Octavia vRS custom BI-XENON projector conversion

[xpower]

You need to trim the inner plastic frame of the headlight (once you take the original projector out you can clearly see) and trim the projector bowl tabs slightly - this is only so you can get it through the hole at the back. If you decided to do a really good job you could bake the headlight, open it up and no cutting of the projector is needed, you could also paint it all black which would look awesome!

As a guide the projectors are here - but they're LHD (these are actually an upgraded version of the E55's)

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/components/projectors/morimoto-evox-r-bi-xenon-projectors-48730.html#.VCEPVGt5mSM

When I say plug and play we able to just pop my headlight out and place it directly in another mk2 FL. only had to be coded for normal xenons (same as when you fit a xenon kit)

[mmafreak]

That link helped. Thanks!

 

After comparing your ^ pics side-by-side, Im more comfortable with areas to trim around the holder. I will go with the D2S setup like you suggested. 

 

All I need is an D2S-AMP adapter to use the stock H7 connector to power up? http://www.theretrofitsource.com/accessories/d2s-amp-reverse-ballasts-adapters-48687.html#.VCT3sZSSxoh

 

Do I need an adapter for the H1 high beam as well or can the bi xenon harness be plugged directly into it?

 

Can I reuse an older 35W ballast, or should I get new D2S bulbs and ballasts? 

Edited 26 September, 2014 by mmafreak

[goshow]

Well I am the buyer who now owns these and as per X-Power's comments; they are outstanding.

Everytime I have taken someone in the car and put the full beams on the passenger reaction is always one of amazement.

I've driven cars with additional spots on the front and these are better.

Without doubt the best mod I have added to my car. I'm just glad I didn't have to do the conversion work myself.

[mmafreak]

Well I am the buyer who now owns these and as per X-Power's comments; they are outstanding.

 

 

You're damn lucky, bruv. Do you still have the lights? If so, pics please! 

[mmafreak]

 

All I need is an D2S-AMP adapter to use the stock H7 connector to power up? http://www.theretrofitsource.com/accessories/d2s-amp-reverse-ballasts-adapters-48687.html#.VCT3sZSSxoh

 

Do I need an adapter for the H1 high beam as well or can the bi xenon harness be plugged directly into it?

 

Can I reuse an older 35W ballast, or should I get new D2S bulbs and ballasts? 

 

I will use an older AMP ballast with an AMP>D2S adapter. Did you use the straight one or the 90 degree adapter?

 

I am planning to either make or add splitters for the high beam for both solenoid and flasher function. 

 

My BCM setting were erased after I got a new one so I'm not coded for xenons. When I code, will I have to check, "Bi xenon with additional beam" or "xenon with shutter" or simply code for how I would an aftermarket HID kit (without shutters)

[mmafreak]

I am able to get my hands on a MK2 Superb BiXenon unit without the AFS. The backing plate looks similar to OE, so not too much modification should be needed. 

 

 

Let me check it out and update the thread. Sorry for the thumbnail pictures, but the editor wasn't allowing me to upload larger pictures in the body of the post. 

Edited 13 October, 2014 by mmafreak

[xpower]

Good luck getting that to fit :-p

[mmafreak]

Good luck getting that to fit :-p

It wasnt working, so I decided to get a pair of E55 off ebay. 

 

Xpower, 

 

What 55W kit D2S kit did you get? 

[xpower]

I didn't, I brought 2 x 55w HID ballasts and 2 x d2s bulbs. I didn't use the d2s to amp converters as I cut the amp connectors off the ballast and put the d2s plug straight on (less connections the better IMHO)

Edited 7 November, 2014 by xpower

[mmafreak]

Got my E55s!  

 

 

Xpower, 

 

Sorry to keep bugging you mate, but I need some help modifying the cutoff to RHD. Instead of removing the whole piece and replacing it with a custom piece, I want to shave off the cutoff to make it flat. What do you think? 

 

[xpower]

The only problem with doing that is it will never be flat. What will happen is the cut off line will be slightly wavy and this will be amplified when the bulb is lit (the cutoff will be wavy and blurred in places)

The colour hue at the cutoff will also vary along the line (closer the shield is to the bulb the more blue the hue will be, further away the more yellow it will be)

Lastly this won't work as the shield is curved, so it can't be flat. It must go up at the edges where it goes away from the bulb.

This is how I got mine in the end

Edited 9 December, 2014 by xpower

[Alam]

You need to specify RHD if you can, I got them cheap as they were LHD so I modified the shield cutoff.

As far as the projectors are concerned you don't need to modify them (this includes the bowls) they will almost bolt straight in and use a D2S bulb. You will need to trim the inner frame down a little to make room for the solenoid at the bottom.

