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CG Motorsports - Dual Friction Clutch & DMF Review


Mounty

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Guest BigJase88

I had to explain to the guy who does my MOT's what a dual mass flywheel was and that my gearbox was not 'knackered' as he put it as it was running a single mass unit

He looked somewhat bewildered

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I know you need to run them in but what I am saying is there was a definite difference in the CG kit I had and the std setup, the std setup feels the same now as it did out the box if that makes sence?

 

bite and feel is the same where the CG kit was very juddery, mine was a SMF so did what the op did only through 1 2 and 3. and reverse.

 

the DMF takes most of the judder out of them.

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Pretty clear you have no time for garages and those who work in them.

 

That's probably a fair comment, although like many people on here I know a garage that I trust and use regularly for anything that needs the car lifted, since I won't writhe around on the ground under a car any more.

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There's a big difference between mechanics who are also enthusiasts and they guys who just do it to pay the bills and couldn't care less. Finding a trustworthy garage can be difficult, all the mechanics I've worked with over the years there's not been many who were car enthusiasts.

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I know you need to run them in but what I am saying is there was a definite difference in the CG kit I had and the std setup, the std setup feels the same now as it did out the box if that makes sence?

 

bite and feel is the same where the CG kit was very juddery, mine was a SMF so did what the op did only through 1 2 and 3. and reverse.

 

the DMF takes most of the judder out of them.

to be fair Billy that is why the std clutch will slip when given big torque figures, you cannot have a nice oem feel and the abitity to take huge torque it's one or the other. the oem clutch is designed to do the job with no noise and harshness.

kinda like comparing oem brake pads to mintex 1155 racing pads really they both do a job but the mintex will be noisey and harsh at normal road speeds etc where the std pads will be nice but cook when pushed. I do think you were expecting a bit much from what you bought to be fair and maybe it wasn't explained at the time?

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Guest BigJase88

Sachs organic race engineering clutch that utilises stock dmf

As close to standard clutch as you are likely to get.

No judder and if you didnt know you'd think it was stock

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So I have had my smf and dual friction clutch fitted tonight by my friend mechanic and all went well and it's fine, really pleased with it so far no problems bite is good chatter abit on idle kinda like it tho :) as soon as you put the clutch down it goes, there is a bit of judder on pull off but doesn't bother me, just running it now but will report after :) only thing different is the peddle feels abit lighter

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Gearbox oil degrades. I change mine every other engine service or so. . Metal on metal rubbing will cause friction. Oil reduces friction. But friction will ALWAYS be there. Why do you think gearboxes. Wheel bearings and tyres heat up...

Constant temp changes and contaminants do make gearbox oil degrade. And gearbox oil is hydroscopic and will degrade over time.

So makes sense to change your gearbox oil once in a while. And as for changing your oil when the gearbox when it starts getting hard to change gears and make noises. Its not "rolling the dice" it called common sense. .... try 20 quid and ten minsbefore the big costly job....

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It is rolling the dice, these gearboxes are 'filled for life' with very sophisticated and expensive fully synthetic oil with a carefully matched additive pack, dumping that top quality oil and chucking in some generic crap from Halfords certainly won't help prevent a failure!

 

There's no need to do anything other than check the level, fix any leak and top it up if needed with the correct oil, the gearbox is completely sealed so there's no possibility of contamination. There is absolutely no engineering logic to what you're saying.

 

The word is Hygroscopic by the way and gearbox oil isn't brake fluid, water can't get in and even if it could it would simply sink to the bottom of the gearbox and collect under the oil, the oil isn't pumped and doesn't float any plain bearings so there's no chance for any steam pockets to form and cause damage through cavitation which is what happens inside an engine with water contaminated oil.

 

You're thinking of oxidation which used to happen to the smelly old gearbox oils because they had massive amounts of Zinc based additives to increase the shear strength because the base oil was not synthetic. Gearbox oils haven't been that way for twenty years or more now.

 

I think you'll find that the team of highly qualified and experienced engineers that designed the gearbox will agree with me since they specified the oil and they say it doesn't need changing. Ever.

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No team of gearbox engineers about so lets just stick to our knowm method.

You do know gearbox oil gets thrashed around by gears inside the box. So its not as simple as water sitting at the bottom.

Btw I don't use any old oil . I only use the good stuff. Alls I can say.

. Gearbox wine when I bought the car. Oil change. 'Black wd40' came out. Fresh propper oil went in and 40.000 miles later. Its like new still and quiet;)

Just had a nose and it is meant to be fill for life. But its certainly helped mine when I renewed it. As the cycle of hot cold and the contaminants wont do it any good.

