Is Supagard worth it?

[Anastasis]

Thanks again everyone for still more replies.

 

To update you, I phoned a local car valeting company today who told me to do a Supagard treatment inside and out would be £275 which provides a 12 month guarantee.

 

The guy I spoke to said that they also offer what they consider to be a better treatment called Liquid Armour (not sure this is how it is spelt) which costs £325 and provides a 3 year guarantee.

 

For both treatment options they would need the car for a day.

 

As these quotes are still at the same level I won't be taking advantage of the services. Maybe these types of services are really pitched at owners of very high value cars for whom £300 to protect several tens of thousand pounds worth of car feels more worth it.

 

I would think though that the products the valeters use to provide these services costs only a fraction of the cost of the supplied treatment. I don't have an issue with that in one sense because if you are having a car serviced you are going to pay £50 or more per hour so why not the same for valeting?

 

My issue is that I would not pay that much for the service provided as it is a non-essential. I could though, I guess, opt to apply these treatments myself. Is that wise or does it really require an expert to do that job? And if I could do it where can I buy the products used?

 

Thanks again.

 

Peter

[oldstan]

My record is with Collinite 476S - 12 months of wax protection and beading on an everyday car, that spends all it's time outside and only receives regular 'maintenance' hand washes.

 

Yes, I have that too but find it just a little harder work than the 845...but it could be even better...haven't really noticed a difference myself.

 

The OP, Anastasis, doesn't seem to have commented on either of our experiences with either 845 or 476s Insulator Wax or referred to the hundreds of posts I directed him/her to via the search facility.  At £16 I'd have thought it was something at least worth a look compared to the £250 - £350 currently being considered....but hey ho.

[Wardy]

On the 476S question, my experience tells me it's in the application and taking care to apply as small and thin layer as possible, and not to leave it on the paint too long. Prep also comes into it, as for me it's going onto paint that's been machined polished twice, then sealed. That makes the paint a lot more smooth and uniform, so the surface is more easy to remove the wax from.

 

On the price of applying these treatments, you're then into a veritable minefield. Dealers at the bottom, through valeters, upto detailers of their varying levels. So at the top end, for expensive vehicles, you'd be into the £ '0000s. All relative I suppose.

 

If it were me doing it, I'd perhaps charge £200-300 for a full exterior detail. While that might sound expensive to some, you're talking about somewhere in the region of 8-10 hrs spent. Labour time, plus the products used is therefore pretty reasonable - all depends on your outlook

[LadyVienna]

Ive decided im going to cancel the supagard i had ordered frmo the dealer. If I decide to do it I will book it through an actual supagard detailer

[Defenderben]

The thing autoglym lifeshine claim is to offer a Comprehensive warranty for the lifetime of your ownership?

Not too sure how all the small print stacks up and at what point you could claim for it to be reapplied if not entirely happy but worth looking into.

Especially if a valeter is only offering a 12 month warranty for similar money?

All I can say is my car positively glows after a quick wash and "lifeshine" was applied 12 months ago when the dealer first registered the car.

Typical damp day look of my roof but my whole car incl the glass beads up.

Not applied anything since "lifeshine" 12 months ago, just regular sponge/shampoo wash and a dry.

Not sure if the beading is any good but it all falls off as soon as I boot it up the hill

Edited 6 September, 2013 by Defenderben

[Anastasis]

@oldstan @wardy My apologies for seeming to ignore your posts and the advice you have given. That wasn't my intention. I have been blown away by the number of responses and clearly my latest reply ignored the advice you have given - I am sorry about that  

 

Googling Collinite it certainly gets some great reviews and at the prices I have found it for it is not expensive as people like yourselves are saying it works!

 

Some questions about Collinite ...

 

How long would you say it would take to apply the Collinite wax (either the 746 or 845) to a Citigo? Do you advise a special cloth or sponge?

 

How much would one can of it do?

 

How do you apply it to the alloy wheels as some people also recommend using it on those? Is it just a case of dissolving the wax in a bucket of warm water and then sponging them?

 

What would be your recommendation for interior protection for the plastic and more importantly as far as spillages and dirty feet are concerned on the fabric seats and carpets?

 

@Defenderben thanks too for your recommendation about Autoglym Lifeshine and the photo. That's impressive beading. I guess that beading like that must say something about the protection for the paintwork, but as you can see I have limited knowledge about these treatments.

 

Peter

[oldstan]

@oldstan @wardy My apologies for seeming to ignore your posts and the advice you have given. That wasn't my intention. I have been blown away by the number of responses and clearly my latest reply ignored the advice you have given - I am sorry about that  

 

Googling Collinite it certainly gets some great reviews and at the prices I have found it for it is not expensive as people like yourselves are saying it works!

