Did they say what causes the "normal" clutch judder when pulling away? I'm intrigued as I wouldn't be happy if a brand new clutch was juddering. I have fitted a Helix SMF and clutch to mine and whilst it's noisey at idle and heavier than standard, it's still perfectly smooth when taking off. My other car (Rover 214) has a lightened flywheel and a really long first gear ratio, which means you have to give it loads of revs if you want a decent racing start without bogging down, but even with that setup, it's still a smooth take off with no juddering.

Cheers guys, I appreciate everyone's comments and advice.

As mentioned above, I will contact CG tomorrow to see what they will offer to put things right. They seemed to offer pretty good service, but obviously I am concerned about these two issues now. I've paid a lot of money out here for things not to be entirely right, so I need to give CG the benefit of the doubt. Only issue being, I don't have any holidays left now until January, so if they ask me to go up on a weekday I'm snookered!! Thanks again guys

Edited 8 December, 201312 yr by Mounty

So it was a saturday morning fob off then,

 

Its probably a wheel sensor issue, disconnecting battery won't do jack

A DMF is basically a harmonic damper which smooths tickover and low RPM vibration from the crankshaft caused by the strong torque pulses of a diesel engine.

 

The only reason a clutch will 'judder' is because it is slipping and gripping inconsistently, this may be because the pressure plate has not been uniformly and carefully torqued down during assembly.

 

If you have a new DMF and a HD friction plate and pressure plate then I would expect the clutch to be slightly 'grabby' while you get used to it, I would not expect any vibration at tickover or any juddering at all.

 

I strongly suspect the apprentice may have incorrectly fitted your new clutch given that you have an ABS fault as well.

I think all the clutches with uprated material will judder on takeoff it is basically a race setup to be fair. 

I would think it may get a bit better once it beds in but really you have a hard friction material slipping against a hard steel plate so it is never going to be smooth when it's slipping, so a compromise for a unit that can take the torque and abuse but not so user friendly really.

EVERY single rally clutch I have had has juddered in 1st but they have always done the job I wanted them to.

the traction light is obviously something that has been disturbed while the box was out , is it just the traction light or the abs one too (traction one comes on when you press the switch) ? if it is just the traction one then it won't be a sensor problem but could be something like the airflow meter wiring unplugged etc so needs a fault scan to comfirm really .

Again, I'm using a Sachs clutch and SMF with NO judder. Driven a helix with NO judder. Paddle clutch yeah, but a uprated one no.

I agree with matt1chelski, paddle clutch packs judder when you try to feather them which is why you dump 'em hard and use wheelspin to control the launch instead.

Again, I'm using a Sachs clutch and SMF with NO judder. Driven a helix with NO judder. Paddle clutch yeah, but a uprated one no.

Which one Matt?

My sre fly and clutch juddered for the first couple hundred miles until I got used to increasing revs.

Something sounds dodgy with this CG yet another complaint? Not necessarily the kit even just sloppy workmanship ignoring a fault.

I think all the clutches with uprated material will judder on takeoff it is basically a race setup to be fair.

I would think it may get a bit better once it beds in but really you have a hard friction material slipping against a hard steel plate so it is never going to be smooth when it's slipping, so a compromise for a unit that can take the torque and abuse but not so user friendly really.

EVERY single rally clutch I have had has juddered in 1st but they have always done the job I wanted them to.

the traction light is obviously something that has been disturbed while the box was out , is it just the traction light or the abs one too (traction one comes on when you press the switch) ? if it is just the traction one then it won't be a sensor problem but could be something like the airflow meter wiring unplugged etc so needs a fault scan to comfirm really .

That's a great explanation for someone who is new to this type of clutch. I think I'm just annoyed slightly because when I enquired about it, CG initially recommended a 6 paddle to cope with the amount of torque on my map. However, I stated that I rely on my car for commuting and do a lot of stop start driving. CG recommended the dual friction clutch with a standard DMF, as it would have the same drive feel as a normal clutch, hence why I went for it. No-one mentioned this issue from pulling away in 1st until it had been fitted on Saturday when picking it up. I would've removed the map an stuck with a standard clutch setup.

After driving into work today it's pretty annoying this 1st gear issue, so I'm just praying it dies down, otherwise I won't be a happy chappy!!

Thanks for your comment and advice though mate.

Really sorry mate.

Tbh with a dmf you should have a smooth clutch as the dmf is not only a sound/vibration dampner but also it protects the transmission from torque spikes. It should also smooth that start up out.

On the clutch ide get in touch with cg but I fear they will fob you off like they did me. Read the thread in my sig mate. And that was started by them before I even posted like you on here.

I had a smf and duel friction as they didnt offer me a dmf which I would of preferred for sound reasons. Like you tho I asked them. Describing my driving and car use and what I wanted from it and like you they reccomended this n that. Also when calling with concerns I was told it was normal and to address it by changing style.

All that lead to the thread in my sig. Basically me getting totally fed up with it and takimg it off to find the change in style has not done it any good and other things.

If your happy with the way it feels appart from the start off they will just say leave it and give more revs. I thinkIit will settle when the plate beds in and the dmf eases off. This will smooth out. Took mine ages. Not the 500 so mile they say. More like 1500 as I did the 500 ish in the first 2 days and all round town on purpose to try sort it fast.

With the faults and that their reccomentations are shoddy and not good imo. Very laxy.

