As per title, searching through the forum I see that fabia vrs tend to suffer from headgasket failure due to head bolt lift, I'm reading that people upgrade to the ARL bolts from darkside

My cambelt and waterpump are due soon, approaching 120k, I'm wondering if it would be worth changing the headgasket at same time with a fresh skoda oem gasket and these arl headbolts??

At present touch wood the head seems ok but I'm thinking preventative maintenance

Any thoughts??

My thoughts are.... If it ain't broke!

....it's about to be soon! :p

My thoughts are.... If it ain't broke!

....it's about to be soon! :p

+1 I agree

Probably a good idea to chuck some ARL bolts at it as a precaution with the miles yours has on it. The ain't expensive. Apart from that tho leave the head alone IMO.

Not many people bother with ARL bolts until they get to 200hp+

Cheers Joe, so not worth replacing gasket?

Just go with the bolts?? Is there any other things worth doing whilst I'm at it??

I'm running mapped about 170bhp. I'd just rather do some basic maintenance than have to start stripping heads, skimming etc...

Cheers Joe, so not worth replacing gasket?

Just go with the bolts?? Is there any other things worth doing whilst I'm at it??

Just do the bolts IMO. Unless is ****ing out fluid...

Make sure whoever does the bolts follows the correct un tightening and re tightening sequence.

Joe

I wouldn't bother.

The only reason I swapped is because I was planning big turbo, and was changing the head for one that had been breathed on.

I wouldn't bother.

 

Wait till you have a problem, don't create one. 

Wait till you have a problem, don't create one.

It's only bolts I wanted to replace rather than risk the head lifting

Then il have to pay to reseat valves. Skim head etc...

I'm getting a big brake kit sorted at present then getting rear arb... Hybrid turbo... Fmic

So rather do it now and get Peace of mind

Edited 11 April, 201412 yr by Jay29

Would just replacing my head bolts with the arl ones work as getting pressure in the system car can be sat all night an in morning there is still pressure in it not loosing much coolant either

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Would just replacing my head bolts with the arl ones work as getting pressure in the system car can be sat all night an in morning there is still pressure in it not loosing much coolant either

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No.

Common problem? News to me! Stock head/bolts etc and 200+ bhp and 174000 miles  I wouldnt bother if there is no issue. 

Edited 13 April, 201412 yr by matt1chelski

Common problem? News to me! Stock head/bolts etc and 200+ bhp and 174000 miles I wouldnt bother if there is no issue.

Seems quite a few people have had the problem from what I'm reading, ATM I'm just getting pressure in system somewhere go for a little drive come back leave the car slight his when you remove the coolant lid go for blast and give it the beans, leave car stood all night come to it in morning take cap off an there's loads of pressure standard apart from remap

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Seems quite a few people have had the problem from what I'm reading, ATM I'm just getting pressure in system somewhere go for a little drive come back leave the car slight his when you remove the coolant lid go for blast and give it the beans, leave car stood all night come to it in morning take cap off an there's loads of pressure standard apart from remap

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You need to replace the head gasket and the bolts since the seal is broken.

At the end of the day wouldn't hurt to replace them if done in the correct manner using proper torque tolerances...

Edited 13 April, 201412 yr by Jay29

His head gasket has more than likely failed anyway though.

I would fit the arl boots and try it the motor in my rally car would do this, and would warm up from cold very quickly, after changing the bolts it has been no problem at all on the last 2 rallies and used no water, there should always be a little pressure in the header bottle as it has a .5 bar pressure cap

What so just do the updates bolts in the right sequence one at a time an hope for best

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Could this pipe with the whole in it cause system to get pressure in it

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What so just do the updates bolts in the right sequence one at a time an hope for best

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sequence does not matter doing them one at a time, sequence is for when you are removing/refitting the head so it does not distort.

and no that pipe will not cause pressure build up, if that hole goes right through it will leak coolant out and release pressure.

Hold on so sequence not needed if just doing bolts? Only torque tolerances you say??

Hold on so sequence not needed if just doing bolts? Only torque tolerances you say??

yeah because your only undoing one bolt at a time and refitting the new bolt before undoing any others.

So in effect the head is still clamped down tight with only one bolt removed at any one time

Ok wicked cheers mate il get onto the case

So is it 40nm all round then tighten to 60nm all round then 90degree turn all round?

How long is the job and what needs taking off??

Edited 17 April, 201412 yr by Jay29

Disconnect breather pipe off inlet,unclip top cambelt cover, cam cover off if its a ASZ engine, if its a BLT you also need to loosen off the inlet manifold so it can be pushed backwards slightly to gain room to remove one of the bolts.

Bit fiddly to do unless you've got girls hands!!