As for wiring you just link them off the main beam wire so when you just flash (lights off) only the halogens flash. If the lights are on then you get the bi xenons and the halogens working - no coding required.

As for the wiring I put a small hole in the base of the headlight and run the wires through, sealed around them as to cause no leaks.

It isn't easy but damn it's worth it :-)

The ones I did were plug and play - that's how I sold them to another brisky member easily

Hi

 

My Octy FL projectors are burnt and need a replacement. I really liked this excellent mod, God job mate. And moreover Its cheaper to swap the projectors rather than buying a pair of whole new headlights. My question is how have you changed the beam cut off from LHD to RHD??? and secondly do these Hella 55 Bi-xenon fit straight away or do we have to make extra holes in the plastic frame that holds the OEM projector???? . If you can guide me in detail I'll be greatful to you because I am also seeking pair of hella's

 

thanks

[xpower]

The E55 mounting points are the same as the originals but you will need to cut a slot in the plastic frame to allow the solenoid to fit (sticks out the bottom of the projector a little).

As the the LHD to RHD - the cut of shield is just a small piece of metal in front of the bulb shaped with a step in it. I just cut this off and replaced it with a flat piece of stainless steel plate, this way the beam pattern was flat.

Edited 10 May, 2015 by xpower

[Alam]

Thanks Mate... my E 55 projectors have started from turkey. I will update once I receive those and start retrofitting it.

 

Regards

 

Alam

[mmafreak]

I bought my projectors back in December but just had the time to get the bi xenon setup sorted this weekend. I followed Xpower's guide with some slight modifications and they fit snugly. 

 

First, I cut two slots in the plastic trim outside just like Xpower did. Unscrew the 3 Torx screws holding the OE projector and just wiggled it out using the cuts in the plastic to work as a flap. I didn't need to make any cuts in the OE projector. 

 

 

This next stage is where I needed some help and had one of my old Skoda technicians help out (he works at Jaguar now). Thanks to his knowledge we were able to trim the plastic frame inside for the solenoid to fit perfectly and wire the pigtails to the high beam from inside the headlamp housing itself. If you tug at the H1 wires, they flow through the main housing to the 36 pin power connector, so we just looped them there instead of drilling a hole in the high beam socket to lay the solenoid pigtail through. 

 

We had to dremel the bi xenon slightly around the edges in order to wiggle it inside the headlamp housing. The mounting points were the exact same as OE, so there was no need to further align the projectors. 

 

Also, I was able to fit the ballast and wires inside, just like how I had it setup with the H7 HID kit. I know a few members including Xpower who frown upon using CANBUS kits, but this is what I had with me and decided to continue using it. It was already taped to the low beam OE harness from last time and there were no changes to be made. No coding. Just plug and play. 

 

 

I was too enthusiastic with the plastic and the piece where I made cuts, snapped right off. I sealed it with JB quick weld epoxy I got from TRS. Drys within 6 minutes and cures within 4 hours. I took the lights out and let them cure inside the house overnight. That is the goo is that you are looking at on top of the headlight housing. 

 

So my only gripe with this is that I bought used LHD projectors and one of the lens was damaged when I got it. So I had to go out and get another single clear lens. In retrospect, I should have changed both lenses. The left beam is slightly yellow-er than the right, which is sharp. It could be that the left projector is off or that particular lens- this is what we have to settle for when buying used products I guess. 

 

 

But High beam looks great. I'm loving the tunnel vision typical to the E55. I switched back to 4300K as I was previously using a 5K kit and it hampered driving in the rain. I'm sure it a combination of the throw of the halogen projector and the color shifting of the 5k bulb from white to blue, that reduced the lumen output. At the moment I am concerned with the most light output, so 4300 was the choice. 

 

 

 

[mmafreak]

My question is how have you changed the beam cut off from LHD to RHD??? and secondly do these Hella 55 Bi-xenon fit straight away or do we have to make extra holes in the plastic frame that holds the OEM projector???? 

 

Hey Alam, 

 

It is pretty straight forward if you follow xpower's guide. It took about an hour for each headlight, since I already got the OE projectors out the night before I started working on the bi xenons. Also, see the pictures I attached of the plastic frame holder to see how to trim it to accommodate the solenoid. 

 

I got a LHD projector myself as it was cheap and tbh I messed up trying to make a custom cutoff. Try to get on HID Planet and see if some of the JDM guys can send over any spare RHD cutoffs they might have. That is what I did. 

First you dremel off the rivets on the side of the projector and take it apart. 

 

Then you have to dremel the LHD cutoff and fit in the new RHD cutoff in the same place using the same hole/mount. Mine says JAPAN on the cutoff shield.

 

 

Then I used nuts and bolts to close it back and hold the bowl and lens together.