One of the kids dropped The remote and has broken the wire inside the IR LED.

Are these all similar? It's a Samsung if that helps

As in you need to replace just the led itself? Pretty sure you just get any old IR LED, it's the rest of the circuitry that determines the direct frequencies and signals are sent out of it

There are different types.

Yup just the led. You can see a clear break inside it.

lol, the led is fine. there is no filament in an led .

Put it back together, new batteries and point it towards a decent (non fruit based mobile phone camera)* which will show the emitted light if working.

If not look for a break in the solder joints on the board.

 

*Fruit based mobile phones may be used but I suspect you would have to pay them extra for this use.

Board is fine but Def not working. Was dropped from about 3ft onto the laminate flooring

But seems the TV remote can access some of the functions like skipping to the disk menu.

then the led is working, there is most likely a break in the board, however it could just possibly be a massive coincidence and the carbon tips (under the rubber buttons) are slimed up, gentle wash in soapy water but don't rub hard, dry by dabbing, clean the copper contacts on the board with dry tissue, re assemble and then order a new remote online.

No the DVD remote doesn't work.

However our TV remote has some of the functions so I can use it as a stop gap until I can get the DVD remote repaired.

When our old Samsung tv remote went wrong, I got one through partsmaster online for about £10 brand new if it helps at all.

£10 is a no brainer, or do the things I have suggested and if you have a soldering iron, re wet the led connections and battery connections.

Thanks all. Will have a look at the weekend.

Flea bay might be a way to go . I got a replacement one for our Panasonic TV for less than £10 .

If you can see the led I presume it doesn't/didn't have a dark red plastic cover, think smoked rear light lenses.

Usually they are quite well recessed for protection but you may have been unlucky in that it took a hit just right and broke an already weak solder connection to the board.

Does the remote have any buttons that light up to confirm it is getting power?

Many remotes fail due to poor battery contact being made, poor quality metal on batteries oxidise and impair proper contact, usually a knock or removing the battery cover to rotate the batteries with a finger is enough to get you going again, else clean the battery contacts.

Try resoldering the emitter led if you think it has taken a knock, they aren't liable to fail like an incandescent bulb so a broken solder join is the likely culprit.

If you don't have the gear and there's nothing potentially sensitive around the area like other components, usually not these days.

You can give the solder pads a quick heat with a cigarette lighter to redo the join.

Don't keep the board over the flame for more than a couple of seconds or you'll start cooking something.

I hope this helps.

Took it to pieces to see the led, and the internal bit you can see was definitely broken.

So far I can get by using the TV remote which can control most of the DVD player functions.

A long shot but worth a go...

Pop down to your local recycling centre and ask for a similar remote to cannibalise for an led.

It's quite possible the LEDs will be compatible, remember they are polarised so only work if connected the right way round.

Feel free to crack them open for comparison before you leave.

Took it to pieces to see the led, and the internal bit you can see was definitely broken.

So far I can get by using the TV remote which can control most of the DVD player functions.

 

In an LED, there is what looks like a gap between the two legs.

Since it's encased in plastic, if the plastic is ok, the internals are almost certainly ok.

 

Can you pop a picture up.

I did try but can't get a clear enough picture as don't have a camera with that good a macro function.

IF you feel compete enough to un solder one leg, you can test the LED with a DVM with a diode test range. ( volt drop one way, nothing the other way), or with a moving coil meter ( on ohms range ,NO OTHER ,as most give out too high voltage or drive too much current) , it should be approx half scale one way ,zilch the other .A LED is only a Diode. If that's ok,time to get out the eyeglass and look for PCB cracks .otherwise ,it's get out the spec cleaner cloths and wipe the keyboard contacts. It could be a simple keypad misalignment. 

The IR LED was faulty and I've swapped it with one from an old remote from a long gone mini cd system.

Guessing it didn't like the drop

Good news, hope you cleaned the contact pads at same time .