These look interesting, CANBUS error free...http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/T10-501-501-T10-4SMD-1-SIDE-5050-CANBUS-4-SMD-1-SIDES-White-LED-Light-/170729812132P

Bought a set, when the car arrives mid November will fit and update.

Bought a set, when the car arrives mid November will fit and update.

Me too, should have the car next week!

P

Sent from my HTC One max using Tapatalk

Me too, should have the car next week!

P

Sent from my HTC One max using Tapatalk

 

 

Do these simply replace the existing bulbs then?

 

Cheers

Should just slip in without any hassle, so should any of the shorter capless one's as far as I can see.

These look interesting, CANBUS error free...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/T10-501-501-T10-4SMD-1-SIDE-5050-CANBUS-4-SMD-1-SIDES-White-LED-Light-/170729812132

P

These look interesting, CANBUS error free...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/T10-501-501-T10-4SMD-1-SIDE-5050-CANBUS-4-SMD-1-SIDES-White-LED-Light-/170729812132

P

Put these on mine. They work. Will get photos when dark

They DO throw up an error however. Damn

Edited 3 November, 201312 yr by baker1493

Put these on mine. They work. Will get photos when dark

They DO throw up an error however. Damn

Gah, that sucks. Needs coding for LEDs in VCDS then I guess?

P

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Yep, installed my LED's

 

They look great but yes they do through up the license plate bulb error. Anyone know how to fix this?

 

Also installed them in the boot left and right lights.

 

Discount from the seller - www.autosiliconehoses.com 15% off code: 'ASHHOSE'

 

Pics attached

Edited 3 November, 201312 yr by NotSoSimple

Is there a way to 'acknowledge' the error on the dash so that it goes away?

The only way to permanently sort it is with VCDS I'm afraid.

It isn't, put resistors in like I did:

The system works as normal so if one does fail mine still flashes up whereas doing it through VCDS doesn't.

In total with resistors it wasn't cheap a t all but well worth money to have genuine lights that look genuine, better colour of light and actually shine on the plate correctly

They don't look very bright though.

 

And those cables are they home made or "proper" item specific ones? 

They don't look very bright though.

And those cables are they home made or "proper" item specific ones?

The brightness is because it was daylight at the time of photo and that they point towards the number plate rather than straight down due to be genuine VW lights, they are a hell of a lot brighter than standard. They are specific resistors with the correct adapters to fit between the car and number plate light.

If I remember I'll get a photo of them at night

And how much do they add to the cost if you don't mind me asking?

In total to have genuine vw number plate modules and the resistors its cost £62 which yes that is a lot of money, but as iv said earlier we have spent between £23,000 - £27,000 on a car why scrimp and buy cheap tacky bulbs.

Im over moon with the addition and improves the classy look of the car.

but as iv said earlier we have spent between £23,000 - £27,000 on a car why scrimp and buy cheap tacky bulbs.

In that light you could also argue that because you have spent so much on the car why not code the car correctly?

On older cars where the coding does not work then there is no choice but to use resistors (or additional W5W bulbs), but where it does work why not do it the way it would have been done if it was done in the factory (I appreciate it is not an factory option on some models)

In that light you could also argue that because you have spent so much on the car why not code the car correctly?

On older cars where the coding does not work then there is no choice but to use resistors (or additional W5W bulbs), but where it does work why not do it the way it would have been done if it was done in the factory (I appreciate it is not an factory option on some models)

In what sense do you mean code it properly? If i used VCDS then the system wouldn't recognised that there was a light failure and fail to warn me, so using resistors in my opinion is the correct way as the system works as intended and warns of any failures in the lighting.

I mean coded as it would have been done from the factory, resistors (and additional bulbs for that matter) are a crude way of doing it as all they are doing is wasting the extra wattage(?) by turning into heat.

I had no choice with our MY11 Superb and TT because the coding does not work, but from 2012 onwards you should be fine.

Did you buy the resistors from VW? Do you have an item code? Can you explain the procedure needed? Ive purchased some led bulbs that throw up the error code, so im thinking if i get these resistors that would be job done. Thanks in advance )

I mean coded as it would have been done from the factory, resistors (and additional bulbs for that matter) are a crude way of doing it as all they are doing is wasting the extra wattage(?) by turning into heat.

I had no choice with our MY11 Superb and TT because the coding does not work, but from 2012 onwards you should be fine.

On my mk2 i had cheap bulbs in and used vcds to switch the warning light off, but when they failed numerous times it didn't flag up and tell me.

I know where your coming from but id rather have the system all working, suppose its down personally needs haha, for what heat would be produced I'm not worried, i think its 6 watts that is needed to switch the warning light off.

May I also ask for the details on the resistor route? I have the bulbs, but do not know enough about the wiring of resistors etc to make up the part myself.

 

Can you buy the wiring with resistors off the shelf? If not is there someone who wants to sell me a set!?

 

As an aside, I reached out to the seller of the bulbs to tell him that its not a great idea to sell the bulb as Canbus free when in fact they trip the error light. He suggested a higher performance bulb (but didn't point out a specific) so i am waiting to hear back to see if he has a better solution.

I have found these online, don't know if they're any good though.

 

http://www.jdmpowered.com/vw-touareg-xenon-white-number--license-plate-led-kit-super-bright-direct-fit-1344-p.asp

May I also ask for the details on the resistor route? I have the bulbs, but do not know enough about the wiring of resistors etc to make up the part myself.

Can you buy the wiring with resistors off the shelf? If not is there someone who wants to sell me a set!?

As an aside, I reached out to the seller of the bulbs to tell him that its not a great idea to sell the bulb as Canbus free when in fact they trip the error light. He suggested a higher performance bulb (but didn't point out a specific) so i am waiting to hear back to see if he has a better solution.

The resistors i purchased from Kufatec, they come with the adaptor which needs changing on the car wiring which is very simple just need a sharp strong pin to pop the wires out and slot then pins in to the new adapters that fits the resistors. I would imagine you could buy the resistors and wiring for a hell of a lot less that £30 what it cost but these look and seem good quality so why not.

For the "canbus free bulbs" I'm not sure you would get led that draw enough current to prevent the warning light coming on, I believe VAG systems require more current than other manufacturers hence why the canbus free from ebay and what not don't work

I have found these online, don't know if they're any good though.

http://www.jdmpowered.com/vw-touareg-xenon-white-number--license-plate-led-kit-super-bright-direct-fit-1344-p.asp

Follow the link to the genuine VW Passat ones I have

 

May I also ask for the details on the resistor route? I have the bulbs, but do not know enough about the wiring of resistors etc to make up the part myself.

 

First you need to measure how much current OEM bulb draws using a multimeter (measurement a - should be around 0.4A with standard 5W bulb). Do the same measurement with your LED replacement bulb (measurement b )

 

Then some basic formulas:

a - b = I (current that resistor must draw - in Amperes)

R = 12V / I (value of the resistor needed in Ohms; also measure the correct voltage with the engine running (could be more than 12V))

P = 12V x I (resistor power rating in Watts)

 

Power rating will be probably around 3-4W which means you could use 2 x 2W resistors wired in parallel (with double resistor value 2R). 

The resistor(s) then need to be wired in parallel with LED bulb (some soldering and heat-shrinking tube required if you want to do it properly).

 

Also to be sure you still get the warning message on maxi-dot in case LED fails you should try some higher resistor values (than the one calculated) to find out when the warning goes off and then use the previous one. This way you can make sure everything works as before.

 

Or you can just save yourself the trouble with DIY version and buy everything like Rob did 

 

Hope this helps a bit

Edited 4 November, 201312 yr by PekoSI