If we are following skodas guidelines. We wouldn't ne adding bigger clutches and making our cars more powerful. Just remember . If your adding more torque to kill a clutch. Just lend a thought for the extra pressures in the gearbox

Ps dain plugs are there for a reason ;)

Edited by fletch101
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Us dice rollers will keep putting fresh oil in when our gearboxes show signs of wear.

the people with a spare grand in there pocket can just chuck a new gearbox in at the signs of wear...

job done. Neither of us will listen. So lets aggree to disagree

oh and. Apologies for lack of spelling and robbing your thread.

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Funny that we have. ALWAYS changed the gear oil at 60k on every skoda we service, and in the 20 years I have been doing so have only had a couple with bad bearings, this on cars we sell from new and majority are back for us to service throughout their lifetime.

Then you have all the ones that have come to us with higher miles which have not had an oil change and needing gearbox repairs on synchro's and bearings . The additive pack degrades so the oil no longer does it's job. The breather on top of the box can let damp air in as it cools down.

But usually by the time you have noticed a gearbox problem changing the oil is too late

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Rather off topic I know...

Have any of you got an idea what the issue is with this traction control light coming on exactly 10 mins after the ignition is switched on? Is it something simple?

This is exactly what I had. Turned an abs wire had broken off right next to the plug (located under the battery). It's a common fault apparently. Had it soldered and now it's all good!
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If we are following skodas guidelines. We wouldn't ne adding bigger clutches and making our cars more powerful. Just remember . If your adding more torque to kill a clutch. Just lend a thought for the extra pressures in the gearbox

Ps dain plugs are there for a reason ;)

 

Now that's a fair point, but the reason the drain plug is there is so that the oil can be drained in order to remove the driveshafts from the differential without getting the garage floor wet! If the gearbox is already damaged then £20 spent on an oil change is the same as burning a £20 note because the correct gearbox oil is about £25 per litre!

 

Funny that we have. ALWAYS changed the gear oil at 60k on every skoda we service, and in the 20 years I have been doing so have only had a couple with bad bearings, this on cars we sell from new and majority are back for us to service throughout their lifetime.

 

I certainly won't disagree with a preventative approach, a fresh fill with top quality oil is of course better than leaving the old stuff in there, I would say that 100k would be fine since it seems that the manufacturers idea of lifetime these days is actually about 10 years.

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Now that's a fair point, but the reason the drain plug is there is so that the oil can be drained in order to remove the driveshafts from the differential without getting the garage floor wet! If the gearbox is already damaged then £20 spent on an oil change is the same as burning a £20 note because the correct gearbox oil is about £25 per litre!

I certainly won't disagree with a preventative approach, a fresh fill with top quality oil is of course better than leaving the old stuff in there, I would say that 100k would be fine since it seems that the manufacturers idea of lifetime these days is actually about 10 years.

Except on an 02m box the driveshafts unbolt, no splines into the gearbox.
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The 7 series gearbox is "sealed for life" but as the get on in years a fair few owners noticed clunky changes from the autobox. Decided to change the oil and hey presto, smooth box again. Loads have done it since, although they are getting on in years

 

On an autobox I couldn't agree more.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Wow so i've just seen, read and digested this mammoth thread today....

 

Our service is honest, fair and backed up with years of first hand experience and knowledge. I'm not happy that mistakes were made like this by our mechanic but when these errors happen we are always the first to put our hands up and rectify them as this thread shows. I'm not sure how many other garages would do this and just blame the parts supplier but we pride our selves on having honesty and integrity at all times. Also to anyone who hasn't used us and wants to question our personal values jump on the M1 or M62 drive to us, look me, Linda and Mick in the eye and explain your problems with our personal values to our face, we will even make you a cup of tea. We are nice people, the reviews of customers who have actually dealt with us will say the same thing.

 

Its strange how many people are quick to jump on and call us a bunch of cowboys that don't understand clutch.... although we have just developed a solid mass flywheel kit capable of holding the same as lb/ft torque as a Sachs SRE kit. Which means you can safely hold 360lb ft with a organic drive plate allowing for a smooth driving feel. Oh and we can build all this with a workforce that's not even 1% of our competition. We are clearly idiots.

 

Our new product range is documented in a bit more detail here.

 

Thanks to Mounty and his honest review of his situation and I look forward to a further update now the full bedding in period has been completed.

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