If its a sensor then 2 lights will be on not one. One the traction and the abs. The rear ones can brake easy so might just be that as I had one go randomly due to it snapping.

Good luck tho mate and I hope they sort it or the clutch settles.

Hope they read thus and ime sure as ive posted they will go out the way to sort you to prove me an arse hole like they tried to do in the thread in my sig lol.

Allthe best.

Ps you need to bear in mind the duel friction clutch is a hybrid of a paddle and std plate. Tge juddering should go away when fully worked in and specially with dmf really shouldnt be there imo. Takes ages to as the paddle side is hard materials but my one was not great on the std plate side as I feel its a tad soft poss?

Hmmm, some interesting stuff in here (I was looking into a paddle one from them for my 330d, but not sure how it'll hold up to the torque).

 

Nothing to add really, other than I hope you get it sorted!

UPDATE re: 1st Gear Judder & Traction Control Light issues

 

After speaking to CG today, they have asked me to ring back on Wednesday as I can only visit them on a Saturday due to work commitments. They seem happy to open the workshop for me this coming Saturday, to hopefully sort this traction control light issue. CG seem to think it's possibly a loose cable/connector or something very simple!

 

The 1st gear judder will apparently die down once the material has bedded in or it'll stay the same - it won't get any worse! CG said it's to do with the hard material, so once the car starts being driven harder, after the bedding in period, it might help reduce this weird judder issue!

 

The best way to explain this 1st gear judder issue, is like you're trying to pull away with traction control on, where the car wheels just bounce. It only occurs when immediately pulling away. I did however question the fact that, they never said this was going to happen during the pre-sales process, hence why Andy at CG advised me not to go for a 6 paddle clutch. He said the dual friction will have a normal drive feel, which is also made for every day road use and rush hour traffic. Apparently, I was advised this, but lets put it this way, I wouldn't have spent £800 knowing that! I would've removed my remap and purchased a standard clutch. Also, I now have to think about when I sell the car. People will wonder what the hell the problem is, unless I clearly state it has a sports clutch, which will obviously reduce the sellers market!!

 

Anyway, I'll stop moaning and hope CG fix this traction control light issue on Saturday and pray this 1st gear judder dies down!

 

Thanks again all for the advice & recommendations

What power are you running?

What power are you running?

Only 170bhp ish with around 300lbs torque.

Is that £800 fitted?

My helix only cost me £1050 fitted.

Did the advise you to go for this setup? a standard clutch/dmf would have been fine running 170/300lb

Yeah I'd have gone with a stock setup going by what you've said about your use etc.

Jays, matt, cg dont reccomend std setup. They told me it will fail quickly.

Touch wood mine is still driving perfect and is getting on to be similar milage. I have a pm from them somwhere with what they said.

Unfortunatly I listened to them and went with their recommendations as I thought (wrongly) that they knew what they were on about. Basically damn good sale man but not in the interest of the customer.

I had other trouble with mine tho not just judder due tothe kit I had which was slightly different. How was Iit 800 notes tho?

Hope its sorted tho mate. Thought they opened on sat ne way? But if not int it nice of them. Yet when I suggested I drive the 450+ mile trip for them to see my car first hand and refit their kit to see what it was like they didnt want to know? Lol

So it sounds like its not the first time people have had problems then. I've always used darkside and to be honest had no problems,they know their stuff and will give good advice but won't push anything you don't need. After sales is just as important as the initial sale so hopefully and problems are rectified

Many people on here are running stage one (170bhp, 270-300 lbs) on standard clutch, with an uprated clutch only required really for stage 2 and beyond, so to me seems CG are more interested in sales than good advice and reputation.

I ran 218bhp 320ftlbs through a standard clutch/fly with no issues

Jays, matt, cg dont reccomend std setup. They told me it will fail quickly.

Touch wood mine is still driving perfect and is getting on to be similar milage. I have a pm from them somwhere with what they said.

Unfortunatly I listened to them and went with their recommendations as I thought (wrongly) that they knew what they were on about. Basically damn good sale man but not in the interest of the customer.

I had other trouble with mine tho not just judder due tothe kit I had which was slightly different. How was Iit 800 notes tho?

Hope its sorted tho mate. Thought they opened on sat ne way? But if not int it nice of them. Yet when I suggested I drive the 450+ mile trip for them to see my car first hand and refit their kit to see what it was like they didnt want to know? Lol

Of course they dont. Theres no money to be made that way. Its how all business's operate. Nothing uncommon there

No money to be made off me but it wouldnt of lead to the thread they started and me every so often pointing members away from them?

So they would of made money by giving me after salesservice that they juat were not Iinterested in doing only fobbing me off in the hope I take the offer then sell it on.

I'll be honest, I'm just cheesed off not being advised that the judder would occur when pulling away in 1st gear and secondly, the traction control light appearing 10 mins every from the ignition being switched on. That wasn't an issue before hand. As mentioned before, CG said to call them tomorrow to arrange a visit on Saturday to rectify this light issue. They do need to be given the benefit of the doubt. I'll then go from there. Wish me luck guys.

So far I will say that I've not experienced any other issues with the clutch! I've done about 150 miles and it's very quiet. My old flywheel was goosed, so the transmission noise was awful. Also, the gear changes are smooth, except when from cold. Seems to be a bit stiff randomly through changing gears. Once warm it's fine.