I want to carry two kayaks on my Yeti roof. Would like to use the genuine Skoda bars which seem to come with T slots? Does anyone know if these slots compatible with Thule fittings? Was hoping to use the Hull-A-Port Thule carriers. Has anyone used these and if so can you get two side by side on the Skoda bars? Any info/experiences or alternative recommendations very gratefully received!

Cheers,

Tim

Sorry, but what do you mean by T slots?

My Skoda bars are smooth, so would need a clamp fitting.

I want to carry two kayaks on my Yeti roof. Would like to use the genuine Skoda bars which seem to come with T slots? Does anyone know if these slots compatible with Thule fittings? Was hoping to use the Hull-A-Port Thule carriers. Has anyone used these and if so can you get two side by side on the Skoda bars? Any info/experiences or alternative recommendations very gratefully received!

Cheers,

Tim

I would use the thule ones i use them for windsurfing no problem......in three years they have been great with no problems. i would recommend locks on

them though because of the way the mechanism functions. i have been using steel bars because i was too tight to buy the aluminium ones

JeZ

I would imagine that if there are T grooves in the bars than the Thules would fit. I know they do an alternative T adaptor for BMW bars but the standard T connector tends to be kind of universal.

I don't know about the kayak carrier but the Yeti roofbars do have a Thule compatible T-slot. When I got my roofbox I got a set of Kamei T bolts to fit it to the bars - http://www.roofbox.co.uk/scripts/rbvehsel4_tab.php/all-products/kamei_box_adapter_for_t_track_bars_no_km52003/Qx%40w%2C6M4PHS%2CZGenkQvENLdj9Q - which are listed as suitable for Skoda and Thule bars. My dealer said Thule make the bars for Skoda (tried to get a replacement part from them). Dimensions are on the third image on that link.

Well you live and learn!

My Skoda bars have got a smooth black plastic strip along the top. I didn't realise that it came out!

I don't know about the kayak carrier but the Yeti roofbars do have a Thule compatible T-slot. When I got my roofbox I got a set of Kamei T bolts to fit it to the bars - http://www.roofbox.c...,ZGenkQvENLdj9Q - which are listed as suitable for Skoda and Thule bars. My dealer said Thule make the bars for Skoda (tried to get a replacement part from them). Dimensions are on the third image on that link.

Yes, spot on advice from experience.

Yes the U bars on the Škoda bars are universal and any T-bars fit into them (after you've removed the rubber strips).

These are genuine Thule kayak carriers fitted to my Škoda bars:

But don't forget you can't use the climate control in winter with them on the roof..........

You can't have your kayak and heat it!

I'll get me coat

That's a long way up to lift that kayak!

It's fairly easy to do and I can manage it in one lift once you get used to it, although easier on mine because it's lower. I have the Thule bars too

Bars

With Kayak

With a door

That's a long way up to lift that kayak!

If you can't lift a kayak up there, you should NOT be on the water to begin with!!!

If you can't lift a kayak up there, you should NOT be on the water to begin with!!!

Not sure how the two correlate as there are quite a few 'short' or wheelchair bound paddlers out there...

My comment was more about the height of the Yeti than your ability to lift a kayak...

I think he meant about the strength in your arms to paddle well. The first time I went out for a practice in the seas I was knackered within minutes. It's easy in a lake but in the sea it's a lot harder especially when fighting currents. Great exercise though

Most of the power for efficient forward paddling comes from the lower torso which 'unwinds' like a spring after the previous stroke has 'wound up' the body in the opposite direction.

Most efficient paddlers paddle with almost straight arms to reduce the effort on their relatively small muscles and transfer the effort to the much larger group if muscles in the back and torso.

I've been teaching / coaching canoeing and kayaking (predominantly inland white water, but also wilderness trips by open canoe and, to a lesser extent, other disciplines such as touring, sea and freestyle) for almost 25 years on and off and currently lecture in 'outdoor adventure' at degree level.

