Yup, I try to do this where possible! Gonna need to try and find a nice dry day to swap mine around,as the Conti's on the front have worn a few extra mm that the back......probably about half done by the looks of them. I've already invested ina set of Michelin PS3's to swap all 4 out when the time comes. Surprisingly, these Conti's seem to be wearing pretty well - 14.5K so far and the fronts are only a little over half done!!

I just change my front tyres when they hit 3 mm. The wet grip deteriorates bady then. I prefer the best tread on the front- as long as the rear tread is stil decent then the alleged problems wil not arise. If the rears are 'bald' then you will see the VBH effect. I tend to get through 2 sets of fronts for one set of rears .

I tend to replace the fronts then replace fronts and rears the next time around. I think so long as the cars used regularly, tyre pressures are fine and there are no uneven wear issues a set of rear tyres can last a few years; but for me I wouldnt really like to run a set of rears for any longer than 3 years.

... see the VBH effect ...

:giggle:

Nah never bothered. Still alive so far.

I tend to replace the fronts then replace fronts and rears the next time around. I think so long as the cars used regularly, tyre pressures are fine and there are no uneven wear issues a set of rear tyres can last a few years; but for me I wouldnt really like to run a set of rears for any longer than 3 years.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

same here

I also never go below 3mm on any tyre.

Also, that VBH video is for front-wheel drive cars only - if she did that with a rear-wheel drive car, it would be completely different; another issue is that she appears to be running those tyres below 3mm, which in water is nuts (hence why I never go below 3mm).

Edited 11 February, 201313 yr by Herschel

Yep, I rotate them to wear evenly and like to replace all four at once. Rotating them so the fronts always wear out first is counter-productive and keeps your worst tyres on the end that needs them the most. All traction (on a fwd) and almost all the braking is done by the front wheels. The task of the rear is minor. Oversteer problems are always driver induced, don't blame the tyres.

If you keep rotating, then there is no big tread depth difference any no front/rear concern. Is that 5th gear video the one where they cut the deliberate swerve to throw the vehicle into oversteer?

You can prove whatever you like with a video if you want to. Just like their crash tests on cars without engines.

If you notice a difference in wear profile front/rear, then you should modify your tyre pressures front/rear to keep them wearing flat.

Yep, I rotate them to wear evenly and like to replace all four at once. Rotating them so the fronts always wear out first is counter-productive and keeps your worst tyres on the end that needs them the most. All traction (on a fwd) and almost all the braking is done by the front wheels. The task of the rear is minor. Oversteer problems are always driver induced, don't blame the tyres.

If you keep rotating, then there is no big tread depth difference any no front/rear concern. Is that 5th gear video the one where they cut the deliberate swerve to throw the vehicle into oversteer?

You can prove whatever you like with a video if you want to. Just like their crash tests on cars without engines.

If you notice a difference in wear profile front/rear, then you should modify your tyre pressures front/rear to keep them wearing flat.

The front does work harder but if you loose the front its usually understeer & lifting off you regain control, ABS takes care of any braking issues The geometry on std cars is partly set up to loose the front first as its safer, by changing the Geometry on most std cars they can be made to corner faster but the rear going away is more likely

If you loose the rear on a rwd car its usually with power on & "enthusiasm induced" & lifting off will regain some sort of control, amazing fun if you are trying to make it happen

If you loose the rear on any car fwd or rwd driving normally it results in oversteer (back wanting to step out) Any attempt to slow down, even just lifting off transferes the balance of weight in the car towards the front giving the front more grip & the rear less, the back wants to step out more meaning its harder to recover & can lead lead to a spin. You can often loose it in standing water & a change in surface brings grip to the rear so you getaway with it

Agreed in the video they exagerate the effect & you can say they swerve but swerving to miss things is something you have to do from time to time, thankfully most times we are far from the limit of the car & thanks to ABS ESP & all the various other aides we get away with it. If a spin is driver induced its by driving to quickly for the conditions but it can be caused by that dog or other suprise you find 1/2 way round a corner, swerving & the rest is history

If you dont believe me find a big wide EMPTY roundabout with clear visibility down all roads entering so approaching cars can be easily seen, drive round in the wet & when the car feels on the limit just lift off & you will feel the car turn in,. DONT wait until the back is sliding before you try, you can always have another go a bit quicker & DONT hug the inside of the roundabout or you may find yourself turning onto it. As soon as it starts to go out of shape accelerate gently, DONT brake. You can do exactly the same in the dry, its just you have to be going faster to get the effect so wet is easier.

With all the points raised 4 good roadworthy tyres are a must, correct pressures & driving within the limits of the car & the conditions will see you safe whether they are better tyreson the front or rear. Just when you are on the limit or have an Emergency situation appear ahead of you its to late to try & disprove the laws of physics.

Changing tyres before they get to the wear blocks is again always a good idea & when checking tyres always check the whole tyre width, if the insides are low on tread thats the bit thats pressing hardest on the road.

