Does anyone know the meaning of the numbers after the L in the suspension PR codes?

For example, what's the difference between these two?

L10 = Suspension range 10 installation control only, no requirement forecast

and

L58 = Suspension range 58 installation control only, no requirement forecast

The reason I ask, my car had an alignment and I've noticed on the report that the settings were "Octavia II [1Z] (2UC) Sports Chassis G07+L10 from 01/06"

The car is a 2010 vRS and the 2UC chassis code and G07 damper code are correct, but my car is code L58 springs.

The only info I've managed to find is this http://skoda.workshop-manuals.com/octavia-mk2/index.php?id=307 which suggests the only difference is the tolerance allowed on ride height, which is largely irrelevant anyway.

The car isn't right and is going back to be checked again, but I wanted to clear this up before I take it so we can make sure the settings are right.

The L codes are the axle weight ranges e.g L58 is 756-790KG

You'll also find the exact axle weights on the sticker on the passenger door jamb.

The TSI might be rated differently to the TDI, which is 1100/1100Kg.

Ah OK, cheers.

The L10 is 731-760KG.

The three codes that define the front suspension are the chassis code (2UC), the axle weight ranges (L10) and the suspension characteristic (G07).

I would expect all three to be correct, however, the static parameters such as ride height that are devired from these code may be the same.

Is the car standard?

Have the bushes, springs and dampers been checked?

Totally standard and done 16,000 miles. Everything is in as new order as you'd expect, no accident damage either.

It went on the machine and was aligned. Everything in tolerance and even side to side. Test drive, still pulling slightly. Back on the machine and rear toe has moved loads both sides, front toe small difference. Confused looks all round, re-aligned spot on again. Road test again, seems better so I leave. After a couple of hundred miles on familiar roads, it's definitely not right. Pulls left and steering wheel is not straight.

The only other thing not changed is the tyres. Fronts have only done 2k though. Rears are getting read as they are worn on the inner edges slightly and rumble a bit, but I can't see that being the cause of the way it drives.

If things are changing between alignments, check the engine mounts, wheel hub flanges and the wheels themselves.

Is the alignment being done with a Hunter or other well known alignment system?

If things are changing between alignments, check the engine mounts, wheel hub flanges and the wheels themselves.

Is the alignment being done with a Hunter or other well known alignment system?

I will double check but I'm sure all of those things are fine. The only theory the guy came up with is the bushes twisting around the bolts on the bottom arms and then evening up when it was driven. Not sure about that myself but I have no better ideas.

It was done on a John Bean (Snap-On) machine.

I will double check but I'm sure all of those things are fine. The only theory the guy came up with is the bushes twisting around the bolts on the bottom arms and then evening up when it was driven. Not sure about that myself but I have no better ideas.

It was done on a John Bean (Snap-On) machine.

The machine is fine.

Torn or worn bushes on the suspension or subframe can cause this issue. I would have assumed that these would already have been checked.

16k and bushes being the cause sounds a bit unlikely. But worth checking everything over of course.

16k and bushes being the cause sounds a bit unlikely. But worth checking everything over of course.

I've seen quite a few torn bushes due to the giant potholes around here. Also, damaged wheels, hub flanges, LCAs, steering arms and even cracked knuckles :( 

Sad state of affairs isn't it? As you say, it's worth checking even if it's just to cover all bases.

Both the mechanic and I have looked over it but I'll make sure it's checked again. Thanks for the advice chaps.

Sad state of affairs isn't it? As you say, it's worth checking even if it's just to cover all bases.

It sure is. On Monday, I had a cracked knuckle that released the ball joint. Fortunately, it was on the approach to roundabout so he was only doing a few MPH. He showed me a picture of the pothole when he collected the car. You could only just see the top of a 12" ruler. That's just ridiculous.

It sure is. On Monday, I had a cracked knuckle that released the ball joint. Fortunately, it was on the approach to roundabout so he was only doing a few MPH. He showed me a picture of the pothole when he collected the car. You could only just see the top of a 12" ruler. That's just ridiculous.

So technically a crater :-)

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

So technically a crater :-)

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

His left wheel was so deep in the hole he couldn't drive out. This was 'lucky' because the knuckle had cracked at the ball joint and the hole was holding the wheel upright.

Tyre run out can cause similar to what your experiencing . This link explains it better than I could. http://www.iam-bristol.org.uk/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=334&Itemid=1

Tyre run out can cause similar to what your experiencing . This link explains it better than I could. http://www.iam-brist...id=334&Itemid=1

It's a possibility I'll be swapping the tyres side to side before I take it back for alignment to be checked, just to see if that makes a significant difference to how it drives. MOT at a different place tomorrow too, so I'll have him take a good look at everything with a fresh pair of eyes.