gotcha.  thanks :-)

 

EDIT:  you got a recommended place to get 5A fuses?  and also those crimp ends.  what size do i need, what are they actually called and wheres best to get em? :-)

Edited 13 April, 201610 yr by sadexpunk

I didn't use the piggy back fuse connector. I had a spare socket on the fuse box with an ignition live so fitted a male spade connector to it and an inine fuse.

gotcha.  thanks :-)

 

EDIT:  you got a recommended place to get 5A fuses?  and also those crimp ends.  what size do i need, what are they actually called and wheres best to get em? :-)

You can get them anywhere like Halfords, but cheapest will likely be ebay. A basic set like this should cover you for some crimps http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/101-Electrical-Electricians-Crimper-Tool-Kit-Terminal-Set-Crimping-Wire-Cutter-/261944313456?hash=item3cfd190670:g:Bz0AAOSwDNdVjDku and for fuses always handy to have some spares http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120-pc-Assorted-Car-Auto-Fuse-Set-5-10-15-20-25-30-Amp-Rectangular-Blade-End-/151281211733?hash=item2339101955:g:T3EAAOSwu4BVtWi-

 

I didn't use the piggy back fuse connector. I had a spare socket on the fuse box with an ignition live so fitted a male spade connector to it and an inine fuse.

That's basically what I have at moment in both cars, but as I still had a stock of blade fuse adapters I plugged them into the free switched slots 

I ordered a set of car fuses, but didn't check what amps they had, just assuming it was a multi pack. 

 

Now it doesn't have a 5 amp, but does have a 7.5 amp. Will i be able to use this?

 

Initially I want to use it to power 2 phone devices, which are constantly on charge, with the view of adding in a dash cam soon. 

Fuses are there to protect no point in using a 7.5amp fuse in place of a 5amp as it won't blow in time. Just go to any motor factors or Halfords and pick some up there.

Fuses are there to protect no point in using a 7.5amp fuse in place of a 5amp as it won't blow in time. Just go to any motor factors or Halfords and pick some up there.

 

Thanks, will do tonight. 

To be more specific, the fuse is to protect the cable from overheating/ fire. If the cable is rated at 7.5 A or more there is no problem.

It is a common misunderstanding that the fuse at the supply point is to protect the load. The load must also have its own fuse to protect its circuitry. With a cigar lighter plug it is usually in the pin to protect its own wiring.

Radios, CD players etc have fuse or resetable device on the printed circuit board.

Same principle applies in the home where you have a choice of fuse rating in each plug to suit the load but the supply ring main will have a larger fuse or circuit breaker and the cable rated much higher to suit.

Even most petrol stations stock a range of fuses

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Even most petrol stations stock a range of fuses

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

And whilst the poster is at it get a small pack for when some in the car blow :P saves hassle

Caught this beauty today, slight bad language once 

 

https://youtu.be/dS1U6yMLFiA

Late parent.... no excuse.

Late parent.... no excuse.

 

goodness knows, but if that was the case park at the end and walk, not that far

Been following this guide which has been very helpful. Problem I'm having is with the fuses. I don't have a 15 amp fuse fitted in slot 41, there's none fitted but my rear wiper works.

 

I've compared my fuse layout to the the pictures here and its different.

 

Any suggestions which fuse slot to use instead?

https://mediaportal.skoda-auto.com/resource/documentation/manuals/en/octavia/05-2012/manual/a5_octavia_ownersmanual.pdf

 

Page 197/230, shows fuses in completely different locations. The diagram on the back of the fuse cover is identical to FUBARS and lists 41 as rear wiper.

 

How useless...

Edited 1 August, 20169 yr by drw8

Can you post a picture of your fuse box layout? What year is your car.

think its been posted in here already but the fuse box diagram on the back of the cover is wrong. its a mirror image of the actual layout so say the diagram says the wiper fuse is the 3rd fuse in a row of 7 fuses then it will actually be the 4th fuse as the diagram is backwards.

 

hope this makes sense?

IIRC Fubar did it.

Can you post a picture of your fuse box layout? What year is your car.

I posted a pif of mine and an amended version of it at the bottom of post #1 in this thread. Mine was a 2011 CR TDi, but everyone seems to find theirs to be slightly different to each others annoyingly. 

 

think its been posted in here already but the fuse box diagram on the back of the cover is wrong. its a mirror image of the actual layout so say the diagram says the wiper fuse is the 3rd fuse in a row of 7 fuses then it will actually be the 4th fuse as the diagram is backwards.

 

hope this makes sense?

Yea I think it's because the fusebox layout cards are not made for RHD cars and even the shape it shows of fusebox itself is back to front. LHD car would have it on opposite side and all would marry up. 

 

IIRC Fubar did it.

With much awesome use of MS Paint  

My fusebox layout is like the manual I linked to, but I the sticker shows the layout like FUBAR's that's the wrong way round.

 

My rear wiper is fuse slot 18, not 41 like others have been using.

Id recommend looking in fuse box for a slot with not fuse in it but has the metal connector inside and test to see if switched or permanent live and just use that, then you're not piggybacking so to speak, just using that feed. 

How do I go about testing with a multimeter? Do I need to earth the negative probe and the positive probe goes to the fuse holder, switch on ignition and I should get a reading of 12v?

How do I go about testing with a multimeter? Do I need to earth the negative probe and the positive probe goes to the fuse holder, switch on ignition and I should get a reading of 12v?

 

Thats exactly it. You can use the likes of the near by bolts on the bulk head in the pics on post #1 as a place to hold the negative pole of your multi-meter, remember to test with ignition in both on and off positions if you are seeking a switched live. If testing slots with existing fuses you should be able to touch the points in the rear of the fuse without removing with the multi-meters positive pole to save time.  

Just to re-ignite this thread.

 

just fitted my additional socket and noticed there is a fuse within the plug for the dash cam - will a 5amp fuse still be sufficient still or is this not enough?  I fitted a 10amp fuse in its place and it started to smell like it was burning so switched it off.

 

any help would be appreciated

 

 

Sat navs, dash cams etc should not need anything over 5 amps.

 

10 amps is quite a lot. If you're putting 10amp fuses into a 5 amp socket then not only are items your plugging in on the output side are not protected nor is the wiring on the input side behind the fuse box. If you do not know what your doing take it to someone that does before you cause some expensive damage. 

its more an issue with the Piggy back Fuse holder, its all wired correctly but pops fuses instantly.  Normally pretty good with these types of things