Skip to content

What should I look out for? (Rover SD1)

Featured Replies

Aside from everything.

Seriously though. One of my mates asked if I was interested in an SD1 (3500) knowing that I absolutely adore that engine. Apparently his aunt's somebody has one he wants to get rid of. Never actually driven an SD1 before, but I'm told its a great car when it works. 

 

1979 SD1 with the 3500 engine and auto tranny, done just short of 33000 miles. Last MOT was in 2001 February, hasn't been fired up since 2005, parked in a heated garage since 2001 May. Surprisingly, not much rust. Some spots from chipped paint but nothing "Sweden" about it at all...

Any common faults too look out for? These are extremely uncommon over here, but I reckon you have a ****load of them in the UK. I know the cops used to roll around in these during the 80's.

Edited by DaKKs_152

I would imagine the same engine as the Range Rover had, it was notorious for oil starvation to the heads, so check oil pressure and have a look in the rocker covers to make sure oil is getting up there, I would also flush the cooling system and all other lubricants as it has been stood for so long.

 If the rust situation is good sounds like a good project/hobby car.

Rust rust rust. As with any BL car, they rust infront of you.

As above, the RV8s do have a few common problems (like heavy cam wear) but with so many cars using the engine, you can buy parts easily.

I would check it has power steering because the sd1's were like driving a tank without. The clutch and box were also heavy but your car has the auto so no worries, cigarette lighter could be accidentally leaned on and wedged into the housing which will flatten the battery if not spotted or even set light to the car. Apart from the general rusting issues encountered on any car from that period I don't recall any other major issues as long as the car is serviced properly.    

Great car when set up right.

Suspension is quite soft and they do roll around a bit.

Loads of tuning options on the engine but other parts are not that easy to come by these days as rust was a big big problem.

 

Rimmer brothers is the place for spares,

Go for it if it's cheap enough. My old man had an ex police one, it succumbed to rust in the end after covering 167,000 miles!

  • Author

The rust isnt that horrible at all. My 1999 Saab has more rust.

The bloke wants 630 quid for it. Its pretty far away so i'll have to arrange transport. He claims its drivable if the engine still starts, but there is no way in hell i'll drive 500km in a car that hasnt has its brakes used in 10 years.

I'll drive down next week and see if it fires up. If it does i reckon its a buy.

As others, if the body's sound it's a goer.

 

For recommissioning, change all fluids and filters. Maybe use an engine flush because it's a hydraulic tappet engine.

Yep, the V8 is the old Buick engine from the 60's, but somewhat revamped. The value lifters are hydraulic and can get a bit "tappety" after 40,000 miles. They can be re shimmed. If it sounds a bit tappety then they probably need doing. Oil change every 3,000 miles to keep the engine sweet, and as said before the cooling system is essential to keep a high level of antifreeze (50%) to slow down any corrosion.

 

The self leveling suspension could be troublesome. Having said that a good one is a sweet drive and the sound of the V8 is the icing on the cake.

The sd1 still looks quite modern, I always wondered what you could do with one today if prepared to spend some money, better brakes, lights, suspension upgrades ect ect. The rover I have a real soft spot for though is a P 6, a nice 2000 tc :happy: very advanced car for it's day.     

A rep friend bought a 2.6 auto and did not get on with it. He had been using ford granada's and ended up getting rid of the rover and went back with ford, a 2.8 granada.  

  • Author

I considered that. Going the other way around for once, but you brits seem to have an issue with having the wheel on the wrong side. We swedes just consider it exotic and, depending on the car, makes in even more desirable. But who am I to complain, half my business is buying LHD cars in the UK and the registering them in Sweden, Norway and Germany. The profit is unreal.

Rust as already mentioned is the end of an SD1, if it's good - get it.  The way things are going with old cars it isn't going to lose you any money.  We'll want plenty of pictures of it.

The V8 needs an oil with a high zddp level like Millers classic performance 20/50, and change the oil/filter regularly the engine is a dirty old girl. Water pumps can be a sod to change as some of the bolts are about 5" long through an alloy pump, through an alloy timing chest, then finally threaded into an alloy block........... the bolt heads like to go PING!

For that money, you've nothing to loose. Just buy it ;)

What are you planning on doing with it? Full resto or just change fluids, brakes, bushes etc and use it?

Have a look at www.aronline.co.uk loads of stuff on BL, includes an SD1 buyers guide

  • Author

The V8 needs an oil with a high zddp level like Millers classic performance 20/50, and change the oil/filter regularly the engine is a dirty old girl. Water pumps can be a sod to change as some of the bolts are about 5" long through an alloy pump, through an alloy timing chest, then finally threaded into an alloy block........... the bolt heads like to go PING!

I've owned both older Dacias and an Allegro. I'm used to POS bolts and crap. Hehe

 

For that money, you've nothing to loose. Just buy it ;)

What are you planning on doing with it? Full resto or just change fluids, brakes, bushes etc and use it?

Tbh, right now it would be just for fun. Fix it up as "enhanced stock"  and just enjoy it. But my dads 9-3 is most likely not passing another MOT anytime soon, so I'll probably give him my 9-5. So this might become my daily driver. We'll see.

 

 

Have a look at www.aronline.co.uk loads of stuff on BL, includes an SD1 buyers guide

 

Oooh! Thanks! I'll definitely look into that!

  • Author

Spoke directly to the owner today. Not just second hand information. Apparently the previous owner cut the fuel line to feed new fuel to the engine directly, instead of feeding the 10 year old petrol from the tank. Fuel line is a bitch on the SD1 apparently... 

Well, ****. This thing is not even driving up the trailer on its own power. 

Are you buying it?

  • Author

Are you buying it?

I'm going down there tomorrow. Borrowed a Solstad transport from a mate so I can bring it back in case I buy it.

I use to do lots with these engines back in the late 70s when building custom cars. The engine is very good, though in its original 180hp form needed 5* fuel the later engines did not. One thing to look at is the rocker shafts as these were prone to ware from the rockers. You can reverse the shaft to some more life out of them. The hydraulic tappets can be stripped and cleaned but it is a PITA to do. They also suffer from overheating if the air bleed pipe off the inlet manifold gets blocked.  The original rocker covers were plastic coated and will now not be looking their best, this coat can be stripped off and then polished up look very good. Hope you have fun with it.

 

John  

A good few around Europe get their engines from RPI Engineering, 

Or their parts when building them selfs. Some Project stuff including the SD1 built for Top Gear.

http://www.v8engines.com

  • Author

Well, off we go then.

Sod the SD1, buy the Solstad! Soooo much cool potential.

Create an account or sign in to comment

Recently Browsing 0

  • No registered users viewing this page.

Important Information

Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Account

Navigation

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.