Hi,

 

I've recently invested in a Meguiars clay bar kit, Microfibre Shine Detailing And Car Cleaning Cloth & a pack of 2.0 NXT Tech car wax/pad set.

 

I like to keep my car clean but fancy stepping up a bit by using the above too, above is my first step in doing this. My question is can it be too cold to clay & apply wax & buff or should I at least put the front of the car in the garage first?

 

I am considering the 2 bucket method & getting a good mitt also & purchasing these/Seeing if Santa can provide.

 

Any thoughts or advise would be much apprecited. I did look at the dual rotor polisher but feel it's possibly a bit too much in 1 month to shell out for dispite me feeling it will make my arms ache a lot less.

 

Thanks in advance

 

Mark

I don't think temp will affect claying too badly as long as you're hands are up to it, you will need to keep the clay warmed otherwise it might become a bit too hard.

 

Hand polishing with something easy like AG Super Resin Polish has always been fine for me in most temperatures.

 

Applying wax, you will need to make sure the wax itself is a reasonable temp to keep it easy to work/apply, then once it's on, cold damp air might mean it takes longer to haze.

 

Should all be possible you will just need to adjust your technique according to the conditions.

 

2 Bucket method requires no consideration, just do it!  Wash mitt of quality is a good investment.

 

Unless you have a nice indoor space (garage) to use your machine polisher in I would hold fire for better weather

I appreciate the 2 buckets method thumbs up. What is the detailers preferred mitt of choice these days? Buckets I can pick up anywhere & label myself.

Edited 5 December, 201312 yr by HWMBO - Mark

Think a lot of people like the Dooka wash mitts http://www.dooka.co.uk/

 

Also good MF drying towels are a great purchase

The only time it is too cold to clay is when the water/lube freezes to the paint before you can actually clay.

 

Polishing can probably go even colder as long as its a "dry cold" if that makes sense - so paint is dry, but no actual moisture/ice on it.

Mits are down to personal choice. Some prefer lambs wool, others a mf mit. Personally I use a meguiars mf mit. It has the microfibre on both the front and back of the glove and I like to spin it round so I can effectively either do twice the area or cover the same area using both sides if its dirty to reduce the chances of swirls. I'd suggest you get a couple of grit guards to put in the bucket bottoms to stop grit transferring back on to your mit. Normally I try and pick a warm day this time of year to do the winter clean and detail as its easier and more pleasant. Good luck

Good advice here....Freezing conditions prevent usually

Waxing ....no less than 2C for me

Hi, only issue with clay is if it is really cold it becomes a pain to mould and fold. I personally have a bucket of clean hot water with a small amount of car shampoo in to keep dipping the clay into as it keeps it nice and soft to work with and also give your fingers a break from the cold!

Waxing on the other hand if it is cold to the point where any amount of dew is forming its no good. Just creates a huge mess to try and clean up. Polishing is not so bad but still creating more work for your self. Best advice would be to pick the early morning to get started washing then claying, by that time you have enough mid day and afternoon to do polishing and waxing with out an evening dew threatening it!

This time of year doing so outside means very few days allow the weather for it!

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I wouldn't clay this time of year.

 

Wash, SRP (or carlack) wait till it a bit warmer.

 

With all the grit being thrown down at the moment, you will need to clay it again come march, so might as well leave it till then, just protect it for now.

Claying takes very little time and providing that you have washed the car properly and rinsed it well, its no less safe than any other time of the year

Claying takes very little time and providing that you have washed the car properly and rinsed it well, its no less safe than any other time of the year

 

This is my take too - A proper wash with stages of Tardis and Iron-out/similar really takes out all the effort that I used to associate with claying (when I first learned about it)

+1

 

I always let the Tar and Iron Decon sprays do the hard work and look at claying as a finish up to that section of prep. 

 

How often is everyone claying their cars?

+1

 

I always let the Tar and Iron Decon sprays do the hard work and look at claying as a finish up to that section of prep. 

