I have just changed my discs and pads all round on my Yeti 4x4 140bhp and I have the check brake pads light coming up periodically on the info screen. The lead from the near side brake pad is connected. Do I have to take it to a dealer to reset or can it be done by me on the info screen? Only I can't work out how. Cheers Pit-Yaka.

I would check the brake fluid level.

I would check the brake fluid level.

I wouldnt. Low fluid will bring on the handbrake light in red.

I wouldnt. Low fluid will bring on the handbrake light in red.

New pads - What happens if the fluid level goes over the "maximum" mark?

I wouldnt. Low fluid will bring on the handbrake light in red.

Eh No, page 19 of the manual states.. Handbrake light illuminates when handbrake applied. Brake warning light illuminates when brake fluid low or problem with braking system ie ABS. Although there is a separate ABS fault light.

brake fluid level ok as I topped it up when I had problem with getting offside rear piston to go back and I cracked open the nipple and released about a tablespoon of fluid. There is only one pad with the pigtail lead and that is front near side this was reconnected to female socket on ABS harness wiring. The handbrake and brakes generally are great, all bedded in no problem nothing sticking. Only reason I changed the kit all round is because of an mot advisory on scored offside rear disc so bit the bullet and did the lot. Then this bloody warning light appeared.

I would check the lead connection. Disconnect and blow it out. Otherwise it's an iffy pad.

 The connection the pins were not long enough on the pigtail lead from the pad to make contact with the receiving connection on the car. Modified the lead and it is now sorted. Cheers.

..... I had problem with getting offside rear piston to go back and I cracked open the nipple and released about a tablespoon of fluid.......

This is always a good idea when pushing back caliper pistons. The fluid that accumulates behind the piston is subject to the most intensive heat cycles and so degrades over time (unless you're using silicone based fluid). Hence better to expel it and let fresh(er) fluid replace anyway. Also makes push back a lot easier.  On some cars, pushing back the fluid past the master cylinder can flip the seals on the master cyl. too, so is not recommended. If you combine pad replacement with flushing and replacing the fluid, that's two jobs done in the one hit     Certainly for my usage/annual mileage the pads are due at about the same 2-year intervals as the fluid anyway, so it all makes sense?

Edited 3 May, 201412 yr by FlintstoneR1