I'd still say it's a fueling issue.

So either fuel pump, injectors or fpr

Imho you are leaning out at 5400-5800rpm where 1.8T has peak hp and need the most fuel but your pump is dead and ecu lowers the boost/amount air and thats way you see on MAF graph drop in g/s.

Edited 13 May, 201313 yr by Gonzaga

It might be time for me to join this thread as I seem to have broken my car.

My next steps are: smoke test.

Ben suggested swapping the Saab injectors that Billy supplied for TT225 ones.

Saab ones are 350cc:

http://mrinjectoruk....23-P546080.aspx

TT ones are 386CC

I'm liking this idea as then we have a well known injector for Ben to tweak the map.

Anyone know the best place to buy them for price and fast delivery?

Don't think I will be attending the dyno day on Saturday

Edit: not cheap:

http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-TT_MKI-Quattro-225HP/Engine/Fuel/

I'd still say it's a fueling issue.

So either fuel pump, injectors or fpr

I would say a combination of pump and injectors

It might be time for me to join this thread as I seem to have broken my car.

My next steps are: smoke test.

Ben suggested swapping the Saab injectors that Billy supplied for TT225 ones.

Saab ones are 350cc:

http://mrinjectoruk....23-P546080.aspx

TT ones are 386CC

I'm liking this idea as then we have a well known injector for Ben to tweak the map.

Anyone know the best place to buy them for price and fast delivery?

Don't think I will be attending the dyno day on Saturday

Edit: not cheap:

http://www.ecstuning...HP/Engine/Fuel/

ebay for used, for new try a local motor factor that deals with bosch.

The bosch part no. for cupra R injectors is: 0 280 156 063

How about Genesis 380cc ones?

http://www.usrallyteam.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=10_44_287&products_id=81

Or Bosch?

http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-TT_MKI-Quattro-225HP/Engine/Fuel/ES2594193/

Don't want to be too cheap or anything but these are a third the cost of OEM.

You can use any injectors that will fit, the problem is you need to know the correct values to put into the map, otherwise you won't get the correct fueling at the correct time (too rich at idle for example, or too lean in the midrange).

EDIT the Bosch ones are cheaper than the Genesis although they state the bosch ones are for a 2.0 mk1 TT ???

Whats the symptoms Rob ??

Yeah I'm thinking genuine TT ones will be the safest bet. I just want it to run properly.

It runs fine up to 2200RPM, when cold runs rough and cuts power up to 4000RPM, above that it runs but not as smoothly as it should.

When trying a 3rd gear run it runs really lean and cuts out when hitting about 3K RPM

Aborted run:

Monday 13May 21:06:46Data version: 20121222

06A 906 ADVMB 1.8L R4/5VT G 0002

G003 G003 G003 G003 G031 G031 G115 G115 G115 G115

Marker TIME Group 3 Group 3 Group 3 Group 3 Group 31Group 31Group 11Group 11Group 11Group 115 - Field 3

STAMP Engine SIntake AThrottleIgnitionLambda SLambda SEngine SEngine LCharge PCharge Pressure - (actual Value)

/min g/s % °BTDC /min % mbar mbar

1 24.74 1200 10.39 9.4 13.5 0.969 0.805 1560 12.8 1000 1030

25.65 1400 9.36 7.8 14.3 0.922 0.805 1400 24.1 1000 1020

26.56 1400 11.64 12.9 13.5 0.969 1 1400 63.9 1000 1020

27.45 1360 5.86 4.7 19.5 0.899 1 1400 21.8 1000 1040

28.37 1440 19.33 44.7 18 1.039 1 1360 66.9 1230 1040

29.27 1560 24.39 88.2 19.5 1.016 1 1520 74.4 1390 1130

30.19 1720 27.72 98.4 20.3 1.031 1 1680 80.5 1450 1220

31.08 1960 33.83 100 20.3 1.023 1 1880 83.5 1560 1300

32 2200 43.67 100 21.8 1.039 1 2120 93.2 2350 1420

32.89 2560 59.17 100 16.5 1.094 0.914 2440 108.3 2450 1650

33.81 2880 83.28 100 6.8 1.257 0.844 2760 132.3 2470 2120

34.71 3240 102.67 99.6 8.3 1.382 0.852 3080 159.4 2460 2540

35.61 3360 76.19 34.9 12 1.359 1 3040 148.9 2390 2540

36.52 3360 83.92 30.6 11.3 1.515 1 3320 150.4 1880 2540

2 37.42 3760 99.61 34.1 13.5 1.367 1 4000 145.1 1910 2540

Post up the excel file, I'm getting good with those lol

Hmm yeah formatting fail. Attached text version aboxe. Excel below. Markers 1 and 2 are start and end of 3rd gear run.