 

How often is everyone claying their cars?

 

Not clayed mine for a long time.  In fact thanks to my effort being aimed at cars I don't own all summer/autumn, my own car is starting to look a bit minging!  :(

 

I would only ever clay a car though, if I knew it was heading for a fresh machine polish.  If I thought there could still be wax from the last time it was done, I wouldn't bother, else you'd just be claying off the wax.

 

I am hoping to get a single day free over Xmas to put some TLC on to my paintwork....

+1

 

I always let the Tar and Iron Decon sprays do the hard work and look at claying as a finish up to that section of prep. 

 

How often is everyone claying their cars?

Twice a year...spring and autumn.

Me too Mike

Not clayed mine for a long time. In fact thanks to my effort being aimed at cars I don't own all summer/autumn, my own car is starting to look a bit minging! :(

I would only ever clay a car though, if I knew it was heading for a fresh machine polish. If I thought there could still be wax from the last time it was done, I wouldn't bother, else you'd just be claying off the wax.

I am hoping to get a single day free over Xmas to put some TLC on to my paintwork....

You cant clay off wax. Clay "shaves" proud contamination. It would simply glide over tye layer of wax. As long as your car is washed properly you could clay it every time you wash. It doesnt remove anything unless its proud of the flat paint. I.e tar

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That's not right at all

Clay, done properly, will remove any wax as part of a decontamination/Detox process

Wax doesnt stand proud of the paint, it is a microscopic layer of protection that 9 times out of 10 actually fills in the small swirls and scratches. If you have high spots of wax that clay removes then who ever has applied it has been ham fisted and not dont it properly. Ive been detailing as a hobby for years even before I owned a car and ive been doing it professionaly for 5 years. Never has any protection came off during claying, tar and iron removers can slightly affect the protection but clay is far from designed and certainly incapable of removing wax. Scratch the wax off with a dirty clay, yes. But not by the bar

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Sorry but I will have to disagree with you

Perhaps you were using a lubricant/detailer spray, rather than a water/shampoo mix (Bilt Hamber clays for one) which gives the illusion of not removing the wax

"Clay" really dosnt like the cold, doing it in the cold just increases the chance of marring. 

 

And depending on which final product you use, you have to use a cutting compound to remove them, so they won't/can't be removed by claying.

 

 

 

 

Still each to their own. I am sure we all have our own way about doing cars.

 

 

I was always under the impression that claying, tar removing and iron removing will take off any protection you have on the paint and should never leave the car after these 3 processes and should always put some sort of protection over the paint once these processes have been completed.

Use Bilt Hamber soft clay in the winter months, that way you will reduce the chance of marring.

I always polish after claying anyway, so if I have marred the paint , it polishes out very easily

Bilt Hamber Clay uses water as its lubricant.. I use a cap of detergent and warm water and find it works far more effectively and safer than water alone

I was always under the impression that claying, tar removing and iron removing will take off any protection you have on the paint and should never leave the car after these 3 processes and should always put some sort of protection over the paint once these processes have been completed.

 

Your paint won't dissolve or crumble if you clay and then don't wax.

 

For instance you could clay on the saturday, do a 2 BM on the sunday and then LSP.

 

This can be done due to the low dew point, which can have an effect on your chosen LSP.

 

The colder the weather, the more problems and chances of mistakes being made as you rush trying to beat the weather/light.

 

But find what works for you and most of all, enjoy what your doing 

Your paint won't dissolve or crumble if you clay and then don't wax.

 

For instance you could clay on the saturday, do a 2 BM on the sunday and then LSP.

 

This can be done due to the low dew point, which can have an effect on your chosen LSP.

 

The colder the weather, the more problems and chances of mistakes being made as you rush trying to beat the weather/light.

 

But find what works for you and most of all, enjoy what your doing 

With reference to your line 2 above...its important to understand that the car should be washed before claying, as well as after.

Regards

Mike.

Also....Why would you clay and then leave it.....to finish another day?