...do your's last?

 

Just re-done mine for the 3rd time... granted I always regarded the 2nd one as temporary.

 

Had strange starting behaviour. Like the starter was momentarily losing power and trying to disengage, faltering... Still did it after swapping out the battery.

 

Hence, today spent an hour or so bent over the engine bay removing many plastic parts along with the battery and airbox etc to get access and make a better repair.

 

Starts like new now.

 

Original OEM lasted 5+ years.

1st repair lasted 2 years.

2nd repai lasted 1 year... Though hadn't actually failed by the time I replaced it.

3rd attempt at least looks like it should last.

 

J.

About the same for failure as you when I had mine

 

Been at least 2 years since I repaired mine DIY

Depends what you did? I soldered mine, and covered the crap out of it with tape. I don't recall if I heatshrinked it but that would have been the SENSIBLE thing to do lol so hope I did

 

Tempting fate now even thinking about it ! Hope it outlasts my use of the car, its a pain that is.

Could always get an autoelectrician to do a long term job but TBH that kind of lifetime of the repair isn't bad.

About the same for failure as you when I had mine

 

Been at least 2 years since I repaired mine DIY

Depends what you did? I soldered mine, and covered the crap out of it with tape. I don't recall if I heatshrinked it but that would have been the SENSIBLE thing to do lol so hope I did

 

Tempting fate now even thinking about it ! Hope it outlasts my use of the car, its a pain that is.

Could always get an autoelectrician to do a long term job but TBH that kind of lifetime of the repair isn't bad.

 

Used a 5 amp screw connector on the remnant of the wire with insulation tape holding it tightly to the small loom running f/b. Having figured out the original connector in the mean time, that got soldered to my "repair" wire earlier in the year.

Why not get a decent multi crimp tool some heatshrink crimps and larger heat shrink, to cover the heatshrink crimp with a longer piece of heatshrink . Solder sometimes don't like changes of temperature and crystalises.

Mine was fixed by a garage about 3 years ago, and is still going strong.  I'm sure they said they actually lengthened the bit of wire to ease the tension on it that causes it to break in the first place.

Why not get a decent multi crimp tool some heatshrink crimps and larger heat shrink, to cover the heatshrink crimp with a longer piece of heatshrink . Solder sometimes don't like changes of temperature and crystalises.

 

It'll break again anyway. So I opted for the simplest solution. As I see it, obtaining a replacement repair wire/connector in the mean time would be least time/effort repair.

 

So far it's gone mid-cable, where the OEM wrap off the loom stops. And just at the white rubber bung in the connector after the first repair.

 

It either goes due to major flex during engine start/stop or through general vibration. If the former, hopefully extra length this time means it'll stay intact.

Touch wood, mine is now nine year old ,with no problems. I never get any engine flex on start up - it starts first time, but I always ( from agwe old habit with diesels always let it heat up properly ), and never see any flex on stop. No general vibration as the three cyclinder is as smooth as silk .