New air intake temp sensor, wire extended by about 15cm to allow neater wire routing (surely not that?)

Have you double checked that the connections are all good ?

Also what wire did you use to extend the wiring, and have you checked in vagcom to see what temp it is reading ?

Have you double checked that the connections are all good ?

Also what wire did you use to extend the wiring, and have you checked in vagcom to see what temp it is reading ?

It was similar to the stock wire. VCDS says it's reading 15 degrees with car not running, external temp on cabin display temp reads 12 degres.

So I'd say it's reading okay.

I could pull it all apart again but based on the above it's probably not worth it.

Joints are soldered and heatshrunk.

Any luck Rob ???

Mine on the other hand has perked up a little since swapping the fuel pump.

The lambda controller figure is much lower now, was hitting as high as +/-20 now down to around 3 tops

Still not spot on, but a lot better, this week I have stumbled upon the fact that if I disconnect the fuel vapour line and leave it off the MPG picks up a bit to around 35 on the mway, but I still have to really go easy to achieve that figure.

I've done another log and it's been pointed out to me that its massively overfuelling in general. Inj duty cycle at 118% which basically means flat out

The boost issue seems a lot more under control too but still not as it was.

Had a smoke test done and nothing showed.

Ran an output test in VCDS earlier trying to work out why the mpg rose when unplugging vapour line and got a real loud hiss from the manifold area, not sure if this is completely normal ???

Anyhoo here's the latest log

Inj Lamd v's RPM.csv

You can see the higher lambda figure in this older log

LOG-01-001-031-115lamda high.CSV

Really not sure what is happening to Lambda at high RPM, got another log where it flatlines at the same point, Injector bombing out maybe ???

No luck. Realised I never set the wastegate actuator preload after I had to remove it to fit the turbo past the driveshaft.

The things you learn about your car eh?

Set it to 3 turns as recommended by teh internets , no change. Just drove onto my ramps, will start pulling things apart later :(

I feel your pain ...

It's a ballache when things don't go as they should, I wish I could you more mate, but I'm struggling myself.

I find staring at the open engine helps, I'm convinced if I stare long enough it will fix itself

Haha yeah I've spent a lot of time doing that.

I had a chat with a local legend at a meet on Sunday, he's renowned for being the man to fix aircooled and Mk1/Mk2 Golf cars.

He said "You're a f__ing idiot for playing with this car. I respect what you've done but you should have left it stock."

"The only person who can fix this is you, take it to a garage and they'll be like "WTF?!" "

All true

It's no easier with stock to be honest !!!

I've got access to all the right diag equipment, I know more than most garages about this engine in particular and still no cigar

Found this whilst reading up on things

Good info:

http://forums.audiworld.com/showthread.php?t=1476692

Some sample logs, engine cold, basically as soon as it hits around 2200rpm it pulls back. Do these numbers mean more to anyone than they do to me?

So assuming it's the N75 activating and dumping the boost, where do I go next?

Have posted on the local VAG forum to see if anyone can lend me an N75 to try. You never know!

All I can see on your logs, each time you have highlighted it, the fueling has gone rich and your throttle and maf readings have dropped at same time.

I'm told you can rule out the N75 by clamping the hose that runs down to the wastegate.

Careful though as your right foot is controlling the boost.

Dunno if it works mind you !!!

Swapped DV for stock one - no change.

Swapped FPR vac line for stiffer walled pipe just in case - no change.

Kinked the N75 to actuator line and taped as I don't have a suitable clamp. No change again.

Tried running with MAF unplugged, no change. But..

Hmm this is interesting.

Just nipped out at lunchtime for a couple of test runs, and I think I have partly fixed it.

Cold the car was the same, but once warmed up properly it seemed to be driving normally. Didn't have time for much of a drive, had to get back for a 1pm meeting and I also need to go buy petrol

I just found this.

http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_207.pdf

Check out page 20-21

Really interesting.

This is also interesting for the pictures:

http://fiat.comnet.bg/Skoda_SSP/SSP_001_ru_OctaviaTour_%D0%9A%D1%83%D0%B7%D0%BE%D0%B2.pdf

I did a throttle body adaptation. And you know what? I think that might have sorted it. More testing tomorrow when fully cold.

Damnit, no it's not fixed. Definitely much better once warmed up. Still not sure it's 100% right, need more driving to be sure. Still cutting back when cold.

So what the heck is it playing at? What is it that stays warm enough after 5 hours or so sitting in my garage to be okay but isn't overnight.

Might change the coolant temp sensor just in case, as it's 9 years old

Changed O2 sensor today for my spare one. No change.

So, what happens if I put the stage 2 map back on? With this turbo and injectors.

Will it cause issues or just run rich with the TT injectors?

I want to eliminate this map as the issue. Just in case.

The next question is - why is it closing the throttle? What would cause it to do that, so I can narrow things down?

The signal from the pedal is okay looking at logs, but actual throttle position isn't. So - throttle body? Wiring to throttle body damaged?

Or some other system limiting throttle to protect the engine? Something that doesn't throw a code.

I'm stumped.

Rob I'm sure it's called lean throttle cut,it's sensing its running lean and shuts the throttle accordingly to protect the engine,no codes I would to looking at the fuel pressure,maybye fuel pump failing.

Bugger, maybe my new-to-me LCR fuel pump isn't right. Hadn't thought of that.

Bugger, maybe my new-to-me LCR fuel pump isn't right. Hadn't thought of that.

Fuel pump has been mentioned a few times on this thread.

My car had the problem of it closing the throttle and going mega rich but it was at 5500 rpm it would do it when it was under the most load.

I had previously tried a used LCR pump but it didn't improve my problems, I even tried it with a 4bar fpr and nothing changed.

But as soon as I fitted a brand new LCR pump, with the 4bar fpr the problem was fixed.

So yes fuel pump is possible and it does mask the problem by closing the throttle causing the car to go mega rich, so you don't suspect a fueling issue.

One of these then?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120863856055

I've been reading this thread:

http://www.briskoda....rk/page__st__30

Looks like the Walbro is cheaper. And smaller, which is good for postage to NZ.

And it entails pulling apart the standard housing and fitting inside? No problem as I have 2 fuel pumps

Use this sleeve because it`s the right diameter for the combination of walbro and stock housing; http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/280756578449;jsessionid=5A9E7E966E93AEFE385713AD70605895?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_sacat%3D0%26_from%3DR40%26_nkw%3D280756578449%26_rdc%3D1

This eliminates fuel starvation in right hand cornering, use only this pump with 3bar fpr.

Cool, so the pump I linked above is okay?

My map is written for 4 BAR FPR and TT225 injectors.

I noticed in that thread "revo vs shark" the he has replaced stock teflone outlet tube with gas resistant black tube. This is a big mistake, the tube is gas resistant but from the INSIDE NOT FROM THE OUTSIDE!

It will bend and disintegrate within the one year causing fuel starvation. Use the orange stock tube and be very careful when removing it from the stock fuel pump.