A/C condenser replacement 2012 Vrs tdi

[Davidsr20]

My aircon has stopped working,only noticed a few days ago in the warm weather,my car is out of warranty since April 18th,I'm hoping it's not the pump as the car has only 20k miles done. I do see a small stone damage hole in the condenser so this must be why.

When I activate the ac it kicks in but not cold,I also hear a fairly load hissing noise from behind the vents,is this a sign of low gas?

Anyway my main question is how much stripping is there to replace the condenser? Or has anyone done one,I'm a mechanic by trade but never done much work on these yet.

Also I'm hoping it can be repaired rather than having to buy a new one.

Thanks in advance.

[erindad]

Don't know about the fl model but the mk2 the bumper has to come off along with headlights etc. there is a how to for the mk2 on the forum. I don't think the FL would be much different. 

 I did mine on the drive at home 3/4 hours lying on my back , getting up and down when I discovered I needed a different spanner etc., you'll be quicker with a ramp.

 

Found this a while ago but cant find it now ,

I have a 2005 1.9 TDi and whilst it is necessary to remove most of the front end of the car to replace the condenser, you do not have to drain the car’s coolant system (I believe this is required for FSI engines). I will describe how I managed to get the Lock Carrier into the Service Position, and then replaced the condenser. The basic process is remove headlights, then bumper, mark body work positions, release Lock carrier, pull forward Lock carrier, release radiator assembly and remove condenser. My aircon system was empty (hence the repair) but otherwise the gas would need evacuating by an authorised person.

Your will need Torx bits T25/T30/T45, and a M8 Spline bit. You will also need to source min 4 and max 8 M10 bolts of approx 120mm length. I used 4 x M10x120mm bolts (normal thread not fine engineering thread) that only had the thread on the last 30mm. This meant that I could tighten them into the bottom Lock Carrier screw threads and the Lock Carrier would then run easily over the unthreaded section.

To remove the headlights, open the bonnet and remove the white nylon threaded fastener that is located just on the top inboard side of the bulkhead each side of the car. These can be removed with the fingers. You then need to locate the metal hockey stick shaped lever that sits on top of the bumper and below the headlight on the inboard edge of the unit. This lever needs to be pulled towards the centreline of the car (towards the other headlight). Mine were stiff and I used the shaft of a screwdriver rather than my finger. As you move the lever the headlight will release and can then be pulled forward. Slide the headlight forwards out of the housing and detach the wiring loom. Nothing that you have done impacts on headlight alignment assuming you re-assemble it correctly.

The bumper removal is actually quite easy if you tackle it methodically. Remove the 2 plastic trim panels at the bottom of the bumper inboard of the fog lights. These pull out with care to reveal a couple of torx (T25) screws. Next, move up to the top edge of the bumper in the area where the headlights have been removed. You will see that there are 2 plastic expanding rivets each side.  These are fairly easy to remove by placing a flat edge under the centre plastic peg and slowly levering out the pin. The main fixing then removes easily. Whilst you have the technique and the selected tool in your hand, move down underneath the front edge of the bumper and remove the 3 plastic expanding rivets that sit in the centre section. Whilst down there you can remove the torx(T25) screws (2 each side) outboard of the expanding rivets. I suggest you now deal with the fixings inside the wheel arches. You may need to turn the steering to provide more room at the front of the wheel arch.  You have to remove the 3 torx (T25) screws at the bottom, front, outside edge of the wheel arch.  Once you have taken all 3 out you need to lift the bottom edge of the upper wheel arch cover to find the last remaining torx (T25) screw. This is hidden on the rear face of the bumper assembly about 10 cm front the top and about 5 cm forward of the wheel arch. The screw actually compresses a spring clip and one of mine popped off anyway whilst I was searching for it. All you have to do now is to remove the obvious 5 bolts on the top (T30) and front face (T25). When you pull forward the bumper remember to pull off the headlight washer covers (these pop off), the washer nozzles (or hoses) and disconnect the fog lights.

With the bumper removed the left and right plastic bumper carriers come next. These are just below the headlight area and are each fixed with 2 screws.

