I didn't! Maybe because you need to remove two engine mounts and lower the engine a bit?
Bentley workshop manual doesn't say that.

I didn't! Maybe because you need to remove two engine mounts and lower the engine a bit?

Bentley workshop manual doesn't say that

Thanks Rob, I'll try first without disconnect cat

Not in the flow today ....

Bolts for loosen drive shafts are some 16 notches torx whatever thing. So I have to go to the car shop all the same ...

Get the gear box drain tool also.

Also just stupid to try remove cover under gear box / motor in a proper way. Screws second next  beckwards is not possible to access from above

Have to cut them off inserting metal saw blade I guess.

Off to car shop   ...

....    and back now   

OmG they did NOT have 17 mm allen. Despise this is a real huge shop with just about any tool you need. But not this one. I will go for rwbaldwin's suggestion in post #14.

Got myself tool for drive shaft bolts, and also did shopping for a legacy type bar  and chains to  hold the motor/gearbox he he. 90 euros. Good price I think.

50 pounder all the way back home on public transports ...  

See if I can finally get something useful done today in the garage.

The shop will have a 17mm hex but it will be in a drain plug set - not with normal sockets.

Disconnecting the exhaust means that you will make space to get the gearbox out by levering the engine forward so the flanges don't catch on the driveshaft as you remove the gearbox. I would not attempt this unless I was certain I had a very good engine support beam. If it is the original exhaust, the factory applied hot bolt paste is excellent and usually allows you to undo the exhaust bolts. If it has been replaced then I don't fancy your chances of getting the bolts undone.

The reason I think removing the ARB drop link to wishbone bolts will work is that it allows the driveshafts to be pushed further out of the way.

Good luck.

The shop will have a 17mm hex but it will be in a drain plug set - not with normal sockets.

Disconnecting the exhaust means that you will make space to get the gearbox out by levering the engine forward so the flanges don't catch on the driveshaft as you remove the gearbox. I would not attempt this unless I was certain I had a very good engine support beam. If it is the original exhaust, the factory applied hot bolt paste is excellent and usually allows you to undo the exhaust bolts. If it has been replaced then I don't fancy your chances of getting the bolts undone.

The reason I think removing the ARB drop link to wishbone bolts will work is that it allows the driveshafts to be pushed further out of the way.

Good luck.

Well the joint at the backside of cat is a totally homemade mess up. Hope I don't have to go into that one .... We'll see.

Ok, I'll ask again at shop. Since I just asked for 17 mm allen last time.

I had to buy a 17mm impact wrench allen thingy as it was all they had, cost the equivalent of about 20 quid :( 

You might find it is double ended, but that doesn't matter if you have a socket or wrench for the other end.

Got stuck this evening on removing the gear chooser rod. Removed the mechanics that deals with moving the rod left/right. Now I have left what's moving it back/forward.

Got the two "ball joint rods" loose. Just can't get to the bolt and nut to remove the mount bracket so I can finally get the rod out of the gear box.

RH side bolt I can see from above but get no real space to be able to work it.

LH side nut I can't see from above or below. Just can barely feel it with my fingers if I go in from below.

Any good ideas on that one ?  Maybe it's better if I get the left drive shaft a bit out of the way ...

Not too easy ride with this babe ... 

Just have to keep working on it. Always find a way eventually.  Patience is all therre is to it.

Good pep talk. Thank you so much to myself 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2598360-DIY-VR6-12v-Transmission-Removal-Clutch-and-Flywheel-replacement.-with-PICS&highlight=VR6+12v+Transmission+Removal%2C+Clutch+Flywheel+replacement

 

Any help?

Guess a torx whould work too instead of the 17 mm allen  Is there a conversion table for that  :think:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2598360-DIY-VR6-12v-Transmission-Removal-Clutch-and-Flywheel-replacement.-with-PICS&highlight=VR6+12v+Transmission+Removal%2C+Clutch+Flywheel+replacement

 

Any help?

Nice, thanks Rob

Aaalrightie  Slooow and steady progress he he.

17 mm allen solved, so I drained the gearbox. Even got desperate enough to call the Skoda official spare part shop.

Real nice guy there told me "go elsewhere or you'll pay a fortune". So I made a couple of calls to hardware stores ... that solved it. 6 Euros.

Now I'm finally stuck with gearbox 1 inch out of motor. Dead stop there at the backside side of gearbox.

Did remove the little thingy rwbaldwin mentioned in post #14. That helped. Thanks rwbaldwin.

But still stuck.  Guess the RH drive shaft flange is the problem. Did not disconnect cat as yet.

Still it's a puzzle to me. I have not got gearbox enough out of motor to be able to move it sidways relative motor.

So it won't help me any  if I can move motor towards front of car.  Gearbox will just follow also ....

 

Next plan is to wait for support some evening next week. Bring my son in. Always so much more easy with an extra pair of hands and eyes.

Question  for today. If I end up deciding to remove RH drive shaft flange. Is it just pull hard ?

Did a little half hearted prying today. Flange seems pretty tight seated.

Is it just pulling hard or does it have to be in any special position ?

 

Thanks

Bosse

There is a bolt in the centre of the the flange that holds it in. Once the bolt is removed, the flange should come out easily.

There is a bolt in the centre of the the flange that holds it in. Once the bolt is removed, the flange should come out easily.

Thanks rwbaldwin. That was not in my Haynes .....

While waiting for next step I started compile a litte "tricky" doc on this. Will update it from time to time until the whole project is completed

 

http://www.sidhabo.org/div/ClutchRemovalSkodaOctaviaYear2000.pdf

 

Cheers

Btw, got tired of going public transport ... Bought myself a 1986  Opel Kadett for 140 Euros . Will scrap it in a few weeks I guess.

Good business:

a) 20 E of petrol left

b ) Pretty good winter tire set At least 100 E when I sell it winter coming

c) Left on car tax 50 E

d) Will get at least 50 E from scrap dealer ... maybe 100, all depend on day price of iron

 

Just saved 75 E going to my cottage for some more tools this weekend. Last weekend hired car was 75 E for a weekend

I had just forgotten how it is to drive without stearing servo   Like a tractor   he he

Think the old lady will hold up for a couple of weeks ...  enjoy being  on wheels again  all the same

 

Cheers

Edited 15 September, 201312 yr by sidhabo

Oki hi folks ... My beautiful Skoda is on the road since 1 week ago

Thanks a lot for all support you gave me

I have updated my little doc on the problems I had

Hope it get useful for someone else

Exercise is not for some total newbie to car mechanics, but all in all totally doable in my pretty small rented garage attached to my apartment

Really need some odd mix of tools  ..... which I love to have

Updated howto:

 

http://www.sidhabo.org/div/ClutchRemovalSkodaOctaviaYear2000.pdf

Edited 11 October, 201312 yr by sidhabo

I'm glad you got it back on the road.

One thing to note, is your instructions/photos are only for the 02K gearbox. IIRC, it's only fitted to the SDI and 1.4/1.6l petrol.

I'm glad you got it back on the road. One thing to note, is your instructions/photos are only for the 02K gearbox. IIRC, it's only fitted to the SDI and 1.4/1.6l petrol.

From Haynes instructions I gather it is for the 02K gearbox ...