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What performance mods are there for the 1.4 16v 100bhp?


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2 hours ago, celsisone said:

best way of getting more power from AUB engine is to swop bottom end with BCB 1.6 unit.  will see 130bhp

 

Except you won't even get it to run without changing the engine management system, 15% extra engine capacity alone will not give a 30% increase in power, not even in your wildest dreams.

 

If the maths doesn't work then it's not true.

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1.6 BCB engine is 105bhp standard . The 1.4 AUA / BBY engine is 75bhp standard 

the only difference between them is is a long stroke to get the 200cc

 

differences between the AUA / AUB both 1.4 is inlet , TB , high lift cams , injectors, ECU and revs 1000rpm higher .  AUB is 100Bhp standard. 

 

So if you run standard BCB with AUB cams, inlet , TB, injectors and ECU which are all plug and play. 

 

Removed pre cat too by fitting polo 6n2 manifold. 

 

With no mapping I have done this to 2 cars . First in fabia car made 124bhp with 161nm (car weight is 1120KG)

 

the second car was an Audi A2, car made 128bhp with 165nm (car weight is 890KG)

 

 

Edited by celsisone
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2 hours ago, celsisone said:

1.6 BCB engine is 105bhp standard . The 1.4 AUA / BBY engine is 75bhp standard 

the only difference between them is is a long stroke to get the 200cc

 

differences between the AUA / AUB both 1.4 is inlet , TB , high lift cams , injectors, ECU and revs 1000rpm higher .  AUB is 100Bhp standard. 

 

So if you run standard BCB with AUB cams, inlet , TB, injectors and ECU which are all plug and play. 

 

Removed pre cat too by fitting polo 6n2 manifold. 

 

With no mapping I have done this to 2 cars . First in fabia car made 124bhp with 161nm (car weight is 1120KG)

 

the second car was an Audi A2, car made 128bhp with 165nm (car weight is 890KG)

 

 

 

I believe you, what I don't believe are the figures, you cannot get a 30% increase in BHP by simply increasing the engine capacity by 15%, the maths simply don't work like that.

 

I would expect to see a proportionate increase in peak torque from the capacity hike but very little at the top end, the fact that it runs at all is because the ECU is not sensing a significant difference in net gasflow and the MAP and Lambda probes alone can compensate, to me this suggests about 10% is a far more likely outcome and you should probably get before and after figures from your dyno guys because their figures are frankly nonsense.

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If you look at the figures for the two engines:

 

74 kilowatts (101 PS; 99 bhp) @ 6,000 rpm; 126 newton metres (93 lbf⋅ft) @ 4,400 rpm — AFH, AFK, AUB, BBZ

 

77 kilowatts (105 PS; 103 bhp) @ 5,700 rpm; 148 newton metres (109 lbf⋅ft) @ 4,500 rpm — AUS, AZD, ATN, BCB

 

It should be immediately obvious to you that what I said holds true, look at the peak torque figures; the difference is almost exactly 15%, the same as the capacity increase, also peak torque is at almost exactly the same RPM which means the cam profiles are very similar.

I think your dyno operator is blowing smoke up your backside. You can only remap a Bosch ECU, the Marelli and Siemens ECU's are not mappable which is why a piggyback unit was needed on that Fabia.

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Ok I post some facts here as I owned a new AUB from Jan 2001 until I sold it in Jan 2015.....& I did modify it a bit & had done loads of engine research on it...

 

Facts:-

 

1. they are good engines, never had any problems with mine & used the full rev range, ..BUT it requires super unleaded otherwise it don't like it & in the long term that causes most of the common problems with the engine....they do state on the fuel filler cap "requires 98RON"..& in the sales brochure, it was designed long term for this fuel...

 

2. ABT offer a piggy back tune box, iridium spark plugs, new cams, better ignition leads, & drop in panel filter. result was 140BHP.....OEM exhaust & air box used.

 

3. the wasted spark ignition is a weak point, I used NGK iridium spark plugs & magnacor race leads (as per ABT)...I also made my own high flow fully sealed cold air intake system.....way better than stock..