If you know what you are doing you can drive on the limit in any conditions but you need the experience to do it

This clip is of a chap I know driving a GT3 Porsche around Brands Hatch in awful conditions, note all the cars he passes, Evo's, Imprezas, Even a GTR. Its all the more amazing as the cars shod with Toyo 888's, a soft dry weather track & road tyre & pants in the wet, Mikes just so smooth, little fighting the wheel, just keeping it all balanced. Ive sat next to him in the wet in my 490 bhp RWD car at Bruntingthorpe, makes me realise how useless I am but I guess thats why he won the odd race

Edited 12 February, 201313 yr by Stuart_J

Petrolheads, eh?

I have to drive like an absolute f-wit to get the rear end out on a fwd car. Even braking and swerving it takes some effort (or serious muppetry).

Even with the roundabout-in-the-wet scenario, I'm never doing more than 20km/h in that situation and never had a problem getting around or stopping before those who don't indicate. Having 5mm tyres on the front and 3mm on the back makes no difference.

In that 5thG video you can see where she threw the car into a slide for their demonstration and cut all but the last swerve movement out of the video to try and hide it. She didn't do this with the other run which makes for a completely rigged video which has only been produced to scare the children.

I have to drive like an absolute f-wit to get the rear end out on a fwd car. Even braking and swerving it takes some effort (or serious muppetry).

Even with the roundabout-in-the-wet scenario, I'm never doing more than 20km/h in that situation and never had a problem getting around or stopping before those who don't indicate. Having 5mm tyres on the front and 3mm on the back makes no difference.

In that 5thG video you can see where she threw the car into a slide for their demonstration and cut all but the last swerve movement out of the video to try and hide it. She didn't do this with the other run which makes for a completely rigged video which has only been produced to scare the children.

There are plenty of other videos showing the same result on youtube - some from tyre manufacturers themselves. Yes it'll have been over emphasised for TV, but the effect is still the same especially to someone who hasnt any experience of the back end letting go, or how to control it properly and instead going into panic and making things worse.

If even the tyre companies recommend putting the best tyres on the REAR, then I'll bow to their knowledge and extensive testing in this area thanks.

I swap mine front to rear at each service. Mine goes in for its 2nd and 20K service next week and I will swap again. My car was new in May last year and still plenty of tread on them.

Yes, been doing it regularly twice a year since the winter-tire law has been enforced in Italy. It helps wear them out uniformly, because the front ones tend to wear round (cross-section, effect of suspension & steering), while rear ones tend to wear flat (effect mostly of suspension).

Upside: uniform wear, downsides: all four have to be replaced simultaneously, uneven wear imperceptible.

Luckily, Octavia is quite robust and the front end alignment is very solid, even with occasional sidewalk climbing, provided it takes place at low speeds.

This rotating thing has one downside - probably you don't do it yourself and that costs some money.

I'd suggest simple rear and front tyre change after some while (depending on your annual mileage). Then all tyres wear more or less evenly.

Every Vehicle I have owned has had the wheels rotated so that all get replaced at the same time.

Holy thread revival batman!

 

Personally I replace my tyres when they are worn, regardless of where on the car they are fitted.

Holy thread revival batman!

 

Personally I replace my tyres when they are worn, regardless of where on the car they are fitted.

 

Maybe it doesn't matter for summer tyres but if you lived in place with serious winter, I wouldn't recommed driving with 4mm on the front tyres and 7 mm on the rears.

I'm in the UK, we don't have proper summers or winters 

 

I do however run winter tyres during the colder months, when I put them on each year I put the ones with the most tread on at the front and that is how they stay until it is time for them to come off again.

are people really putting semi-worn tyres on the front axel?

being front-wheel-drive cars, id want all the grip up there. it also does most of your braking and more than half the weight of the car.

put the new tyres on the front!

 

when getting tyres changed at costco ( mainly due to extremely low prices ) . you have to tick a box saying you consent to the new tyres being fitted to the rear & you rear tyres being fitted at the front. just being honest i am too lazy to rotate tyres and change pairs as req

I just had to replace the tyres on one of my cars (sidewall got sliced).  These tyres were on for ~5 years and 57,000km.  I think I rotated them twice and each time with the most tread front left, then front right and least tread back right.  They were all measuring 2.7-2.3mm tread remaining when swapped out.

 

So I'm pretty happy with the alignment, pressures and rotation on that lot.  This is the first time I've been able to start with a new set, good alignment and wear them all out together.  Previously I've paid for shocking alignments which chewed one pair out and also had individual tyres destroyed (so replaced in pairs) before the set was cut out.

 

The Continentals on my scout have done ~35,000km and still have 5.5-4mm remaining.

10000 out of set of eagle f1 as2 would suggest the harbingers of doom incorrect. Oh that is not until they are worn out that's with 6mm tread remaining!

Oct vrs stage 1 estate

We do change to winters also and that's when we do the swap. Think this helps a lot

I normally rotate when the winters go on that wont be possible now diferent size tyre front and rear.

I normally rotate when the winters go on that wont be possible now diferent size tyre front and rear.

Oh poor you!

After reading this tread, I have no idea what to do for the best!

I was going to rotate what I've got, 4mm front, 6mm rear, but as winter is on it's way, new winter on the fronts seems a good idea