How To: Replace Gearbox oil

[Bowders1]

Hi Folks thought I would replace my gearbox oil.

To change out the fluid you will need your car to be level,

I used 2 trolley jacks to accomplish this as my car is low an my driveway slopes down so I just jacked up front to get level height. With a std height you may be able get to the drain plug just by parking in front of a curb that drops off/slopes down. If you want to do it the hard way you can jack up all four corners of the car and put it on jack stands.

Transmission Fluid/Oil.

Lot’s of choice out there.

Few years back I changed my gearbox oil to Fuch’s Titan Gear Syn 75w-90 moving from std VW/Skoda oil. I was not that impressed with this stuff and felt the std dealer oil give better gear change. As my car is modified and I use it in a brisky way where allowed I wanted to go for a better oil, I choose to ask the Oilman site Opie oils, explaining my car details and my type of driving.

The recommenced oil came back as: Redline MT-90 Fully Synthetic 75W90 Gearbox Oil.

As I have already heard good reviews on this I went for it.

If you want the oem oil you can pick it up at the dealership for pretty cheap.

Tools for the job

· Socket Wrench

· 3 or 4" extension (optional)

· 17mm Allenhead Socket or 16mm Triplesquare Socket (depends on car, most I have seen is the 17mm Allenhead )

· Transmission fluid need 2 litres

· Funnel and hose

· Bowl to catch the oil

17mm Allen head socket

It also makes life easier using a funnel and hose/tubing to pour oil down into gearbox

This is what I made up from old washing machine hose.

Car raised and ready to start

- There is a curved hardline (power steering line) that on some cars gets in the way of the gearbox level / fill plug (although not impossible to get around) I decided to undo the bolt that hold’s the hardline to the bottom of gearbox. Seen undone and loose in Pic below to far right side of gearbox.

- Unscrew the fill plug before drain plug. The last thing you want to do is drain the oil and find out that you can't fill it back up. If you get on the ground and look up under the bumper on the drivers side you will see the fill plug.

Level / Fill plug removed

- Now remove the Drain Plug. The drain plug is located on the driver’s side just next to the dogbone mount and can be easily reached from the front of the car. Get the plug nice and loose so the fluid is dripping and move your container ready to catch the fluid. Fully unscrew the plug with your fingers and just let it drop into the container. This stuff stinks so wear gloves or try not to get it all over your hands and arms.

- Give the oil enough time to completely drain , could be up 20-30 minutes or so(so go make a cuppa). When drained screw plug back it with your fingers. The haynes / bentley manual does not specify how much torque you are supposed to tighten the plug with. I did mine quick tight probably around 22 ft-lb.

- From the top of your engine run the hose down to the fill hole and stick it in. If you have someone to help you it is best if you can look under the car while someone else pours in your oil or keep checking to make sure hose has not come out.

- Slowly pour in one bottle. Then complete on the second bottle. You may find you will only use between ½ to ¾ of the 2

^nd

bottle as you probably still have some original oil still in gearbox, this is common and also depends on how level your car is. Once oil starts dripping out of the level / fill hole, pull out the hose and screw the plug in with your fingers and tighten with your socket wrench.

Job done….

I noticed straight away better gear change than the previous stuff I had in box, the down shifting was vastly improved and no notchy feeling . Well impressed with that oil.

[RobClubley]

Nice guide, as always

[stig1]

great guide

[trundlenut]

Excellent guide. Also this guide is valid for diesel engines as well as petrols, the process and parts are identical.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2

[Phil-W]

Good guide. Personal preference but I prefer to have the car sat back on the ground for re-filling

[James I]

Bowders1, I changed the gearbox oil on my lads Lupo yesterday, I also had 2 litres to refill with BUT, once both bottles were poured in we did not get oil anywhere near the fill/level hole, I am going to get another litre tomorrow to top it off.

When you filled your gearbox up did you get any run out the fill/level hole?

Great guide, thanks for taking the time to post it up.

[trundlenut]

Was th

Bowders1, I changed the gearbox oil on my lads Lupo yesterday, I also had 2 litres to refill with BUT, once both bottles were poured in we did not get oil anywhere near the fill/level hole, I am going to get another litre tomorrow to top it off.

When you filled your gearbox up did you get any run out the fill/level hole?

Great guide, thanks for taking the time to post it up.

Was the car level? - Properly level, not on a slightly sloping drive.

[Tech1e]

It's always a best idea to run the box up and recheck the level.

[James I]

car was slightly sloping backwards as it was on the ramps, even though when I put my finger in the fill hole I couldn't find the oil! Looking in the manual it states 2.7 litres in the gearbox. I will check again tomorrow and top him up.

