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What tool to flush brake fluid

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2 years passed since the brake fluid has been changed on my car in a workshop.

this time I would like to change it myself.

so I would like to know the following things:

- how much brake fluid do I need?

- what tool works best for the job?

1 litre is probably enough to fill the entire system twice over, generally speaking you don't flush brake fluid as such, you just use the new fluid to push told fluid out of the brake circuits, I use a pressure bleeder that has a pump up bottle type reservoir and if screws onto the master cylinder but it was very expensive (£200) but you can potentially just do it using a one way valve kit for a parts and accessories store.. Don't pump the brake pedal to bleed he system if you can avoid it, it often ruins the seals in the master cylinder.

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about wheels, in what order should I purge the brake fluid?

rear right (RR) -> rear left (RL) -> front right (FR) -> front left (FL) ?

my car has the master cylinder closest to FL wheel.

 

why does pumping the brake pedal ruin the seals in the master cylinder?

don't we pump the brake pedal hundreds of times when driving?

 

I am not sure I understand what kind of DIY tool should I use instead that pressure bleeder.

 

what do you think of this method below?

pros, cons.

 

What size/inner diameter tube would be needed for fitting over the bleed nipples?

about wheels, in what order should I purge the brake fluid?

rear right (RR) -> rear left (RL) -> front right (FR) -> front left (FL) ?

my car has the master cylinder closest to FL wheel.

 

why does pumping the brake pedal ruin the seals in the master cylinder?

don't we pump the brake pedal hundreds of times when driving?

 

yes that us the correct order, it's the same on the right hand drive models too because the brake servo/master cylinder is also fitted on the left hand side on right hand drive models

when you use the brakes it normally only uses a small portion on the travel on the master cylinder, and the seals kind of get used to that amount of movement, when you use the master cylinder to bleed the brakes the pedal travel is much greater which uses an unused portion of the master cylinder's bore, if it's in new or very good condition it would be fine, but if it's as old as the car the seals will be tired and they sometimes break or turn inside out from the extra movement.. Plus the downside is you need 2 people to comete that job too who both and well aware of how the job is done, I prefer a pressure bleeder because it can be done with one man and it's more controlled so it's easier to bleed difficult systems, also having the large bottle reservoir means the it preventing the fluid level accidently dropping below the minimum level and sucking in air.

the cheaper type I refers to uses a non return valve on the bleed nipple and has a tyre valve type fitting so you can use the air pressure from a spare wheel. They are normally less than £40 to buy too.

What size/inner diameter tube would be needed for fitting over the bleed nipples?

3 or 4mm, it's not strictly necessary to use a clear tube, but it does make it easier to spot the air bubbles and colour of the fluid.

Crikey that's a good kit that one, I might go and buy one of those in the morning, that comes with different sized caps too which is really handy, on the felicia the brake master cylinder fluid reservoir cap is 42mm which is fairly standard on a lot of European cars, certainly all vag group stuff is a 42mm cap.. But on mine I also have a hydraulic clutch system too, I used the fluid reservoir from a motorcycle for for clutch fluid but it has a 38mm cap which is a real pain, that kit looks like it comes with it.

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Crikey that's a good kit that one, I might go and buy one of those in the morning, that comes with different sized caps too which is really handy, on the felicia the brake master cylinder fluid reservoir cap is 42mm which is fairly standard on a lot of European cars, certainly all vag group stuff is a 42mm cap.

that is a clever device.

I can DIY one with a reservoir cap from the scrapyard.

not sure where to get a small 1way valve from though...

cheers :thumbup: all for help.

dohnjoe- perhaps get a spare cap from a scrapper, and use a cycle valve ( car sized one) sealed through it. Just a DIY thought up bodge, but it might justr work .

that is a clever device.

I can DIY one with a reservoir cap from the scrapyard.

not sure where to get a small 1way valve from though...

cheers :thumbup: all for help.

thinking about it, there's no reason why you would need a one way valve, the whole point of it is for novices, it prevents flud from reversing back into the bleed nipples, but an experienced person like you should be able to cope with just fine control on the bleed nipple opening, the other important thing to use is a decent 6 sided flare nut spanner on the bleed nipples, if you use a normal open end or ring spanner they normally just round off.
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I see... but what about the method shown in the video posted earlier?

please comment on it.

Yes the method in the video is ok but only if there is a non return valve on the bleed nipple clear tube, personally I prefer to do a 2 man job of that method so that you close the nipple as fluid is still moving out rather than doing what he did and pump the pedal and leave it.. Like I said before for changing the fluid in the entire system you are best off using some sort of pressure bleed system, on some cars with abs and/or hydraulic clutch system you have no choice but to pressure bleed the system, on mk4 golf platform cars (octy 1) there is also 2 additional bleed nipples on the brake master cylinder.

felicia has a diagonally split hydraulic circuit but in honesty I doesn't really matter which order you do them. Like I said before I don't pump the pedal to expel fluid, it's the best way to ruin a seal.

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