 

4. the car has two cats..the one nearest the engine is a 200cell metal......the other is a standard 400cell ceramic....I swapped that for a 200cell stainless race cat......unfortunately it requires a remap as the Lambda sensors did not see the required (ECU spec) % scrub of the exhaust gases between the first & second sensor ...even thought the gases coming out the other end indicated a complete burn....MOT results for 10yrs are so low its not true...

 

5. The cams used by ABT were not "wild", & I think it was Schrick who made 4 different types for this engine...& the lowest spec was 256deg....

 

6. VWracing & various others got 200bhp plus..infact 230BHP out of the bored out 1.6lt version.....230bhp but had problems with the tappets etc....

 

7. Mine was way faster & revved quicker & was way more responsive than a stock AUB...….but a stock vrs is still faster...BUT mine handled way better on Koni & fully poly bushed & vrs front arb...& of course its a lighter front end...

 

feed the engine best petrol, best oil, look after it & let it breathe better.....its a nice light weight rev happy engine..great down the twisty back roads....& if you are a good driver then skill & the engine will let you beat way more bigger/powerfull cars..I did......great fun annoying big cars with "just" a small Fabia....

 

However compared to my bigger Golf with a turbo charged & variable cam version 1.4lt......lets just say this new thing flies…& mine produces another 27bhp & 17nm more than stock & no remap....

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1 hour ago, fabdavrav said:

Ok I post some facts here as I owned a new AUB from Jan 2001 until I sold it in Jan 2015.....& I did modify it a bit & had done loads of engine research on it...

 

Facts:-

 

1. they are good engines, never had any problems with mine & used the full rev range, ..BUT it requires super unleaded otherwise it don't like it & in the long term that causes most of the common problems with the engine....they do state on the fuel filler cap "requires 98RON"..& in the sales brochure, it was designed long term for this fuel...

 

2. ABT offer a piggy back tune box, iridium spark plugs, new cams, better ignition leads, & drop in panel filter. result was 140BHP.....OEM exhaust & air box used.

 

3. the wasted spark ignition is a weak point, I used NGK iridium spark plugs & magnacor race leads (as per ABT)...I also made my own high flow fully sealed cold air intake system.....way better than stock..

 

4. the car has two cats..the one nearest the engine is a 200cell metal......the other is a standard 400cell ceramic....I swapped that for a 200cell stainless race cat......unfortunately it requires a remap as the Lambda sensors did not see the required (ECU spec) % scrub of the exhaust gases between the first & second sensor ...even thought the gases coming out the other end indicated a complete burn....MOT results for 10yrs are so low its not true...

 

5. The cams used by ABT were not "wild", & I think it was Schrick who made 4 different types for this engine...& the lowest spec was 256deg....

 

6. VWracing & various others got 200bhp plus..infact 230BHP out of the bored out 1.6lt version.....230bhp but had problems with the tappets etc....

 

7. Mine was way faster & revved quicker & was way more responsive than a stock AUB...….but a stock vrs is still faster...BUT mine handled way better on Koni & fully poly bushed & vrs front arb...& of course its a lighter front end...

 

feed the engine best petrol, best oil, look after it & let it breathe better.....its a nice light weight rev happy engine..great down the twisty back roads....& if you are a good driver then skill & the engine will let you beat way more bigger/powerfull cars..I did......great fun annoying big cars with "just" a small Fabia....

 

However compared to my bigger Golf with a turbo charged & variable cam version 1.4lt......lets just say this new thing flies…& mine produces another 27bhp & 17nm more than stock & no remap....

 

Fab, he's completely ignoring us, he's living the dream.

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1 hour ago, sepulchrave said:

 

Fab, he's completely ignoring us, he's living the dream.

 

haha....

