Hope someone could help with my dielemma, I have purchased last sunday an Octy MK1 2002 1.9 TDI 110 BHP ASV engine code for £950.00 which I thought was ok, until..................

Since buying the car last week, I haven't drove it much as I was still using my temp vehicle, started using it yesterday and I have discovered that the clutch is slipping similar to:

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/255313-mk1-octavia-vrs-clutch-change-and-possibly-dmf/

 

So, after finishing beating myself up for not test driving the car for long enough to discover the fault, I have decided to make a decision on how to proceed forward and this is where I need your help:

 

1) go back to the seller and either try to get my money back or asking for some money back towards putting the job right (this was a private sale so not sure how I stand with law etc...)

 

2) just take it to a garage and get the job done, I was quoted £700 to £750 for DMF and clutch by two garages, one said that maybe DMF does not need changing and the cost for just the clutch would be £550, is it worth just having the clutch done by itself.

 

3) Purchase a G60 SMF and VR6 clutch kit (not sure if this will fit my car) and get and indie garage to fit it.

 

4) Or as suggested by a mate, part exchange it at a garage and get another car for £2000 (that's as much as I can stretch to now), but I don't think I will be able to get anything good for £2000, I still want to buy the 110 non PD Octy.

 

And lastly (as if I haven't got enough troubles) does a whistling Turbo mean that it's on it's way out?

 

Teach me to buy a 164k car (although FSH) and not fully test driving it properly.

 

Where abouts in the UK are you? Might be able to recomend someone.

if private sale you have no comeback

 

if you really want the car and it otherwise is in good condition, get an indie to do an smf conversion

Where abouts in the UK are you? Might be able to recomend someone.

 

I live in Derby, I hope you're close to me.

 

if private sale you have no comeback

 

if you really want the car and it otherwise is in good condition, get an indie to do an smf conversion

 

 

Yes, I thought so, I really like the car and I thought that this could have gone at anytime after I bought it, I hope I haven't paid too much.

 

I have been reeding about the G60 SMF and VR6 Clutch kit and some people experienced judder when idle, when I started looking at these, I was baffled as there are so many diffent versions, do you know which kit is the best to have?

Edited 19 July, 201312 yr by nbat58

yours is a diesel so not sure if these parts would fit, anyway they would be overkill on your car

 

ecp do a conversion kit, not sure of costs

yours is a diesel so not sure if these parts would fit, anyway they would be overkill on your car

 

ecp do a conversion kit, not sure of costs

 

Do you have a link for ecp please?

http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Skoda_Fabia_1.9_2006/p/car-parts/car-transmission/clutch-and-associated-parts/solid-flywheel-conversion-kit/?336445030&1&1ca2c5256e001299f88e1b4ddfeee5eb73638281&000299

 

out of stock though, might be worth giving them a call

Has anyone dealt with darkside development, there is a few kits that fit mine but confused with the differences:

 

This one uses Darkside G60 SMF, sachs evrything else and VW bolts, what the diffeference between the 10 kgs and 7 kgs flywheel?

http://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/darkside-g60-flywheel-and-sachs-vr6-clutch-kit.html

 

This one uses Dakside parts and is silent? for 02J & 02A vehicles, whatever that means?

http://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/darkside-silent-g60-single-mass-flywheel-clutch-kit-for-5-speed-02j-02a.html

 

There are others too, which is the one to go for? the first link states that "PLEASE NOTE - As with most of the Single Mass Flywheel Kits Available, there will be some noise at low RPMs and at idle. This is completely normal and will not damage your gearbox or engine"

The second link states "Please note that this Clutch kit is vibration, judder and chatter free, unlike other cheap kits on the market"

 

Which of the two would you recommmend and has anyone used Darksie Developement, I have also been looking at this:

 

http://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/ecu-tuning/

If all goes well with the SNF and clutch.

 

I have been reeding about the G60 SMF and VR6 Clutch kit and some people experienced judder when idle, when I started looking at these, I was baffled as there are so many diffent versions, do you know which kit is the best to have?