[trundlenut]

It needs to be level, I assume the gearbox is basically the same as the skoda ones and the fill point is on the front, so if it was up on ramps you could probably get a fair bit more oil in with the car at an angle on ramps.

[Bowders1]

Good guide. Personal preference but I prefer to have the car sat back on the ground for re-filling

That's ok if you have level ground. My driveway is sloped downwards as I mentioned.

And even if ground was level I would have no chance filling gearbox as car is way too low.:-)

Bowders1, I changed the gearbox oil on my lads Lupo yesterday, I also had 2 litres to refill with BUT, once both bottles were poured in we did not get oil anywhere near the fill/level hole, I am going to get another litre tomorrow to top it off.

When you filled your gearbox up did you get any run out the fill/level hole?

Great guide, thanks for taking the time to post it up.

Cheers.

The octy takes approx 2.2 litres not sure about the lupo buddy.

I could not get all the 2 litres in mine little bit leftover probably due to some left in the box.

Sent from my Samsung S3

[marcevs72]

just done mine and also reset the gear linkage and so much smoother.replaced mine with standard dealer oil and well surprised as only cost £12 from the skoda dealer for 2 litres

[YellowCar]

When changing gearbox oil for this type is there any issue with it mixing with what's in there? Pretty sure mine has never been done at 76k so I assume it's the oem fluid.

[meaty101]

When changing gearbox oil for this type is there any issue with it mixing with what's in there? Pretty sure mine has never been done at 76k so I assume it's the oem fluid.

I didn't flush out the old oem oil when i put this stuff in and no issues for me. However a gearbox oil change didnt sort a notchy change that turned out to be a leaking slave cylinder.

[YellowCar]

I didn't flush out the old oem oil when i put this stuff in and no issues for me. However a gearbox oil change didnt sort a notchy change that turned out to be a leaking slave cylinder.

Cheers mate, yes I remember you saying about that. Daft question maybe but where do I locate that cylinder to check mine?

[meaty101]

Its right under the battery box on top of the gearbox. It's a black plastic cylinder with a fluid line going to it. You may not see it leaking externally though mine wasn't. I only knew when i removed it. Its held on with two 13mm bolts iirc.

[Jevpls]

I think it's time for me to do that. Any ideas where could I find information about the right oil I need (and the amount of it)?

2011 2.0 TDI (6 gear manual transmission).

[andreij]

If gearbox housing and clutch are removed yes, you will need 1.9l of transmission oil. If gearbox is partially disassembled you will need in around 1.7l.

 

Attached reference from skoda workshop manual.  

Identification characters, aggregate assignment, ratios, filling capacities (Octavia II).docx

[beezera10]

Just on this topic, I was told that it wasn't necessary to replace the oil as it was sealed for life.  The only time when new oil would be required is when the gearbox packs up and needs refurbing.  Also, I read somewhere that some external bolts need to be undone to ensure the gearbox is fully drained - something to do with the internal selectors.  It stipulated that the gear lever/linkages must not be touched when doing this as it would throw the selectors out of sync.  I have a Mk2 Octy PD 1.9TDI 2008 with 130k.  Thoughts??

[nta16]

Sealed for life - depends what you interpret that to mean, 13 years, 130K-miles, more, less?  Much is a matter of belief.  Ask Skoda or VW how long they would warranty the gearbox for.

 

I'm thinking of the manual gearbox with the following.

 

You'll never fully empty the gearbox of oil, I don't know this gearbox but I'd very, very carefully fully research before undoing any external bolts.

 

Note all the advice above and about car being level and always checking you can remove the filler plug before you remove the drain plug.  I clean around the two plugs and personally use a penetrating releasing fluid like GT-85.

 

I like to get the oil as hot as possible so that it drains out easier and quicker but I still leave it to drain as long as possible, both are to get out as much old oil and whatever else, this also mean more fresh new oil goes in and the effects less diluted by old oil and whatever else.

 

I like to fill slowly so that as little fresh oil is wasted and still available if topping up is required after the gears have been turned, at the end and later I top off I use a giveaway plastic simple syringe type filler I got decades ago to reduce waste.

 

Always have the old oil draining into a clean container that way you can inspect it, as it was in the box, for colour, consistency and whatever else against the new fresh oil.

