The definitive guide to removing a broken lock (rear doors)

[DBP]

The definitive guide to removing a broken lock (rear doors)

 

2. Removing the door card and keeping it intact.

This can be done and it is quite simple.

First of all remove the main handle. Do this by using a long screw driver and placing it against the handles rim to the fabric.

Forcibly push in to the handle and it should come away as two pieces. Remove the two holding bolts.

Put the window down.

If you look on the photo you will see a gap on the window seal.

Put the screw driver in here.

Using and upward motion, use it to lift the edge of the door card up and over the metal.

You should be able to see inside the door. using your hands, push hard away at the top 2 clips (left and right side) to gain more access. Hopefully they won’t break.

You will now be able to see the other clips.

Using a skinnier, but still long flat head, push it through the gap on the clip.

Push it left and right and it should come off.

Doing it this way should save the vast majority of your clips.

The door car will now be free.

 

2. Removing the lock A.K.A the pain bringer
3. 
   

At this point you have to be comfortable with crying. There will be a lot of it.

Remove the plug, internal handle cable and locking wire for better visibility and working area.

Using the screw driver and a lump hammer, knock away the top plastic part.

Once that is off you need to remove the metal cage. This is a ****!

Take time and patience and be careful where you hit. I missed and now I have a dent! FFS!

Once this is off there will be loads of plastic. Smash this away. It will be all gone when all you can see is the metal locking piece.

 

This is the culprit.

 

If you have cleared enough away, you should be able to reach it and open the door.

Hey presto, you’re free!

 

2. The lock
3. 
   

With the door now open you will need to undo the bolts which hold the lock.

You will need a 20 spline bit for these.

It should now be free from the body work.

There is a little washer grommet about 1 inch from the top bolt.

Pop this off and inside there is a star drive bolt.

Undo this a couple of turns, open the handle and remove the little bit next to the handle.

Detach the door release cable from the handle.

 

Repeat the steps backwards and all will be fine.

 

Just a note, the door has a twin barrel thing. If you open with your fingers it will only partially open, to fully open the lock it needs to run against the holding pin. On the body work.

 

Any more questions please feel free to ask.  

 

[RobClubley]

Nice. Will move this to Octavia Technical Guides.

[geoffa]

I have this common problem of unopenable rear door.

 

I haven't started on it yet as want to be sure I can fix it.

 

This guide looks very good but when I did a dummy run on the other side (which does open) then I can see there are torx screws along the very bottom edge.  How do you remove these ?? I doesn't look as though the door panel will come off enough to get to them by reaching down between the panel and door and the plastic has to move into the cabin befor it can be lifted up.

 

Any advice from fellow sufferers will be most appreciated

[IulianE]

Is not worthing time and patience with theese door modules,I'm sorry ... you can buy new modules under 30pounds and they work perfect.I struggled to repair front module twice and lasted under 2 weeks,so I bought a new one wich is very good quality.

Edited 5 July, 2014 by IulianE

[Bowders1]

I repaired my Driver door lock 5 years ago and still going strong  :p

[johnmb]

The definitive guide to removing a broken lock (rear doors)

 

1.  
2. Removing the door card and keeping it intact.

This can be done and it is quite simple.

First of all remove the main handle. Do this by using a long screw driver and placing it against the handles rim to the fabric.

Forcibly push in to the handle and it should come away as two pieces. Remove the two holding bolts.

Put the window down.

If you look on the photo you will see a gap on the window seal.

Put the screw driver in here.

Using and upward motion, use it to lift the edge of the door card up and over the metal.

You should be able to see inside the door. using your hands, push hard away at the top 2 clips (left and right side) to gain more access. Hopefully they won’t break.

You will now be able to see the other clips.

Using a skinnier, but still long flat head, push it through the gap on the clip.

Push it left and right and it should come off.

Doing it this way should save the vast majority of your clips.

The door car will now be free.

 

1.  
2. Removing the lock A.K.A the pain bringer
3.  

At this point you have to be comfortable with crying. There will be a lot of it.

Remove the plug, internal handle cable and locking wire for better visibility and working area.

Using the screw driver and a lump hammer, knock away the top plastic part.

Once that is off you need to remove the metal cage. This is a ****!

Take time and patience and be careful where you hit. I missed and now I have a dent! FFS!

Once this is off there will be loads of plastic. Smash this away. It will be all gone when all you can see is the metal locking piece.

 

This is the culprit.

 

If you have cleared enough away, you should be able to reach it and open the door.

Hey presto, you’re free!

 

1.  
2. The lock
3.  

With the door now open you will need to undo the bolts which hold the lock.

You will need a 20 spline bit for these.

It should now be free from the body work.

There is a little washer grommet about 1 inch from the top bolt.

Pop this off and inside there is a star drive bolt.

Undo this a couple of turns, open the handle and remove the little bit next to the handle.

Detach the door release cable from the handle.

 

Repeat the steps backwards and all will be fine.

 

Just a note, the door has a twin barrel thing. If you open with your fingers it will only partially open, to fully open the lock it needs to run against the holding pin. On the body work.

 

Any more questions please feel free to ask.  

So what size is the 20 Bit Spline , as i started on my locks today , i found out half way through the job , and my Torx bits dont fit !!  Thanks

[tlangdon12]

The spline bit is 8mm.

 

I had a problem with a failed deadlock on the rear driver-side, and have just replaced it today. 

 

I found that cutting a hole in the lock casing as described in this link to the Fabia section was quite quick and easy and didn't result in any damage to the door:  http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/193291-remove-and-repair-deadlocked-rear-door/

 

I had trouble removing the electric connector, as it's not clear where clip is released from, but a thin screwdriver inserted into the clip in line with the electrical wires released it.  

 

To remove the lock once the door was open, the following sequence seemed best:

 

1) Remove the lock's flexible connection to the outer door handle - See Steps 18-20 in Bowder1's post #6 at http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/126257-octavia-1-replacing-door-latch-microswitch/

 

2) Remove the two bolts that secure the lock to the door.

 

3) Remove the cable from the internal door handle using a thin screwdriver to lever the cable out of the clip that is integral to the plastic housing of the lock, and then remove the  end of the cable from the slot on the lock. 

 

4) Unclip the rod that runs from the indicator button from its two clips on the door, and push the lock (inside the door) as far towards the rear of the car as it will go, this will bring the end of the rod nearest the indicator button to a position where is can be pulled easily from the plastic lever arm.

 

5) Pull the lock back to the position where it can be removed from the door,  but rotate the lock (end over end) as this allows the rod to be removed from the lock easily.

 

Hope this helps.