 

personally if I wanted to build the car I almost did it would have involved removing the AUB & fitting the 1.6lt 16v from the Polo GTI or Lupo GTI...can't remember which one...& then tuning that to a reliable 160PS to 180PS...then fitting the VRS Fabia rear beam as stiffer....& Seat 4pot Brembos….keeping my dark met blue paint & mystic beige interior...but adding the VRS limited ed red seat belts...….build the car VAG could & should have made....

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2 hours ago, fabdavrav said:

 

haha....

 

personally if I wanted to build the car I almost did it would have involved removing the AUB & fitting the 1.6lt 16v from the Polo GTI or Lupo GTI...can't remember which one...& then tuning that to a reliable 160PS to 180PS...then fitting the VRS Fabia rear beam as stiffer....& Seat 4pot Brembos….keeping my dark met blue paint & mystic beige interior...but adding the VRS limited ed red seat belts...….build the car VAG could & should have made....

 

I took the cheap option and bought a 2.0 so it already has all the VRS running gear, I have a complete 16V ABF engine shrink wrapped on a pallet in the garage for fitment when I have time, my old 1.4 is still in daily use with my sister-in-law.

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9 hours ago, fabdavrav said:

 

haha....

 

personally if I wanted to build the car I almost did it would have involved removing the AUB & fitting the 1.6lt 16v from the Polo GTI or Lupo GTI...can't remember which one...& then tuning that to a reliable 160PS to 180PS...then fitting the VRS Fabia rear beam as stiffer....& Seat 4pot Brembos….keeping my dark met blue paint & mystic beige interior...but adding the VRS limited ed red seat belts...….build the car VAG could & should have made....

fitting the Gti engines require a full loom change. not worth the time. 

 

If you know about theses 1.4 and 1.6 engines and been about long enough to know that you can tune them more than gti anyway. 

 

 

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9 hours ago, celsisone said:

fitting the Gti engines require a full loom change. not worth the time. 

 

If you know about theses 1.4 and 1.6 engines and been about long enough to know that you can tune them more than gti anyway. 

 

 

 

Wiring looms are easy to do...I've done mases of changes to my MK7 Golf....& even done a full ignition loom replacement on a 1.8T (heat makes those wires brittle)..amongst other projects.....I like wiring....

 

Did you read my above post??...cause I state that the 1.4lt can be tuned to 140bhp easy..which is more than a stock 1.6GTI...but a tuned 1.6GTi engine can be tuned further or to the same level as a highly tuned 1.4lt but with more reliability....which is why I would have swapped for a 1.6lt to make a very reliable tuned engine..ie not under much stress....

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  • 3 years later...

So...i am thinking of modifing an AUA fabia, like a small list:

-aub head

- intake manif from a poli gti?! Or what other options are there?!

- rods and crank,q i presume, from an 1.6 , azd aus ?( Cause i liked the upper writen inputs) 

-aub ecu?? I have a marelli on the car, is their an option to take a standard oem skoda  ecu that can be worked on!? I understood bosch, but i am not aware if it's on other mk1 fabias or where can i find other options,like a piggybank one, it was mentioned before an abt, but i don't seem to find one...

 

What else?!

 

And...what should bought new, i think the rods..for a more sturdy built, or i can go the used way...i will see... depends 😅

 

Ps. I would like bolt ons, cause it's somewhat cheaper, and also in my country is better if you don't mod the car to much or at all and i don't want it to be more than a sleeper!😏

 

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Honestly? It's probably not worth all that effort, and a better idea to swap for something quicker. But it's your own money to spend. Any ECU changes will need dash clusters etc IIRC. Additionally Marelli (also found on AUBs) ECUs cannot be remapped or flashed AFAIK.

 

Mibbie no quite what you're looking for, but I hope that helps. :)

Edited by AnnoyingPentium
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I'm afraid it's a total waste of time and money, you'll end up with what was a perfectly good car in bits that doesn't work any more, then you'll lose interest and buy something faster.

 

So just cut out the stupid part, sell that car and buy a faster car.

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11 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

I'm afraid it's a total waste of time and money, you'll end up with what was a perfectly good car in bits that doesn't work any more, then you'll lose interest and buy something faster.