 

[beezera10]

Cheers Pal.  I've serviced my own cars and bikes for 40 years, but only changed gearbox oil on bikes.  Planning to keep the Octy indefinitely, or at least until the oil runs out??  I don't have any issues with the 'box at all, maybe a bit stiff at minus temps but I've had that on all the cars and bikes I've ever had.  I'm not intending to undo any external bolts, but I did read that if you undid something (can't remember what but it concerned selectors) it would facilitate the draining of the rest of the oil.  As I've still got the original DMF clutch which sometimes makes a racket, I may look at the gearbox again when the clutch gets replaced (SMF conversion I reckon).

 

There are some great pictures and instructions on how to change the oil on the site!

[nta16]

If you're keeping the car then a better oil will offer better protection and operation and for longer (same for engines and axles).

 

Though I've never used it I know that the Redline leaflet shows viscosity loss of oils at just 5,000 miles so just changing with standard oil may help a bit with the cold and a better suitable oil may help a little more but neither will overcome gearbox design and manufacture and wear and tear use and abuse.

 

If you've got those cable adjusters they will help too, and of course any clutch or hydraulic issues. 

 

I've been driving various "classic" (over-priced and overvalued) cars as dallies for 30+ years and know the benefits of good thorough oil changes but convincing others (particulars the other old-farts that own "classic" cars) that there's a benefit is a waste of time, most only believe in topping up or that any change or improvement in oil is a placebo, and that might be partially correct but doesn't fully explain the (small, don't expect miracles) improvement.

 

First thing before you empty might be to check the level (careful if you've got it hot) se how much it's down, remembering to allow that the oil hasn't fully dropped if it's still hot.  That way any improvement can be put down to low oil level, if the oil is low.

 

If you find an improvement and become a convert, or even disciple, you may prefer to do it sooner than 13 years or 130k-miles next time.  I changed the oil on my wife's Fabia Mk3 at 38k-miles, at 4.5 years old (bought s/h at 10k-miles, 18 months old) and she said she noticed an improvement in gearshift and after 44 years together she wouldn't just say so.  I got a good oil half price so not at all expensive.  

 

To rip Dave Allen off, may your oil belief go with you. 😄

 

[beezera10]

Cheers.  My last Octy covered 158k with the same gearbox oil, and that 'box was even better than the PD.  I'll get round to it soon, if not to just see what the state of the oil is.  I've seen some stuff on Ebay (Mannol and Febi) which look good.  I've used Mannol in the engines of the Octy and Citigo for years without issue.  By the way, both oils are yellow synthetic - is that right?

 

I also ride a 1962 BSA A10 650 motorcycle.  Oil is changed every 1000-1200m with good old mineral 20w50.  The gearbox is every 3000m or so.  Unlike the people you mention, I do change regularly - engine rebuilds are expensive.

[nta16]

1 hour ago, beezera10 said:

Cheers.  My last Octy covered 158k with the same gearbox oil, and that 'box was even better than the PD.

Yes but it might have been even better if the oil had been changed or improved type.  😄 - Or it might not.  If it's good, or good enough, I can understand that it might not seem or even might not be worth the effort to change.  I'm not Novax DJoke-abit suggesting positive thought can purify your gearbox oil.

 

 

1 hour ago, beezera10 said:

By the way, both oils are yellow synthetic - is that right?

Sorry I've no idea, I don't know Mannol but I'd guess Febi don't 'make' their oils, same way Ford don't.  I'll leave you to research what synthetic oils really are - but a good oil is a good oil regardless of its description.

 

Oil colours can vary widely and usually has little significance.

 

ETA: If you like a particular oil and it works for you stick with it, you'd really have to go out of your way to find a poor oil normally. 

 

Personally I use Millers Oils as they're a local (well UK) blender and seem to do good products over a range of choice.

 

1 hour ago, beezera10 said:

I also ride a 1962 BSA A10 650 motorcycle.  Oil is changed every 1000-1200m with good old mineral 20w50.  The gearbox is every 3000m or so.  Unlike the people you mention, I do change regularly - engine rebuilds are expensive.

The ones, from decades back to now, that tell me I'm wrong with my choice of types of oil I've used in my classics often only do dozens or hundreds or few thousands miles annually (like me now) but I've put at least a couple hundred thousands miles plus on the various "classics" I've had and the engines have been fine (well as much as any British 60s/70s engines can be).

 

In my '73 Midget (my only car) I use a Millers 'fully synthetic' 20w-50 and in my Ford Type-9 gearbox I use Millers synthetic GL-5 spec gear oil which I'm assured by those that know better will destroy the "yellow metals" in the box despite Millers and others saying some modern GL-5 don't.

 

I put a Millers GL-4 synthetic in the Fabia gearbox as obviously this is of high quality German engineering. 🤣

 

Edited 18 January, 2022 by nta16
ETA: