Anyone had issue with the rear hubs sticking???

It seems to be occasional but enough to genrate some heat to warm the centre of the wheel (imbalenced from the other side) on was slighty warm if you could call that the other was enough to compare luke warm water.

Now its recently had its 40,000 mile (bout 2000mile ago) am i right in saying on this service the drums are removed and cleaned???

I want to book this in to sort but at the same time i dont want them to worm out of it try charge me for what i feel could be warranty issue or their intervention in servicing caused it.

Its defentaly not what i would put down to "wear and tear" a two old car shouldnt have brakes that bind.

Your thoughts and opinions?

No guarantee that the Drums were removed at the 2 year 20,000 mile service, or 40,000 mile, did you get the Brake fluid changed at 30,000 miles or 40,000. (or being left to 3 years)

EDIT, sorry was thinking 3 years old on the car, forgot only 2 years.

 

?? Is it on Variable Servicing for Oil & Filter?

 

Is there an invoice & a '40 point Health Check list'  ALL TICKED,or the likes, that you got after servicing? 'The Inspection Service'.

Maybe the Hand Brake cable was adjusted at 40,000 miles, maybe the drums were off,  but you need some indication from those that serviced it.

 

http://skoda.co.uk/owners/service-and-maintenance/national-pricing/servicing

 

Cable tension and shoes need checked, so you need to get the Drums off. The Bearings need checked.

 

 

george

Well its done 42,000 last service 40k marked everything (except my tyres at the time) as green service book also states drums removed and cleaned.

Ive noticed onces or twice the handbrake stick on the same side put kind of ignored it as lack of use.

Used to drive it daily now just 3 or 4 times a week

Well had to drive the car from girlfriends home and the issue is got to stage its cant be driven smell of hot brakes (something ive not smelt before on this car) and the drum boilng by comprison.

Obviously its not in a posistion to drive to a dealer.

So am entitled to call the breakdown number and have the car recovered?

This issue has always been on the fabia both mine used to do it! , only one solution I'm afraid ( in winter ) don't lift the handbrake ! Really poor design ! But only leave the handbrake off on a level camber or just biting also leave in gear plus wedges , this usually happens in really damp conditions / winter ,during the warmer months its ok

What concerns me is damage ive done and how long this has been doing it. As you cant feel anybrake applied to the wheel when drivng. It only since ive notice the noise and then the smell of hot brakes.

Is this something i can sorted by waranty or are they likely to try and push the blame my way?

Pull the hand brake well on, trying not to hard, But full on, then let it off, start a gentle drive, a few yards.

You could move the car, let the hand brake off, then apply a little bit, then reverse a few feet, then try again a little more applied.

See if free,

if it is binding on, and you feel that it will stay binding on, then call Skoda Assist.

 

If you feel you can drive around the block safely & without speed and slightly pull on the hand brake and see if it frees, then maybe do that.

If in doubt call Skoda Assist.

 

You had the Car serviced 200 miles ago, there is either a fault, or a fault they caused.

Who knows if a warranty item or not, but you still are in Warranty and you need it checked anyway.

Sounds like hand brake adjustment too far on, just not releasing. They will check easily enough.

Skoda Assist Technician will maybe comment which will be good for you.

 

george

The service was 2000miles ago end of June

Il give you advice ago and see what i find

Edited 8 September, 201312 yr by CRASH67

The cars doing plenty of miles, i am surprised it is binding, but then anything can and does happen.

 

If the shoes are binding and have caused the heat, they may well be needing changed now.

So the drums need to come off, see the shoes & wear and also see the adjuster.

 

george

The cars doing plenty of miles, i am surprised it is binding, but then anything can and does happen.

 

If the shoes are binding and have caused the heat, they may well be needing changed now.

So the drums need to come off, see the shoes & wear and also see the adjuster.

 

george

This was my thinking. But to be fair to it since getting. Work van the car gets used 2 or 3 evenings and all weekend (basically on doing personal journeys to avoid company vehicle tax)

So its possibly due to standing more of the week. But still wouldn't expect that from a 2 year old car.

I certainly wont drive it to a dealer as its another5/10miles and i don't want risk casing more damage.

