Check your earth and that you have the wires connected to right terminals in the socket. 

i have a cigar socket extension which only has 2 wires coming from it so cant go wrong (i think)

 

on the piggy back connector os anyone aware to which section should hold the 15amp fuse for the rear wiper and the 5amp fuse for the dash cam?

 

have just bought these

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162169039126?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

and

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331895022390?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

at least the additional USB connector allows me to charge my phone as well

You shouldn't be able to go wrong but....

 

The rear wiper fuse is 15amp mini on the second row down. 

 

Try making a circuit direct off the battery using a 5 amp fuse on the live. If it keeps blowing then the adapter is faulty. You can even use your piggy back connector too ensure that is ok. If it doesn't blow then it's your wiring that needs looking at. 

Know its an old thread but just wanted to say thanks for the tutorial and pictures... never done anything with electrics on car before and although (in essence) a simple job was more daunting taking apart the trim from the A Pillar to hide the wires!

 

All done and looks great - thanks again

v

Edited 3 February, 20179 yr by CramVRs
wrong section

And 4.5 years later I just put in the same install into my latest Mk2 Octy vRS and had to search this out to check size of nut on bulkhead to save faffing about 

Many thanks for a very useful guide. Having read it through a couple of times I went out to wire in a dash cam to my 2014 Skoda estate only to find that they've moved the fuses! Fuse box can now be found behind the glove box on the passenger's side. You now need a screwdriver, a long rod or similar item to poke in and unhook the glove box lid damper arm before you can pull the wretched glove box thing off. (So, if one of your fuses blows and it's dark and you're a long way from home, this crazy arrangement makes it a hundred times harder to get at the fuses! Top design feature Skoda!). Because fuses are now miles away from the driver's side storage box I ended up using a single cigarette lighter accessory which fitted nicely in the space behind the end-of-dashboard trim mounting (with a couple of cable ties to hold it all in place). All went smoothly thanks to your helpful instructions, so thanks again for the info.

Thank you Fubar for an excellent tutorial! I have just completed hardwiring a 12v threeway splitter placed in the "coinbox" like you recommended. One problem remains. My Drivepro 220 dashcam has a power cable with a gigantic plug, I suppose this is because of the electronics needed to step down the voltage to 5v. Anyway, with the plug in place the compartment cannot be closed. I intend to solve this problem by exchanging the original power cable for a USB cable since my 12v splitter also has three USB ports.

The cable I intend using is this: 

https://m.aliexpress.com/s/item/32819480078.html?spm=a2g0n.search-cache.0.0.7f25570fwDnEFv

19 minutes ago, Svempa said:

The cable I intend using is this: 

https://m.aliexpress.com/s/item/32819480078.html?spm=a2g0n.search-cache.0.0.7f25570fwDnEFv

Make sure it's long enough, measure length of current cable minus any excess when installed to be sure.  I generally need 2.5 meters and have a little excess left over, maybe 20-25cm. Mine may be further away though from power source, but best to check just in case.

Edited 3 September, 20178 yr by FUBAR

Thanks for your comment, Fubar. You may be right in supposing the cable is too short. I do have an extension USB cable I could use if that is the case. I have also found a possible 3m cable on Aliexpress, this is however a data cable. I am a bit worried that the camera could go into "computer mode" and stop recording if it detects a data cable. It is difficult to find suitable cables USB to Mini USB since I need the Mini USB plug to be at "left angle". The USB port on the camera is on the right side and a straight plug would make more of the cable visible. And I would prefer

to avoid that.

1 hour ago, Svempa said:

Thanks for your comment, Fubar. You may be right in supposing the cable is too short. I do have an extension USB cable I could use if that is the case. I have also found a possible 3m cable on Aliexpress, this is however a data cable. I am a bit worried that the camera could go into "computer mode" and stop recording if it detects a data cable. It is difficult to find suitable cables USB to Mini USB since I need the Mini USB plug to be at "left angle". The USB port on the camera is on the right side and a straight plug would make more of the cable visible. And I would prefer

to avoid that.

