So happy with my Skoda for 2 years now. 0.65 litres per 10 km  even though I mostly drive 10 km back and forth to work in heavy city traffic.

This week first problem , clutch broke.

Manage to limp home without clutch on 3rd and 5th gear. All straight across the city of Gothenburg.

Not one single stop at red lights all the way. I was sooo lucky

 

If I press pedal and release, it goes up again like normal. No resistance though when pressing down.

So something is broken in mecanics or hydralic system.

 

Where to look first ?

a) pedal/master cylinder

b  ) hydralics, pipes etc.

c) slave cylinder at clutch house

 

Any hint on fixing clutch makes me happy

Will look at it this weekend

Thanks

Edited 2 September, 201312 yr by sidhabo

The clutch and brakes feed off the same reservoir so I think you need to by looking at the slave cylinder and beyond.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 4

The clutch and brakes feed off the same reservoir so I think you need to by looking at the slave cylinder and beyond.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 4

M, good point trundlenut. But master cylinder isn't same for clutch and brake or ....  ?

And thanks for superfast answer   My Swedish forum is more like wait for answer until next day he he

Edited 2 September, 201312 yr by sidhabo

The Master cylinder does the brakes and clutch.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 4

Check the brake fluid reservoir and then pump the clutch pedal.

Does it get firm if you keep pumping?

Do you loose fluid?

Check the brake fluid reservoir and then pump the clutch pedal.

Does it get firm if you keep pumping?

Do you loose fluid?

Will  try that. Don't think it will get firm. Didn't like some 5 times I pumped when it broke.

The Master cylinder does the brakes and clutch.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 4

Aha, thanks. Useful info for me.

Just had  to do a quick check in the garage 

Pumping pedal 10 times did nothing for brake oil level at all

And nothing else    he he , totally no resistance at all.

Next step will be checkup on slave cylinder, like trundlenut first said.

Is there any "most common problem" known in that area ?

Edited 2 September, 201312 yr by sidhabo

There doesn't seem to be a leak, but that doesn't mean that fluid isn't getting past the internal seal of the clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder.

I assume your car is an DLP or DUU code gearbox which is a 5-speed 02K.

In that case, it's just 2 bolts that hold in the slave cylinder.

Release the hose grommet from the bracket and undo the bolts. Whilst you hold the slave piston in, have a helper SLOWLY and GENTLY press the clutch pedal.

If it doesn't move, then the problem is with the clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder.

If it moves normally, then the problem it in the clutch.

Torque the bolts to 25Nm when refitting.

Thanks rwbaldwin for good info. I will use that in the coming weekend.

 

Spent an hour in the garage today. Lifted air cleaner, battery and battery plate. Then I could see slave cylinder real good.

And realized I could have seen it, just as well from below   he he.

Anyway, had someone  work the clutch pedal.  The lever worked as it should do.

So, next step, rip the clutch apart  i reckon. And removing of battery etc. was useful after all.

 

Thinking of jacking up  front, remove front wheel and then go from there until I can get to clutch house.

Is that going to work ?  Or do I have to lift/remove motor or gearbox ?

Any special "good to know about" in this exercise ?

Thanks

The clutch is between the gearbox and the engine, so the gearbox must come out to change the clutch. The LH mount supports the gearbox which supports the LH side of the engine, so you need an engine support beam.

The procedure will be similar to http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a4/transmission-removal-mk4.htm

The clutch is between the gearbox and the engine, so the gearbox must come out to change the clutch. The LH mount supports the gearbox which supports the LH side of the engine, so you need an engine support beam.

The procedure will be similar to http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a4/transmission-removal-mk4.htm

Thanks rwbaldwin. Real good link.  So I will be able to slip gearbox and clutch out  like sideways ?

You will need to pull the gearbox away from the engine until it separates and then drop it down.

The driveshafts often get in the way, so you may have to remove one of the driveshaft flanges to get it out. You will lose some oil if you do.

An alternative MAY be to remove the drop link to wishbone bolts. I've often thought it should work but I've never tried it.

I've just changed mine. There are a few pics on my Facebook page - have a look, might help:

 

https://www.facebook.com/pimpmyskoda

I've just changed mine. There are a few pics on my Facebook page - have a look, might help:

 

https://www.facebook.com/pimpmyskoda

M, some good pictures there. That is always helpful. Thanks Rob.

Ok, I bought myself a Haynes book. Probably worth it for this mission .... 

In their removal procedure for gear box they include draining the gearbox for oil.

Should not be necessary for my case ...   ?? Right ? Just want to lift gear box out of the way.

This question I asked myself after a 3 and a half hour roundtrip in Göteborg, looking to buy a 17 mm allen key.

Which is needed for the gear box oil plug.

First shop didn't have it. Second, car shop, that MUST have it .... closed 5 pm.      I was hoping for 6 pm,  so I was too late 

The 3 and a half hours was due to tram and bus travel.

I want my beautiful Skoda up and running     :(

Tried to get the gear box plug loose with a pretty sturdy plier. But it was really stuck. So I don't want to risk ruining the allan key seating.

But hope for I can just skip gear box drain ....

Else I'm pretty much setup for startup with the real work.

Jacked up, hood removed. Battery, front wheel and various covers off.

Made myself some wooden blocks to make jack up real steady and unharmful to body.

Not too bad with some wooden work now and then      ooops  where did that come from   

So plan for tomorrow is just go ahead .... forget about the gear box drain.

 

 

 

 

If you have to remove one of the flanges to get the box out, you will lose some gearbox oil.

If you have to remove one of the flanges to get the box out, you will lose some gearbox oil.

Ok, so you think i should  really drain the gear box before removal .. ?

The only reason for draining the oil, is so it doesn't leak all over you

See post #12. Try removing the the drop link to wishbone bolts. If you can get the gearbox out without removing a flange, then you won't lose any oil

How do I find post #12   

Sorry for my not knowing .....

If you have to drain it check you can undo the fill plug first, so you know you will be able to refill it.

 

As for post 12, look in the top right corner of each post - there is a number.

Each post in this thread has a number. You last post was #21. See top right of your last post.

Actually, you need to look at post #14 (not #12).

Ok, thanks got it .

 

Each post in this thread has a number. You last post was #21. See top right of your last post.

Actually, you need to look at post #14 (not #12).

Ok, thanks got it

According to Haynes you should disconnect exhaust pipe from back of cat.  Is it necessary. My experience  is you often ruin nut or bolt with these parts ....  like half of broken bolt left in the cat body.