Il most likely get skoda to look at it but request no chargeable work to be done. Should they decide its a chargeable repair, il get work to recover it in and get one of lads at work to fix for me

Once in and on the ramp & checked and the Drums are off, its hardly worth taking it away.

 

It needs new Shoes which you will probably have to pay for, or there is an Adjuster or Seized Brake Cable, or the likes.

Up to you to see what goodwill you get from them or you pay for shoes and not labour.

 

If it is a wheel bearing or similar then its needing replaced under warranty.

 

Do not have anyone else touch it,

that is if you can not take the wheel & drum off today or have a trusted person do it.

Just to see what the story is.

 

The garage will know if their technician did remove the Drums when doing the service and check he Brakes or just cut corners and save 20-30 minutes.

I would check or have a mechanic friend check now how tight they torqued the rear wheel nuts on.

 

george

The problem with that is, at the last service my tyres needed doing which got done else where so i have no reference point as such, other then that the tyre company that done had trouble removing the wheels (ie they needed a bit of thump) but this was 2-3 weeks after said service so tbh i didnt think id get any joy by making a point of it.

Now should it be a adjuster do you think its something you would notice an issue with 2months before it could fair???

Now that you are giving more info, then there are different things here.

 

If the Tyre centre had trouble removing the wheels not long after the service, that might indicate the wheels were never off the car in the recent past. Not off possibly any time in the 40,000 miles and 2 years. (Certainly when off, no grease applied between the Steel Drum, Hub, & Alloy Wheel.)

So get that across to the Servicing Garage.

ASK THEM,  ?? Did you remove the wheels at the service or did you not?

Where the Drums removed and the Rear Brake Shoes inspected?

**If the wheels were not off, then the DRums were not off., obviously.**

 

They know if their Technicians do or not do the job they get paid for.

If not, then they need to get their act together.

 

Second thing is that you need to be sure that the Tyre Fitting Centre have put the Wheels on and just tightened to the correct Torque.

 

Anyway,

you now need the car looked at, Call Skoda Assist if you are not driving it too the garage.

The brakes need serviced or at least checked.

 

george

If you feel confident to work on the braking system, I have a few basic suggestions regarding brakes.

 

The handbrake in a drum brake is often left on for long periods - perhaps many days or weeks. In summer this is usually not a problem. But in winter or a damp autumn you can get condesation between the brake shoe and the drum. This causes corrosion of the drum under the shoe. So if you plan to leave the car for more than a few hours leave the handbrake off. At its worst the corrosion locks the leading shoe onto the drum and you have to rock the car backwards and forwards ac ouple of times to free it.

 

All brakes benefit from a regular check, clean and re-grease. My non Skoda car (I have 2 cars) has disk brakes all around and I do this once a year. My Skoda has just reached 3 years old (tomorrow - MOT) and I will be doing the front brakes during the next couple of weeks. I suggest that you clean the obvious mechanical bits plus cleaning the calliper pistons under the outer weather seal. This is the seal which is visible when you take out the pads. If you dismantle the brake assembly,put a block in the calliper to avoid the piston coming out and then press the brake pedal a couple of times you can extend the piston safely. Then use cotton buds to clean out the old grease from under the weather seal. It will probably be a rusty brown colour.

 

Get a small syringe from our local chemist. A plastic 5ml syringe is £1 or less. Get some red rubber grease via the internet:-

 

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Product.do?method=view&n=2079&p=425233&c=215&utm_source=Google&utm_medium=Base&utm_campaign=Grease&gclid=CN7BwNKxu7kCFfQetAodXX0AsA

 

http://www.emotorspares.co.uk/millers-oils-red-rubber-grease-500g-9017-p.asp?gclid=CP2cktOxu7kCFY_KtAodmFQADQ

 

or similar.

 

A tub will last years.

 

Use the syringe to inject about 5ml under the weather seal while the pitson is extended. Then press the piston back into the calliper. I use a G clamp to do this.The piston now has a good supply of grease around it. This lubricates the inner hydraulic seal and keep water out. The brakes are protected when  dunked in a flood or similar. Remember to press the brake pedal a couple of times after doing this cleaning/greasing to ensure you have effective brakes immediately when you drive away.

 

If you don't do this and the disk brake piston seizes in the calliper you can use WD40 to free it as a temporary measure. I recommend you then carry out this cleaning and greasing process as soon as possible after.

