Think I've found the fault - http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=209472

I have a VAG diagnostic machine and it keeps reporting 'Load Signal Errors'. Wondering if some wiring is broken somewhere!

 

There, they snapped a wire removing the gearbox, sounds like they buggered the linkage as well and probably put the wrong grade of oil in the gearbox, after all how the hell are they gonna sell that huge drum of 75/90 they paid hundreds of pounds for if they don't change gearbox oil when they get the chance.

 

They sound like a right bunch of cowboys to be honest Mounty, I hope things work out ok for you.

And then tell you to unplug the battery as it will reset.

Hmmmm

I have also done this too!

But i have no idea

Was oil from a 33kv tranny at a power station. Every year it gets tested

Im the numpty who takes the samples

 

Nice, they'll be testing for dielectric strength and flashpoint most likely, it's a worry since transformer oil had to go 'green' and they took all the sulphur out (it was nasty carcinogenic stuff in the old days), a bit like lead free solder, it's not half as good as it used to be.

Not much fun really.... Dirty dirty job!

Especially when you have to pump it out and renew it!

Urgh

And then tell you to unplug the battery as it will reset.

Hmmmm

Tell me about it, think someone is trying to pull the wool over my eyes!!

Before I assume what's happened, let's see if they offer to get me in Saturday to rectify this issue.

Do you think when the light comes on my traction control is switched off?

Yes thats why the light comes on, its to tell you that there is a fault on the system and its inoperative!

You'll also find you may not have a battery symbol on the dash when you first turn ignition on (tell tale sign)

And your alternator will not charge your battery at low rpm, will only start to charge the battery from 2500rpm onwards

Yes thats why the light comes on, its to tell you that there is a fault on the system and its inoperative!

You'll also find you may not have a battery symbol on the dash when you first turn ignition on (tell tale sign)

And your alternator will not charge your battery at low rpm, will only start to charge the battery from 2500rpm onwards

You're right mate, can't see a battery symbol on the dash when you turn it on.

So does that also mean my battery will be loosing charge?!

Well there are 2 wires on the connector that can snap

One of them is your battery light on the dash

The other causes the car not to charge the battery at low rpm, the alternator only kicks in if you drive above around 2500rpm

As you have the traction light on id guess both of these cables have snapped

The alternator doesnt kik in till around 2k anyway then once your go to that rpm the roller bearing locks and then the alternator charges all the time.

I had to change my one due to bearing collapsing and seizing so alternator was turning all the time.

Jase is this cable the one on the front of the gearbox?

Mine had rotted. The one I on about is something to do with the pre heat too as I kept getting a fault but after the cg kit was fitted by my trusted indy they noticed it and soldered it back up and now its fine.

I also had trouble with charging and the pas didnt work for a few seconds on start up every so often?

So when idling you're not charging the battery? I never knew that!

So when idling you're not charging the battery? I never knew that!

If your load sensor wire is broken

Happened to a lad at my work. Started car to defrost then 10mins later it conked out. Was running on the battery only. Soon as you rev it the alternator then kicks in

The cable is below the battery tray ontop of the gearbox. Follow that link in the thread to seatcupranet and you'll see a pic of it

Tell me about it, think someone is trying to pull the wool over my eyes!!

Before I assume what's happened, let's see if they offer to get me in Saturday to rectify this issue.

Do you think when the light comes on my traction control is switched off?

 

CG called yesterday to confirm my appointment for Saturday. They are happy to get me back in to look at this issue.

 

Fingers crossed they manage to resolve the issue!

And now... I've developed a clicking sort of noise when I turn the steering ever so slightly on both sides! Wondering if it's anything to do with the driveshafts or a spring!

Could that happen from having your clutch and flywheel replaced?

Any thoughts guys...?

Yes, the driveshafts were removed to get the gearbox out.

Just praying it's something simple, as I've had nothing but issues since this new clutch kit was fitted!

Mounty, before posting on her anymore about this mate, wait till youve been in to see them. Make sure when they put it on a ramp you look at it too.

Once done and its sorted and youve found what all the troubles are then post up on here.

Dont want to be giving them even more bad press. Dont think they need it atm.

Specially if its other stuff thats going wrong thats nothing to do with the clutch change

Hope its all sorted for you tho mate asap!

Billy

That's a fair comment billy, however bad mechanics are bad mechanics the world over, simple stuff like this is inexcusable, it's sloppy and amateurish.

 

Taking the gearbox out of a car when you have all the facilities and tooling is a simple job, it needs one experienced mechanic and a helper who can be an apprentice.

 

The biggest issue with most places is their slavish approach to the clock, Autodata gives indicated timings for work like this but takes no account of any problems encountered, if the work takes an extra half an hour that doesn't mean they've lost their profit on a job because you're losing only the cost of that half hour, which is only likely to be a tenner or so, this is the horrible mistake many garages make, they look at that loss as a loss of billable time when in reality mistakes made by rushing those jobs cost far more to rectify and they fail to factor in the resultant loss of customer goodwill.

know what you mean mate and I have no confidence in them anyway. I didnt get anywhere with them doingIit in private and my reward from them was a thread trying to dis me propper. I dont want the same to happen here.

All the best today ;-)

UPDATE - ISSUES FIXED BY CG

Well, after my early start this morning, it was well worth it!

CG had my car in the workshop for around the hour mark and established the traction control light issue! It was the issue I found on the Seat website http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=209472 They soldered the wires back together and bingo, the battery light appeared on the dash and the traction control light didn't appear 10 minutes after the ignition was switched on.

The mechanic at CG did say they wires looked corroded, so they were obviously weak and admitted they must've snapped them when removing the gearbox. Fair play to them for admitting that.

The other clicking noise when turning the steering when stationary had also gone! CG said they didn't do anything to rectify this and it may have been the suspension settling after it had been on the ramp.

Finally, Mike and I took the car for a test drive and whilst out he explained why the juddering happens when pulling away in first gear. It's basically due to the hard materials used in this dual friction clutch. It is getting better I assume it's because I'm getting used to it. Can't wait to do my 500 miles as I'm ready to have some fun now!!

Great service CG and a big thanks for rectifying these issues.

Edited 14 December, 201312 yr by Mounty

sounds good news then, i would expect a bit of bedding in period with anything such as clutches and brakes.

sounds good news then, i would expect a bit of bedding in period with anything such as clutches and brakes.

 

Not really, not when you use all new parts, that's why garages don't like fitting new pads with old discs.

Thats something else too.

Why does these kits need time to bed in and when I refitted my new std clutch and dmf it was there straight away?

Glad its all sorted mate.

You need to bed these things in to avoid the risk of glazing friction material or warping metal parts by putting too much heat through them. If you hammer a new clutch it will probably slip or destroy itself.

You need to bed these things in to avoid the risk of glazing friction material or warping metal parts by putting too much heat through them. If you hammer a new clutch it will probably slip or destroy itself.

That's exactly what CG told me. Also, I've heard that from a number of mechanics.