 

So just cut out the stupid part, sell that car and buy a faster car.

C'mon maaan...if it would've been worth i would've done it by now, but it's not...most likely it would be scraped...and i am really fond of the car, i have it for close to 10 years now.... she's a 2001 car ..and it's quite a decent car...i really wouldn't get much on her, cause i am also close ,,to 350k km (true a second engine, but still 350k) ....so i don't want to get rid of her...i want a project car...so it would do fine!🙃

Of course something else could be faster...but how many faster cars gets beat by a mk1 fabia?🙃

And the wet dream would be a 4x4 one...🤫...and i will someday do that...untill then...at least, let's release the krakens!☠️☠️☠️

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4 minutes ago, ScriciMM said:

Of course something else could be faster...but how many faster cars gets beat by a mk1 fabia?🙃

 

2.0... took 'em like a king. :cool:

 

If you're that attached to the car, then keep it and drive it as is. Use the savings for petrol, or for a "project" car. :)

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9 minutes ago, ScriciMM said:

The Fabia will be the project car!...seems most people have lost their spirit of adventure...

 

Well there's your answer then! As Sepulchrave says, just drop the AUB in the car and then do whatever you like with it. :)

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12 hours ago, ScriciMM said:

The Fabia will be the project car!...seems most people have lost their spirit of adventure...

 

There is spirit of adventure alright but you need to plan and plan well - No point in getting half way through and then a working car in bits ending up at the recyclers as sep has said.

 

There is no gain in going modifying a 1.4 petrol engine - Unless you are building a race/rally car that is class restricted. Putting in cams, throttle bodies, ported and polished head will give at most around 150bhp max and leave the car a totally unmanageable, lumpy highly strung, gas guzzling mess - This conversion will be mega bucks anyway.

 

or

Keep an eye out in the market for an Audi TT, Golf GTi or Cupra Leon or sommit VW, Audi based that is a runner that you can use the engine, gearbox and loom for a proper transplant. You could take a chance on a breaker but if you know for a fact the donor is a good runner you will be able to work from that instead of doing a conversion and then wonder why the car wont fire up or worse still find the engine to be knackered  ! 

 

I've seen many projects come and go over the years some successful a lot end in tears - fail to prepare and prepare to fail.  

 

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5 minutes ago, VanhireBoys said:

 

There is spirit of adventure alright but you need to plan and plan well - No point in getting half way through and then a working car in bits ending up at the recyclers as sep has said.

 

There is no gain in going modifying a 1.4 petrol engine - Unless you are building a race/rally car that is class restricted. Putting in cams, throttle bodies, ported and polished head will give at most around 150bhp max and leave the car a totally unmanageable, lumpy highly strung, gas guzzling mess - This conversion will be mega bucks anyway.

 

or

Keep an eye out in the market for an Audi TT, Golf GTi or Cupra Leon or sommit VW, Audi based that is a runner that you can use the engine, gearbox and loom for a proper transplant. You could take a chance on a breaker but if you know for a fact the donor is a good runner you will be able to work from that instead of doing a conversion and then wonder why the car wont fire up or worse still find the engine to be knackered  ! 

 

I've seen many projects come and go over the years some successful a lot end in tears - fail to prepare and prepare to fail.  

 

 

Here is wisdom.

 

I gave up on my 16V conversion when I changed the clutch and realised it will barely hold the 8V engine, it's tiny and there's no physical room in the low-profile bell housing for a larger one, these kinds of packaging restraints are what happens when you fit the engine and gearbox from a wider Golf platform into the narrower Polo platform, you can't make the crankshaft or the layshafts shorter so you have to fit a tiny clutch and flywheel between them.

 

I may be able to have a stronger competition clutch made for the tiny flywheel but that would probably cost at least a thousand pounds and spending that much money is simply unrealistic.

 

In the meantime my 2.0 is in daily use and the 16V engine is still on the pallet behind the shed. Nothing ventured, nothing lost.

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