 

Some questions about Collinite ...

 

How long would you say it would take to apply the Collinite wax (either the 746 or 845) to a Citigo? Do you advise a special cloth or sponge?

 

How much would one can of it do?

 

How do you apply it to the alloy wheels as some people also recommend using it on those? Is it just a case of dissolving the wax in a bucket of warm water and then sponging them?

 

What would be your recommendation for interior protection for the plastic and more importantly as far as spillages and dirty feet are concerned on the fabric seats and carpets?

 

@Defenderben thanks too for your recommendation about Autoglym Lifeshine and the photo. That's impressive beading. I guess that beading like that must say something about the protection for the paintwork, but as you can see I have limited knowledge about these treatments.

 

Peter

 

1. Couple of hours absolute max. Do it when cool and dry - def. not sunny.  Wash car thoroughly beforehand. You can buy applicators on Ebay but I use a small (3"x3") square of that synthetic wash leather material you use instead of a chamois.

2. A bottle of 845 would literally last years...you use it very sparingly.

3. Wheels exactly same as body.  Maybe do them inside and out when you rotate the wheels back to front to even out wear.

4. Any one of the proprietary products by Autoglym or Halfords....or Lidl waterproofing spray when they have it in stock (cheap as chips and works fine).  Loads of spray silicone for interior and exterior plastic...been using it for decades and works OK.  Check out a couple of detailers forums for more specific  (OCD?) treatments.

 

It's a Citigo, If it was a Ferrari I suppose I could see why you might want to spends loads on detailing just on principle as that's what Ferrari owners do - but do you really need it?  I honestly don't think so. 

[oxonboxn]

Could I just add my opinions to those already expressed? Firstly, I believe that dealer-applied treatments are not worth paying for, and any "guarantee" dubious.

Secondly, I am another Collinite user (the liquid Insulator Wax 845) , very economical, easy to apply/remove and very durable.

And finally, to prevent damage when washing (fine scratches)- don't use a sponge or brush, use a lambswool (or more realistically microfibre) washmitt and DON'T use a chamois for drying, use a microfibre drying towel. You will keep surface scratching to an absolute minimum.

There's lots of good advice (and products) on the "polished bliss" website, of which I am a very satisfied user - but careful, it can become obsessive!

 

 

http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/

[oxonboxn]

....forgot to say, the Collinite 845 is brilliant at protecting alloys...makes washing them SO much easier.

[Anastasis]

Thank you @oldstan and @oxonboxn

 

Yes, using a valeting service is definitely off the agenda now. The Collinite product looks ideal. Thank you for the info on that as well as what to use for interior protection + the tips on how best to apply it.

 

Prior to delivery the dealer is of course going to prepare the car to make it all spick and span. Should I wait a couple of weeks or so before I do this treatment or as soon after as I can? I presume the dealer will just wash and wax the car, but will I need to do anything to remove whatever they put on the bodywork prior to applying Collinite myself?

 

Peter

[oxonboxn]

Peter...most on here will agree that valeters at dealers are, at best, decidedly average....and some are dreadful. Your car will have been "prepared" by them ie. washed and dried off - nothing will have been applied unless you ask (and pay!) for it.

I would take the car home and examine it carefully to make sure you are satisfied (you'll not feel like doing this at the dealers - or forget!) ; then when you wash and dry it for the first time yourself...that's when to apply your Collinite. (Years ago, people would leave the paint for several weeks to "harden", but that no longer applies).

If you look at the "Car Care Advice" on the website I mentioned above, you will find lots of invaluable tips, advice and help... you can even contact them for specific advice if you need to.

[oldstan]

Peter...most on here will agree that valeters at dealers are, at best, decidedly average....and some are dreadful. Your car will have been "prepared" by them ie. washed and dried off - nothing will have been applied unless you ask (and pay!) for it.

I would take the car home and examine it carefully to make sure you are satisfied (you'll not feel like doing this at the dealers - or forget!) ; then when you wash and dry it for the first time yourself...that's when to apply your Collinite. (Years ago, people would leave the paint for several weeks to "harden", but that no longer applies).

If you look at the "Car Care Advice" on the website I mentioned above, you will find lots of invaluable tips, advice and help... you can even contact them for specific advice if you need to.

 

 

.....wot 'e said.

 

Collinite has no abrasive quaities.  It won't remove anything more than a rudimentary amount of road film or muck and bullets.