To ensure that I did not have any alignment problems on assembly I marked all of the key panel mating points with tippex. There are 4 big bolts each side holding the main bumper reinforcement to the front chassis (these are the ones you will replace): I marked this panel for left/right and up/down alignment. I also marked the inboard top of each wing section above the inboard edge of the headlight section. One not to forget is the single bolt each side of the car on the lower headlight section (to minimise risk of headlight alignment changes).

I took out the air intake box at the top right of the front section but you only have to disconnect the air hose. You do this by lifting the top panel of the box to allow the pipe to be released. Next release the bonnet opening cable by finding the plastic connecting box (about 1 cm in diameter and 10 cm long about 20cm from the bonnet catch. When you lift the cover on this connector you will see then the cable separates easily. At the same time disconnect the alarm wire in the same location. This is where you drain the coolant and separate the top hose for some engines (FSI?)

 Almost there! Remove the spline (M8) bolts each side of the panel containing the bonnet latch. Remove the 8 spline(M8) bolts that hold the main cross member on to the chassis. I took the bottom ones out first and replaced them with the long M10 bolts. Finally remove the bolt each side of the section at the lower rear of the headlight void. 

The only thing now preventing you pulling forward the Lock Carrier is the aircon pipework to the condenser. Place some form of fluid catcher (even if only newspaper) under these pipes before undoing them because they contain some coolant oil. The flange is secured with torx (T45) bolts and once removed it is difficult to separate: be patient to avoid damaging the mating surfaces. The condenser holds about 10cl of coolant oil so handle it carefully to avoid spillages. Once the coolant pipes are separated you can pull forward the entire assembly. Stand back and panic about how an earth you are going to get it all back together! I was at about the hour and a half point by now.

Before releasing the 4 radiator (T30) screws (2 on each side of the frame assembly) to permit access to the condenser, I took the weight of the radiator onto the upper frame panels by looping a chain of plastic cable ties together around the coolant pipes on the top radiator face and through the upper holes in the car body work that were secured with M8 spline bolts to locate the front Lock carrier.  It wasn’t pretty but it did the job.  I then removed the 4 radiator screws and then the further 4 (T30) screws holding the condenser to the radiator’s front face.  It was a bit of a juggle to extract the condenser and an extra set of hands would be of great use.  I was glad I put a plastic bag over the end of the coolant pipes to prevent the oil spilling out of the condenser.

As they say in all good manuals; refitting is simply the reverse of the process.  I did not replace the o rings because I couldn’t find the size required (not in all “common items packs” I looked at). You must also remember to get your aircon tech to add more oil to the system when he re-gasses it (the book says about 10% of the total volume for your system).  There is a total of 110cm3 (plus or minus 10cm3) in a Sanden compressor system. Using the alignment markings that I made I had no problem getting everything back with good panel fit and without any impact on headlight alignment. In total it took me just over 2 hours 30 mins and saved me a £200 labour charge.

 

Hope it helps.

[Auric Goldfinger]

My Condenser is stone damaged but not holed as the temperature  is super cool.

 

I have removed the lower grill and wire tied fine aluminium mess to the inside and replaced

 

Hopefully this will stop any more damage

 

Total cost about £15

[Davidsr20]

Thanks erindad very helpful. Why did u have to replace the 4 bolts tough?

Iv use of a lift so should make it easier too.

Edited 1 May, 2014 by Davidsr20

[erindad]

The 4  10m  bolts were only in place so that the lock carrier could be slid forward instead of taking it right off, its easier that way. The originals were put back when rebuilding.  Is that the 4 bolts you mean?

 

 Just to clarify things I did not post the instructions originally , awhile ago I found them on this forum and made a copy but cant find where now

[thomasj]

On 01/05/2014 at 20:19, erindad said:

Don't know about the fl model but the mk2 the bumper has to come off along with headlights etc. there is a how to for the mk2 on the forum. I don't think the FL would be much different. 

 I did mine on the drive at home 3/4 hours lying on my back , getting up and down when I discovered I needed a different spanner etc., you'll be quicker with a ramp.

