days it needed....

new xenon headlights

drivers seat cover and foam

switch for heted rear screen

drivers side heated mirror

charcoal canister

N80 purge valve

gearbox rebuilt with new needles and bearings

clutch release bearing

drop links

top mounts

rear wiper motor

Most unreliable car i've owned....

Keeps me busy though lol

  • 2 weeks later...

Bizarre, how is it rusty all over when these cars were galvanised from new? Mine is a 2001 Y plate with no body rust. Do you have pics of the rusty bits?

In my 6 years ownership (remap on for 5)

New ARB bushes

New camshaft sensor (£20)

New Lambda sensor

New coilpacks (under warranty)

Central locking unlock stopped working

Rear wiper motor went

Thats it. Been very good to me!

Edited by Liverpool-Lad

  • 2 months later...
  • Author

just an update on my "unreliable octy :giggle: " was preparing her for mot today,have noticed for a while rear passenger rear wheel always has a lot more brake dust than the other three,pulled that wheel off and sure enough the caliper is siezed solid :wall: have a pro wind back kit,tried for an hour to wind back but solid,whilst trying to unsieze i managed to snap brake pipe :@ :@ gutted i thought a dealer part? but euro car parts had on the shelf :whew: yes collect new pipe and a "new" caliper and ready for the mot tommorrow,very happy with euro car parts ,but after paying £100 for caliper once collected its a recon one NOT ADVERTISED AS RECONDITIONED,and in silver! i "could" of had a genuine skoda NEW one in green delivered from ebay for £104 without the surcharge of £36.... but at least from ecp i can collect now,so mot tommorrow ,fingers crossed eh! then i need 4xnew tyres i have federals on now and to be honest they are SH**E,car spins in the wet in third gear at 70 mph!!! so i need a better tyre without spending too much, im thinking of going for barum bravvius2s as they have a great review and apparently made/designed by continental? fitted for 4 at national tyres for £320 ish ! any other recommendations apprieciated.....

Check mytyres/black circles/Camskill/Costco all of them should beat National Tyres fitted price, ironically you can still have them fitted by National with the first two options, the last option includes fitting and nitrogen inflation but will only sell Michelin (and some Conti's in certain sizes) you need to either be a member or have a member pay for your tyres, no exceptions but they will usually be cheapest on what they sell.

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