 

I'm no expert but was recommended 3M Imperial Handglaze (Part No. 05990) many years ago and have always had a bottle in the garage. I use it to clean paintwork (after having washed the car, of course) if there's actual film or dirt etc. on the surface.  It'd good for minor scratches too....not as fierce as T Cut and certainly not as abrasive as Rubbing Compound, but does clean paint well.  It has to be said the Handglaze and Collinite are all I rely on and seem to have been OK with it for a long time.

 

I use Autoglym glass cleaner mostly...although occasionally meths or something spirit based like cellulose thinners on glass for severe stains (very rarely though).

[Didescharlie]

Could I just add my opinions to those already expressed? Firstly, I believe that dealer-applied treatments are not worth paying for, and any "guarantee" dubious.

 

 

What's dubious about the guarantee (and why the quote marks)? The Autoglym guarantee is pretty no quibble to be fair, and Briskoda members have had to call on it with satisfactory resolution to their problems, particularly with regards to the interior protection.

[DILLIGAFF]

I went for the "Lifeshine" but badgered the salesman to include it in the price as a sweetener.

 

Maybe for this reason I don't notice much difference to any other car, but the guarantee and the bag of goodies is nice.

 

Maybe have a look at 3M's product............. http://www.3mventureshield.co.uk/paint-protection-film/

 

Don't know the likely cost though?

[MickA]

Just read my Lifeshine warranty.

It pretty much makes it clear that anything like insect/bird droppings, industrial fallout, tree sap etc that falls on your car (talking externally) must be removed ASAP. So if these fall on your car and cause damage it's not covered on your warranty, well that's how I read it anyway. Just about all the stuff that falls on my car are the above, with exception to the industrial fall out, unless you call farmers ploughing the fields opposite and getting all the fall out from that everywhere, car included. Clean the car with clean grit free sponge/cloths using their products. What if you were to use something equally as good or better, are you covered?

Having said all this thankfully my car is looking good due to the care I give it, so it must be working, either my cleaning skills and care, or the Lifeshine treatment. But thinking that someone could expect it to protect their car against everyday muck, fall out is wrong. You still have to put the effort in really, and buy more of their products.

You can see where I'm going on this, that's why it's call Lifeshine, keep buying their products keep applying them. I do anyway, always have done but if you don't then is warranty valid?

[Didescharlie]

Here's another thread on the subject:

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/258722-supaguard/?hl=%2Blifeshine+%2Bpaint#entry3044212

[MickA]

I've read quite a few threads on the subject and many, many detailing websites and advice from actual detailers.

All pro detailers will tell you to apply a sealer and wax after polishing as a basic protection, for saying Autoglym use professionals they don't say this. All they say is use Aqua wax regularly, to me that's not enough.

Hmmm....I'm no expert and love to know what they actually apply to the painted surface to give it a protective coat? Is it removed if say you used their Super Resin Polish? I'ved used that on the Citigo gently to remove stubborn marks, swashed flys etc but more so to cut in paint and other very stubborn marks on the other cars I've owned. It is very good and gentler than T-cut or similar products.

Incidently I paid £160 for the Lifeshine, it was reduced to get me to bite to buy it. You get the bag of goodies with it which could be worth £50 on it's own so a good deal? Well at that price maybe so but I may not bother should I have the urge to buy another new car.

[Didescharlie]

I'm no expert and love to know what they actually apply to the painted surface to give it a protective coat? Is it removed if say you used their Super Resin Polish? I'ved used that on the Citigo gently to remove stubborn marks, swashed flys etc but more so to cut in paint and other very stubborn marks on the other cars I've owned. It is very good and gentler than T-cut or similar products. Incidently I paid £160 for the Lifeshine, it was reduced to get me to bite to buy it. You get the bag of goodies with it which could be worth £50 on it's own so a good deal? Well at that price maybe so but I may not bother should I have the urge to buy another new car.

 

Bag of goodies is £80 or so, although buying everything individually from Halfrauds would maybe double that. It's interesting that you say "I'd love to know..." as it highlights how little information there is on the process involved. Doing this is hardly in the realm of the magic circle, yet it seems bloody impossible to find out the process. It also seems ridiculous that Autoglym put their name to something which is then diluted in perceived quality by the fact that correct application is so much at the whim of the dealers.

[oxonboxn]

What's dubious about the guarantee (and why the quote marks)? The Autoglym guarantee is pretty no quibble to be fair, and Briskoda members have had to call on it with satisfactory resolution to their problems, particularly with regards to the interior protection.

 

The quote marks- simply because I was referring back to a word that had already been used...I normally do this. Perhaps incorrectly?

The reason I said "dubious"...well, that's been explained for me, in MickA's 11:04 post...there is too much in the small print, too many conditions and too many variables for my liking.