I have always used full data cables as it's only power going through it and other lines are dead it hasn't caused any issues for me. I tend to go for 2.5 meters and buy the cheapest cables I can find on Ebay. 

34 minutes ago, FUBAR said:

I have always used full data cables as it's only power going through it and other lines are dead it hasn't caused any issues for me. I tend to go for 2.5 meters and buy the cheapest cables I can find on Ebay. 

Thanks again! Since cameras are different I tested mine after dismounting it. Using a data cable I attached the camera to my PC. As expected the camera went into "computer mode". Using the same cable I then attached the camera to a USB charger. The camera immediately started recording! So you are obviously right again. Seems I can buy that 3m data cable after all.

Just now, Svempa said:

Thanks again! Since cameras are different I tested mine after dismounting it. Using a data cable I attached the camera to my PC. As expected the camera went into "computer mode". Using the same cable I then attached the camera to a USB charger. The camera immediately started recording! So you are obviously right again. Seems I can buy that 3m data cable after all.

3m will be more than enough, will mean needing to stow a fair bit of excess away somewhere. 2.5m seems to be the magic number for all my cars. I have had some issues with 3m - 5m cables not consistently supplying the power, but again I never really spend much on them lol. 

15 hours ago, FUBAR said:

3m will be more than enough, will mean needing to stow a fair bit of excess away somewhere. 2.5m seems to be the magic number for all my cars. I have had some issues with 3m - 5m cables not consistently supplying the power, but again I never really spend much on them lol. 

Well, I have scoured the Internet searching for 2-2.5 m cables with left angled Mini USB plugs. No success. The ones I found typically had lenghts 0.5 - 1.8 - 5 m. Plus a few 3 m cables. After doing some measuring I think 2 m would be ideal for me. But the original cable used now is 4.5 m and luckily there is a lot of empty space behind the fuse box where I could put the excess. Most data cables are thinner than power cables so a little more risk of voltage loss. But I believe 3 m would be OK.

Perhaps I should mention that my car is a Superb Combi 2012 (with the 6 cyl VR engine, I really love that). And since I reside in Sweden it is a left hand drive.

On 2017-09-04 at 15:07, Svempa said:

Well, I have scoured the Internet searching for 2-2.5 m cables with left angled Mini USB plugs. No success. The ones I found typically had lenghts 0.5 - 1.8 - 5 m. Plus a few 3 m cables. After doing some measuring I think 2 m would be ideal for me. But the original cable used now is 4.5 m and luckily there is a lot of empty space behind the fuse box where I could put the excess. Most data cables are thinner than power cables so a little more risk of voltage loss. But I believe 3 m would be OK.

It took forever but finally my USB cables arrived from China. So I had three lenghts to choose from, 1.5, 1.8 and 3.0 meters.

To make a long story as short as possible it turned out that 1.8 m was the perfect length for my car. From the camera along the top of the windshield (under the trim), down the left edge of the windshield and a small distance down the front door under the rubber seal. 

Since the fuse box is at the far left of the dash the cable then goes under the removable cover of the fuse box and then directly into the "coin box" where my 12 v splitter is located (thanks Fubar again). The cable connects to a 12 v to 5 v converter but the splitter also has three USB ports which is another option.

So now I can close the "coin box" again. Mission accomplished!

 

 

 

Sorry if i revive this post.

I have a DVR mirror that uses 2 12V lines. One is permanent +12V (B+), one is switched +12V (ACC+).

When i switch the key on ACC, the system boots on and starts recording. When i crank the engine the camera shuts down (maybe because of the voltage drop) and restarts but nothing is happening unless i reboot it manually.

My question is: is there a fuse for the switched 12V that is not turned off on engine cranking, or receives voltage only after the engine has started?

Thanks!

Thanks for the guide -

 

Here's my job - 

 

Finished fitting my front and rear cameras.

I've gone down the right hand pillar to the fuse box to power the front camera.

And I've gone along the left-hand side ceiling trim to get the cable to the rear of the car.

 

One thing I've noticed - after I piggybacked on the 15amp wiper fuse, the rear wiper is slower.

Is that expected when piggybacking?