Thanks for the replies so far, very helpful. I have another related question, I've read on some sites that the kayak should be tethered front and rear to the car when on the roof bars as well as being strapped to the holder/bars. They seem to recommend using the front towing eye for fixing a tether, consequences of not doing it are possibly that the roof bars and kayaks could be ripped from the roof in extreme conditions.

Is this necessary? My issue is that my kayaks are 3.87m long and I therefore can't see how I'd do this without the tethers rubbing against the paintwork on my Yeti somewhere!

Interested in the comments about Johann's kayak being a long way up - mine weigh 33kg each apparently so it might be interesting!

I've never had an issue with average length kayaks (around 2.2-2.5m) being strapped to the roof bars without tethering to the towing eyes.

With longer kayaks (sea kayaks, racing kayaks, etc.) and open canoes I would as the torsional forces are much greater on the (relatively) narrow gap between the bars.

I've also had four WW kayaks on the roof of a hatch (Mk3 Astra) without any issues or additional tethers.

Something line this would help:

http://www.karitek.co.uk/index.php?page=shop.browse&category_id=149&vmcchk=1&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=5

But I've never seen anyone in the UK using one of these (or any similar system).

Not sure how the two correlate as there are quite a few 'short' or wheelchair bound paddlers out there...

My comment was more about the height of the Yeti than your ability to lift a kayak...

I was just trying to be funny.

And I have one of these that live in the parcel shelf cover in the boot:

So you can get to anything strapped on the roof of a Yeti - or indeed wash all of it.

Maplins sell a half decent aluminium foot stool which I use a lot when working on the roof rack. I use the Malone system for one kayak and "J" bars for the other.

Maplins sell a half decent aluminium foot stool which I use a lot when working on the roof rack. I use the Malone system for one kayak and "J" bars for the other.

Climb on the rear wheel....works for me....

Br

JeZ

Sent from my ST26i using Tapatalk 2

I currently use a Thule kayak carrier on my Roomster - it's clamped to the cheaper Thule square bars (second kayak goes straight on bars).

I intend to carry over this to the Yeti when it arrives. I've used aero bars with t-slots before and, although it was a beautifully neat solution, I'd be wary of using them again.

The reason? My bar clamps eventually gave up the ghost - I believe this was due to water ingress rotting the internals. I'd cut out small sections of the strip rather than removing it but didn't make any proper attempt to seal around the bolts. My advice, for what it's worth, is either avoid the fancy aero bars, or make more of an effort than I did to avoid water ingress.

I also like the extra width (overhang) of 'normal' bars as it gives more room on the bars & more space for straps.

Edit: Strikethrough - my experience was from many years ago, with the very 1st generation aero bars. I suddenly remembered (I think??) that the bars are now completely redesigned & don't allow water ingress.

Edited 21 February, 201313 yr by Skoda Al Coda

Oh, & Johann. I've seen you post pictures of those stools before - very neat, where did you get them?

I normally open all doors & stand on sill, but those look bloody handy things to have in the boot.

I therefore can't see how I'd do this without the tethers rubbing against the paintwork on my Yeti somewhere!

+ tethers can set off parking sensors

Interested in the comments about Johann's kayak being a long way up - mine weigh 33kg each apparently so it might be interesting!

Another reason I like overhanging bars. The hull-a-ports can be fitted a bit further 'out' with these type of bars & 'every little helps' (although, conversely, the Skoda bars will be slightly lower - swings/roundabouts)

Plus, while I'm here, I'd also say that one thing I don't like about the hull-a-port is that they are easily 'nickable'. I've replaced the nuts on mine with conventional loc-nuts, so at least they can't be nicked without a spanner. I've got locks on the bars, so just take off the bars with hull-a-port attached when not using them.

Edited 22 February, 201313 yr by Skoda Al Coda

Oh, & Johann. I've seen you post pictures of those stools before - very neat, where did you get them?

I normally open all doors & stand on sill, but those look bloody handy things to have in the boot.

It's but a Google away! I got mine from Argos.