Anyone know where to find this flap positioning motor - it is showing a permanent fault which comes back after clearing and driving for a while.

I can hear it trying to do the right thing...

 

 

 

Same problem here ... 2005 MKI. 

 

Rob

All the heater positions work, but if the controls are set to auto or econ you can hear it hunting around.  It sounds like it is in the footwell area around the plastic trunking.  I have one of those inspection cameras I might put up the footwell vent to see if I can see it.

Pretty sure I found it - have to wait to tomorrow to see if it comes in / out without dash out.  It seems to be accessible (touchable at least) from driver's footwell - just up from the footwell vent.  I can see some bolts so there is hope...  I can actually feel the thing on the outside of the casing moving as it is hunting.

Sounds promising Jimbof ... Funny both cars are Edition 100's.

 

Cheers,

 

Rob

I figure we're probably all due the same old-age failures - all the edition 100's were built in 2005.  

There are 3 positions on these it seems - demist, footwell and footwell+demist.  if I can't see how to get it out easily I think I'll set it to the foot+demist position and unplug the cable - the ticking and hunting is driving me round the twist.  At first I thought it was reading the CD in the nav unit doing it - similar kind of noise to that. 

I'd set it for demist only - you can get a toasty bum, can't you?  :sun:

 

Gaz

I think I'll have a play with it later - if the footwell + demist position is good enough to demist quickly under full speed fan then it would be a winner.  Need to spend a little time upside down in the footwell to see if it can come out from the driver side without taking the dash apart or not.  Some of the workshop guides I've seen - I think for US cars - seem to imply it is a dash out job which would be ludicrous (though totally believable!) as I can touch the bit being moved at the moment without disassembling anything.

 

Anyone got access to the relevant pages of a right hand drive workshop manual?

Hrmm looks like a proper "no more knuckles" job to try and do in-situ...

from what I can see 3x6mm bolts to undo, at least one has only about 15mm clearance above it so would need to attack it with a spanner instead of sockets.  Then there is a clip to detatch the motor from the actual flap, and the cable to undo.  

 

Anyhow know how the clip mechanism on the connector works - I can't very easily see (even with the snake-cam)?

This looks pretty do-able now without taking dash out - I think the procedure is going to be;

1) remove driver side under dash trim (4 x torx)

2) unbolt the motor (3 x 6mm bolts - got one of these tiny ratchets which looks just the job http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350704501807?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649.  I tried to do it without doing 1) as I was at work, but there is only one of the bolts with reasonable access.

3) unclip the motor from the flap and disconnect cable

4) swap in a new motor (well, got a second hand one off fleabay to play around with first).

 

Does anyone know if I'm missing anything?  Everytime I hear flaps mentioned it sounds like dash out - so I'm surprised this >looks< accessible...

Yay success

 

It is possible to swap out V85 without taking the dashboard out, but you will need patience and preferably teeny little lady hands like I have! 

 

The procedure is as follows:

• Put your seat as far back as possible (you will want the space in the footwell)
• Unclip the fuse cover panel on the end of the dash
• There are 4x T25 screws holding the lower dash trim (2 on the side, 2 in the front edges of the 2 storage compartments) - remove.  
• There are two clips holding the panel to the dash along it's top edge - one either side of the steering wheel - here a plastic pry tool is helpful.  You might be able to do it just by pulling.  The clips will likely stay in the dash, but you won't be able to fit them that way - they need clipping back onto the plastic pegs on the lower dash trim before refitting.
• WATCH OUT! On my car at least, the diagnostics connector cables are quite short (much shorter than any of the other connectors) - so don't yonk the trim out too quickly.
• Unclip the footwell light connector, the headlights connector, the illumination connector and the diagnostics connector.  You can now remove the lower dash trim from the car.
• You should now have a reasonable view of the offending motor.
• Undo the 3x6mm bolts on it.  I got the mentioned BAHCO tiny ratchet which makes this much easier.  Note the furthest of the screws you only want to back out a little with the tool otherwise you won't be able to get the tool out - you undo if fully with your fingers.  Probably for the best so you don't lose the bolt.
• Now is the trickiest part - you need to manipulate the motor a little so that you can remove the black linkage from the yellow spindle.  The spindle has some pegs on it which mean it can only be removed in certain positions.  I found if I tipped the furthest back corner towards me it got the lower of the pegs to pop out, and then using a small black plastic spudger to unclip it fully (a screwdriver could be used at a push, but you risk damage).
• Once you have the linkage unclipped you can manoever the motor out (not much room!) and unclip the connector.
• Refit is the reverse of above.  Watch the steering wheel cowel - I managed to put a couple of tiny marks on mine catching it on the back of the lower dash trim.  Annoying.
• If you are using a breakers supplied motor (like I was - £7.99 instead of £90) - probably worth running it up on the cable before putting it all back together.

After this I used VCDS to clear the fault code and did a basic settings on the AC controller just to reset all the flap positions - I'm not sure it was necessary but can't hurt.

 

I'll put up the few pics I took - couldn't get many of the more intricate manipulations as would have had to take them with the camera in my mouth!

 

Probably took me an an hour and a bit all told.

Edited 17 November, 201312 yr by jimbof

Here are some photos and a video.  Note most of the grinding sound is the autofocus on my camera, should of set it to manual...

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B-_YzKUQ1hkzNjRPamtIM2dRSHc&usp=sharing

Result  :clap: 

 

Gaz

For anyone wanting to give this a go; this is the part number of the motor unit:

8D2820511C

This is the seller I bought it from, excellent price and quick delivery:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271135604429?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

As an entertaining aside - the workshop manual I bought yesterday from Erwin implies the dash crossmember has to come out - which means this job is probably £500 at a dealers...

Maybe you should check to see that your crossmember isn't still in the spare parts bin at the Skoda factory 

 

FIAT dealer once charged me for points and a condenser that my car didn't have.  Same dealer that I went back into after my car changed into neutral unexpectedly. 'We don't think that would have anything to do with what we've done Mr Woods (radiator replacement).  How many miles have you covered since it was last with us?'.  Me: 'About thirty feet.' Him: 'Oh, best we get it back in the workshop then…'.  Dimwits had changed the rad but not replenished the lost transmission fluid. Digressed off topic there - soz 

 

I think you should go out and treat yourself and yours to a nice meal, courtesy of the dealer you didn't have to pay 

 

Gaz

lol that is a good one... and sounds like a plan... "Superb is buying!"  :p