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Strut/spring question and is there a howto?

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Hi All

Should be getting new suspension kit delivered next week.

Are there any instructions on how to change the suspension?

Once you dismantle the bottom end and the three bolts at the top, if you leave the centre nut, or just loosten it slightly, can you remove the whole strut/spring assembly as a complete unit without putting the spring clamps on?

There doesnt look like a lot of room to get the clamps on so it would be much easier when the assembly is removed from the car.

  • Author

Thanks for that. Gonna try it myself. Looks a bit of a PITA though.

Having recently replaced a spring and trying the shortcut method of not removing the driveshaft bolt and levering the wishbone/hub downwards and failing, I seem to recall there just wasn't enough room to fit spring compressors in situ.

It's actually a straight forward job except for the FARB drop links which may well need grinding off so having a couple of new ones on standby wouldn't be a bad idea.

Spreading the hub enough to allow the strut bottom to slide out is key, especially on refitting, watch out for the locating fin on the strut catching on whatever you use to spread the hub. I think I used a big screwdriver to spread the hub enough to get a large Allen key in which I then turned to spread it further.

I found one of the top 3 mounting bolts seized and the bottom end broke free from its press fit fixture, necessitating cutting the bolt through with a junior hacksaw blade gripped in a pair of locking grips... Not fun. A regular nut and bolt and a couple of washers were used on refitting.

So apart from the drop link nut/bolt and the top nut/bolt it was an OK job... other than finding a socket to fit the 27mm? driveshaft bolt, in the end I borrowed a 1" 1/8th socket if memory serves me correct.

  • Author

Thanks. Does the 27mm socket need to be a deep socket?

No I don't recall any special requirements, however this was a regular six sided bolt that had been put in place of the original 12 sided Skoda bolt so best see what's hiding under your wheel, don't quote me directly on the 27mm/1" 1/8 size, I may be out a bit, sorry.

Do not slacken the hub bolt more than 90deg with weight on wheel else bearing damage possible.

On mkII diesel torque 6 sided bolt to 200Nm then a further 180deg.

12 sided bolt, 70Nm then 90deg.

All things being equal ie bolt diameter, thread pitch, metal. I can only assume lesser torque of 12 sided bolt is due to head fragility.

I didn't have my torque wrench at the time I did mine and just used common sense to put my weight on the wrench.

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