 

I have this conversion. not a judder but a bit of chatter on tick over, dip the clutch it goes, lift comes back. but no juddering at all.  good mod for me on my petrol.

 

Jason - Devonutopia uses Darkside developments talk to him, but they have good rep. 

I have this conversion. not a judder but a bit of chatter on tick over, dip the clutch it goes, lift comes back. but no juddering at all.  good mod for me on my petrol.

 

Jason - Devonutopia uses Darkside developments talk to him, but they have good rep. 

 

I have called today Darkside Development and they're booked solid for three weeks, so I guess what you are saying about their reputation must be true, I thought the fitting was not bad @ £150.00+vat, according to the guy I spoke with this takes 5 hours to fit.

I have called today Darkside Development and they're booked solid for three weeks, so I guess what you are saying about their reputation must be true, I thought the fitting was not bad @ £150.00+vat, according to the guy I spoke with this takes 5 hours to fit.

 

 

 

Evening buddy, That labour charge sounds expensive to me ... i know of a local garage not far from me its near nottingham racecourse the guy is a diamond he knows his stuff does a brilliant job too 

 

for example i brought my clutch conversion and superpro bushes for the lowerarms all new ball joints and droplinks he fitted them then fully laser aligned my occy

 

for £135 including vat !

 

ive now done over 5000 miles including a 1300 mile round trip around europe in the last 2 weeks  with no faults at all 

 

pm me if you would like his details 

I had the same problem with a private sale payed £2500 for a diesel had it two weeks the engine went bang and had a fault on the dash which the last owner said was a brake pad fault which was actually alternator fault.

I thought I had no leg to stand on so I rang citizens advice who were useless so spoke to trading standards and the law is if you can prove that the owner would of known the car had a fault when sold to you then you have every right to demand your money back, cut a long story short I pushed it further and he had a choice to give me a full refund and take the car back or pay to have it repaired (which is what the last owner did for me) hope this helps in some way!

Here I am again, had the Darkeside Developement uprated smf and clutch kit fitted and a cambelt kit put on, thanks Sreven89, top class work from your contact. Before having the new clutch kit I was nursing the car, however after the repair I started driving the car normally and because the car didn't feel that quick or fast, I decided to have a remap, never drove a non PD TDI before and thought the older engines were maybe slower than my last car a PD Passat.

So off I go to the remap centre in my area and had the car remapped from 110 to 135 with a revo remap, prior to the remap the mechanic told me that the car had a fault code 17964 and that he was going to clear it and then upload the map and see how it drives, he took it for a test drive and said that the car had no acceleration and probably will need to be book it in with him to resolve the problem and only then will I feel the benefit of the remap, so paid for the remap and did not book in with the garage for the low boost issue as I didn't know anything about their work or when I was able to take the car in and most importantly how much it was going to cost.

I thought that remapping centre would not remap the car until the under boost problem was resolved but they went ahead and flashed the software anyways.

So drove the car home, changed the fuel filter and the air filter as soon as I got home to see whether this may make a difference and while doing that I had discovered not 1 but 2 vac pipes were disconnected, these pipes connect to a Y piece that go to the EGR and the other end one to the top of the N75 valve and the other to another thicker pip. So I reconnect the two vac pipes and took the car for a long drive, the next day I plugged VCDS in the car and blow and behold I am getting 17965 code now, but this is strange as my past experience with the 17965 code my previous car went into limp mode, this one however just takes longer to get to a higher speed.

 

When I try to accelerate the accelerator only seems to work correctly when I ease off it a little, if I try to put my foot down nothing happens, wonder whether this is related and part of the problem.

My thoughts are that the driver I bought the car from knew the car had maybe turbo problems (I am not sure at this stage that this is the problem) and disconnected the 2 pipes on purpose to carry on driving the car and waited for a sucker like me to sell the car to, or the pipes came off on their own without knowledge to the former keeper, regardless I need to get this issue resolved... any help is greatly appreciated..
 

Edited 18 August, 201312 yr by nbat58