 

I use copper filled grease on the ends of the pads where they sit inside the calliper. The prevent the two parts corroding together. I also use a little of this grease on the back of the pads. It helps avoids the pads 'squealing' when you operate the brakes.

 

You can also use the red grease on the pistons in the drum brake but using less grease. The grease is also to be used if you have to replace the seals in the rear cylinders when they start to leak.

 

The red grease is only to be used on the rubber seals around the hyraulic system. It is not a lubricant for metal on metal. It was once possible to buy waterproof heavy grease for the mechanical links on the hanbrake and similar applications. The best I have found recently is an aerosol spray intended for motorcycle chains. The grease is dissolved in solvent which ensures it penetrates the pivots and slides and then hardens making it very effective at freeing these joints. It is OK on screwed adjusters like the one at the back of the handbrake lever under the central console.

 

Other than that use plenty of standard bearing grease except inside the brake drum. Small amounts of grease on the adjusting wedge and under the feet of the brake shoes is allowed. You could use copper filled grease at these points as it is less prones to melting at higher temperatures. This means it is less likely to melt onto the drum surface and get onto the brake shoes.

 

If you suffer a seal failure in either of the drum cylinderss, you can clean the shoes with warm water and washing up liquid provided you do so soon after the leak starts. If the shoes become swollen and soft, change them when replacing the seals or the complete piston assembly.

 

If you get grease on the brake material (pads or shoes) wipe off as much as possible. My experience is that any remaining grease quickly burns off once the brake is used. However, it may leave the braking system unbalanced for a few miles and the car may pull strongly to one side. So treat the car carefully after servicing the brakes in the way described here.

 

A final suggestion. When driving conditions permit on a flat road or in a large car park, apply the brakes firmly while stationary. Drive the car forward at low speed and allow it stop naturally (not braking). It should stop smoothly. If there is a small jerk causing the front of the car to dip immediatey before stopping there is probably a sticking brake. Start by checking the nearside front disk as this brake suffers more from dirt and corrosion. You can repeat this check by applying the handgrake firmly etc. However, the handbrake is much less effective than the disk brakes so the jerk is similarly less. These check can be carried out anywhere at almost any time and act as a useful guarantee that your brakes are not sticking.

 

Sorry if this is a long story. It is the result of many years of coping with car brakes and their shortcomings.

Is the car under a Service Plan, or did you pay or the last service after the service.

(you not being a home/DIY car maintainer.)

 

Which ever,

do not pay this price for the new shoes if they are required,

that is if they are cutting corners and not removing wheels & Drums if fitted per service schedule. & reporting the work required to the car owners.

Which needs paying for as the Service is very limited in that its Fluids & Inspection, not much in the way of Maintenance Car and adjustments. (more cr4p about Wash & vaccuum car rather than proper maintenance)

http://www.skoda.co.uk/owners/service-and-maintenance/national-pricing/maintenance

 

Post #14

sets out what car and vehicles do need doing, 

not many owners pay others to do that properly for them.

 

Owners that have no idea can maybe do a Evening Class on car maintenance to have some idea how to.

Or pay proper Mechanics to do it, rather than paying Fitter/Technicians.

Sorry, I should add to my reply that these suggestions are only meant for a standard car operating on the road. Special high performance brakes or cars used on track days face more exptreme conditions where more exotic materials may be required.

Its not under a service plan(stupidly) but its only ever been to skoda for its serving.

All ive done is organised parts and oil (they wouldnt offer discount so i apporached TPS as we get trade prices for our VW parts and service vans)

Ive only ever witnessed my oil service and inspections done so couldnt comment.

Have looked through this site i have seen much in the way of bad feedback. But that being said there is a dealer a little bit further thats highly regarded amungst members in Kent but sadly due to where i live and work the dealer im using is most convenient to me.

Im starting to doubt they have removed wheel or drums but how can bring this 2months after the event and over month ago since they tyres were done?

