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Stiffening but not lowering

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Van? I only go to cash and carry once a week, but if i lowered the car, i would hit the speedbumps with the expensive part of the car. That is a side issue. The main issue is the bodyroll and diving under braking as well as bottoming out when giving it beans on the twisties. I dont drive everywhere fully freighted if thats what anyone is thinking :eek:

Stiffer dampers will mean the absorption of bumps is alot slower

Not so.

The valving inside can make a big difference and it then comes down to bump frequency ie they are velocity sensitive. At low speed (damper not car) with the piston moving in and out slowly as with pushing it in and out slowly by hand they can feel quite soft and esy to move. Try and double the speed that you are pushing and pulling it - you may find you can't move it :D What has happened is that the internal valving permits only a certain amount of oil through at a given moment and speed. It will take more load at the higher speed to move the same distance.

Van?[/b'] I only go to cash and carry once a week, but if i lowered the car, i would hit the speedbumps with the expensive part of the car. That is a side issue. The main issue is the bodyroll and diving under braking as well as bottoming out when giving it beans on the twisties. I dont drive everywhere fully freighted if thats what anyone is thinking :eek:

Yep one of these http://www.deeptuning.it/Public/data/FiestaCosworth/200452114297_transit.jpg should do you nicely :D

Not so.

The valving inside can make a big difference and it then comes down to bump frequency ie they are velocity sensitive. At low speed (damper not car) with the piston moving in and out slowly as with pushing it in and out slowly by hand they can feel quite soft and esy to move. Try and double the speed that you are pushing and pulling it - you may find you can't move it :D What has happened is that the internal valving permits only a certain amount of oil through at a given moment and speed. It will take more load at the higher speed to move the same distance.

Kinda was trying to get to that but you can explain it better, plus some dampers are adjustable just like motorbike suspensions which you can control the rebound, damping and preload.

Your best bet would be to source a set of quality uprated gas shock absorbers eg. Bilstein, Konis etc. They would have slightly firmer damping and would eradicate the standard fault with nearly all VAG group cars - inadequate damping. Lowering springs will nearly always induce some harshness in general road use, but you'll find fitting quality uprated gas dampers will take out much of the pitching VAG cars suffer from, and will also stop a lot of the nose dive you get when braking making your brakes feel sharper too (until you get used to it!). These uprated dampers can be bought for use with either lowering springs only having differently placed spring retainers or shortened piston rods OR as standard size dampers. Konis are my favourite as you can adjust them on the car to suit your mood! First thing I always change when I buy a VAG car is the dampers as it makes soooo much difference and makes the sports model feel a bit sporty.

Fitting those caravan spring blockers would end up giving you bad stability problems under fast cornering and would invalidate your insurance should you wipe out. And they wouldn't get to the root of your problem which lies with the shock absorbers.

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Thanks for that Beezer :thumbup:

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