Recon ones?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUDI-VW-SEAT-QUATTRO-S3-S4-TT-LEON-CUPRA-R-1-8T-225HP-RECON-INJECTORS-0280156063-/171031892913?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27d24b93b1

I'm no expert but your maf looks to be dieing / dead

What makes you say that?

I got a TT 3" MAF with the kit from Billy. Is the sensor itself different or can I swap my old sensor into the 3" housing and try that?

What makes you say that?

I got a TT 3" MAF with the kit from Billy. Is the sensor itself different or can I swap my old sensor into the 3" housing and try that?

It could be a secondary effect with the running lean, as it is pretty lean 99% of the time, but a faulty maf can cause the lean running too.

What made me say that was 1.5bar boost, 100% throttle and a gs of 102.67.

AFAIK you can put your sensor into the 3" housing to try it.

Cool. Quick Google suggests the same, that just the housing is different. Will swap them at lunchtime and see if it helps.

The sensor inside is the same part number.

Swapped, will test after work.

The screws seem to be T26 security torx.

All the sets I have and can find online have T25 and T27.

5 mins with the Dremel and now they're slot head screws

MAF hasn't helped with the cold running/cutting issue. Once warm it revs smoothly through the range.

Sitting still if I hold RPM at 2000-3500, AFR gauge sits at lean. Under and over it sits normal to rich. And bang on normal when idling. So the gauge seems to be giving an accurate representation.

I ordered some 225 injectors in case and presumably Ben needs to send an adjusted map for those. Will leave it in the garage until I can do both.

MAF hasn't helped with the cold running/cutting issue. Once warm it revs smoothly through the range.

Sitting still if I hold RPM at 2000-3500, AFR gauge sits at lean. Under and over it sits normal to rich. And bang on normal when idling. So the gauge seems to be giving an accurate representation.

I ordered some 225 injectors in case and presumably Ben needs to send an adjusted map for those. Will leave it in the garage until I can do both.

It sounds like the maf has some some difference but it isn't the cure.

Has the map been tweaked at all since you started with this setup ?

If so, can you try the original map you were sent again, incase some tweaks have been made that shouldn't have been due to the ait sensor leak, injector leak and possible maf signal issue.

Swapped the fuel pump for brand spanking 3 bar today. Bit soon too say but its definitely smoother around town and mpg has risen so getting somewhere.

...FAIL

4th gear, dropped back to 5 psi !!!

...FAIL

4th gear, dropped back to 5 psi !!!

:(

I take it you have tried clearing the fault codes to reset any learned fuel trims (not that it should really make any odds).

Looks like you need some injectors next then (same as I did).

Jesus I can't spend anymore lol

I'll give it a few more hours then I'm removing the pump and chucking a match in there

Jesus I can't spend anymore lol

I'll give it a few more hours then I'm removing the pump and chucking a match in there

that should sort it out lol

225 injectors are installed and new map loaded. It'll have to wait until tomorrow for a proper test.

Had a lucky escape, somehow the positive battery lead was loose and had almost come off. After load ing the map I turned the key and it tried to fire for a fraction of a second then everything died. Must have been the movement of the engine when starting that pushed it off.

Better keep an eye on that !

I went around the block and the cutting out when cold issue is still there.

Any idea what would cause this? It's like hitting the brakes as soon as I get to 2200rpm in any gear.

What I messed with:

Intake manifold removed and refitted, vac pipes rerouted, new injector cups, some FMIC pipes removed and refitted (smoke tested, no leaks)

New turbo, fuel rail, injectors.

Same FPR.

Original MAF sensor in 3" housing

No apparent vac, exhaust or boost leaks

New air intake temp sensor, wire extended by about 15cm to allow neater wire routing (surely not that?)

I feel like I don't have a detailed enough understanding of how all the sensors+map etc fit together to know where to look next.