Me and my step dad (who quite technically minded) will give it quick look given what i have read here we will not removed anything but just determine wether it safe enough to drive as i have found out that get skoda assist i should of filled a form out and sent off (im doing that now)

I will then ring the dealer and make the arrangements to sort it. Im unsure wether to rip in to them now or let them check and report findings/solutions first, as being in the industry i know service advisor don't enjoy being given crap before given the chance to solve the problem lol

Using the car isnt a issue as my work van is on the drive

Just a word on the greases for those that need to know.  Each has a purpose & this is for a reason.

 

Red Rubber Grease in non Petroleum based, so for Rubber, just small amounts, looks expensive for a small tube,but you use very little. last years.

(a tub would last a lifetime to many)

Other Greases can perish or ruin rubber and seals.

http://www.redrubbergrease.com

Copper Slip, use sparing but its high temp and good, do not use really as a general Lube

& be aware of how it should be used and where..

 

High Temp Moly for CV's etc.

Water Proof Greases & White Greases all different purposes.

Brake Cleaner just worth its weight.

Release Oil, proper stuff not WD 40, worth its weight.

 

Over oiling can be a problem, capillary action can leave surfaces dry & un-lubricated,

so more is not always better, you use just enough, you do not over lube things.

 

WD 40, a jack of all trades and needs used as a water dispersant, short term lube, but can strip lubrication as is the point from 'SlowBlokes' excellent post,

best used for household or Push Bike and the odd electrical use,

Keep it away from car brakes, except as said in an emergency.

Thanks for the advice George as i say i work in trade but only as a parts advisor, where most of knowledge and exprience focus around trucks and Vans (mainly Merc, MAN, Mitsubishi, Hino, Iveco) and dealing with suspected warranty issue from the opposite side of the counter is all new too me lol so used to owning 6+ year old cars and repairing by any means needed lol.

Im far more wary of a vehicle in warranty hence why I've made a point of having serviced at a dealer and the same dealer whos looked after it from new (Im the cars 2nd owner) its leaves the dealer very little places to shift the blame.

Ant to be fair to this dealer they have been kind chatty and helpful with questions and servicing. So lets see how they deal with a problem. This will defentaly have some influence if i use this dealer going forward. As I'm really doubting if they removed the drums at all now

Well that about decides it. Drove the car down my street radio off window down andnyou can just hear friction between drum and shoe. Again no feel of it pull the car or noatble braking force.

Its that slight you can remove the handbrake and push your self but again you can hear the shoe on disc.

Question is should i really drive to the dealer? Its approx 7miles of 30/40mph roads?

Front is pads on vented discs. so easy to see the surface corrosion cleared off.

Rear is Shoes inside the Drums. so needs a little more to get corrosion off the braking surface and cleared.

But not much. you really need to see how much material left on the shoes.

 

Just go out and do some driving on a safe back road and do some running with a slight pressure on the brake pedal then after doing that,

some driving with the hand brake on a little.

Only hundreds of yards, and gentle.

You can do some braking faster once all free and running without grinding.

 

You maybe are already needing the new Rear Shoes.

 

Just needing freeing off and some light corrosion probably.

happens overnight on the discs, and can in the drums if you were wading through water at any point.

 

(and as 'SlowBloke' said, Moisture and condensation in Drums, mostly Winter & day/night temp changes,

and why to leave the hand brake off if the chance of freezing on.)

Carry a couple of Bricks around.

Not joking ,i know its 2013, but brakes are no more advanced than 50 years ago.

 

?How many clicks up are needed to pull the hand brake on, not to being hard on, but just on and holding ?

 

george

3 to 4 from memory iirc the dealer adjusted them at service

And probably the adjustment is too much.

(that should not be a problem, they are self adjust.)

& soon after a bit of running the shoe wears down enough,

or as you had, keeps heating up and you smell over heating brake shoe material.

(like with HGV's and binding brakes, just not so bad.)

 

They should have seen how much the shoes had left on them with a 40,000 mile car.

They should have checked the Hand Brake Cable for corrosion & condition.

 

So  why the drums were to be removed.

So that gets us back to post #1.

 

Ask them to check the Brakes for free gratis if they are going to admit they took money for the service and never removed the drums at 40,000 miles.

 

george

Well the more i think about the more its skodas problem,

If something has failed 2000miles after a service like a brake adjust there must of been some evidence of a potential failure??? But I've attached my service sheet and book. And according to whats ticked they claim the drums were removed and they marked everything as ok on the visual inspection