 

Found this a while ago but cant find it now ,

I have a 2005 1.9 TDi and whilst it is necessary to remove most of the front end of the car to replace the condenser, you do not have to drain the car’s coolant system (I believe this is required for FSI engines). I will describe how I managed to get the Lock Carrier into the Service Position, and then replaced the condenser. The basic process is remove headlights, then bumper, mark body work positions, release Lock carrier, pull forward Lock carrier, release radiator assembly and remove condenser. My aircon system was empty (hence the repair) but otherwise the gas would need evacuating by an authorised person.

Your will need Torx bits T25/T30/T45, and a M8 Spline bit. You will also need to source min 4 and max 8 M10 bolts of approx 120mm length. I used 4 x M10x120mm bolts (normal thread not fine engineering thread) that only had the thread on the last 30mm. This meant that I could tighten them into the bottom Lock Carrier screw threads and the Lock Carrier would then run easily over the unthreaded section.

To remove the headlights, open the bonnet and remove the white nylon threaded fastener that is located just on the top inboard side of the bulkhead each side of the car. These can be removed with the fingers. You then need to locate the metal hockey stick shaped lever that sits on top of the bumper and below the headlight on the inboard edge of the unit. This lever needs to be pulled towards the centreline of the car (towards the other headlight). Mine were stiff and I used the shaft of a screwdriver rather than my finger. As you move the lever the headlight will release and can then be pulled forward. Slide the headlight forwards out of the housing and detach the wiring loom. Nothing that you have done impacts on headlight alignment assuming you re-assemble it correctly.

The bumper removal is actually quite easy if you tackle it methodically. Remove the 2 plastic trim panels at the bottom of the bumper inboard of the fog lights. These pull out with care to reveal a couple of torx (T25) screws. Next, move up to the top edge of the bumper in the area where the headlights have been removed. You will see that there are 2 plastic expanding rivets each side.  These are fairly easy to remove by placing a flat edge under the centre plastic peg and slowly levering out the pin. The main fixing then removes easily. Whilst you have the technique and the selected tool in your hand, move down underneath the front edge of the bumper and remove the 3 plastic expanding rivets that sit in the centre section. Whilst down there you can remove the torx(T25) screws (2 each side) outboard of the expanding rivets. I suggest you now deal with the fixings inside the wheel arches. You may need to turn the steering to provide more room at the front of the wheel arch.  You have to remove the 3 torx (T25) screws at the bottom, front, outside edge of the wheel arch.  Once you have taken all 3 out you need to lift the bottom edge of the upper wheel arch cover to find the last remaining torx (T25) screw. This is hidden on the rear face of the bumper assembly about 10 cm front the top and about 5 cm forward of the wheel arch. The screw actually compresses a spring clip and one of mine popped off anyway whilst I was searching for it. All you have to do now is to remove the obvious 5 bolts on the top (T30) and front face (T25). When you pull forward the bumper remember to pull off the headlight washer covers (these pop off), the washer nozzles (or hoses) and disconnect the fog lights.

With the bumper removed the left and right plastic bumper carriers come next. These are just below the headlight area and are each fixed with 2 screws.

To ensure that I did not have any alignment problems on assembly I marked all of the key panel mating points with tippex. There are 4 big bolts each side holding the main bumper reinforcement to the front chassis (these are the ones you will replace): I marked this panel for left/right and up/down alignment. I also marked the inboard top of each wing section above the inboard edge of the headlight section. One not to forget is the single bolt each side of the car on the lower headlight section (to minimise risk of headlight alignment changes).

I took out the air intake box at the top right of the front section but you only have to disconnect the air hose. You do this by lifting the top panel of the box to allow the pipe to be released. Next release the bonnet opening cable by finding the plastic connecting box (about 1 cm in diameter and 10 cm long about 20cm from the bonnet catch. When you lift the cover on this connector you will see then the cable separates easily. At the same time disconnect the alarm wire in the same location. This is where you drain the coolant and separate the top hose for some engines (FSI?)

 Almost there! Remove the spline (M8) bolts each side of the panel containing the bonnet latch. Remove the 8 spline(M8) bolts that hold the main cross member on to the chassis. I took the bottom ones out first and replaced them with the long M10 bolts. Finally remove the bolt each side of the section at the lower rear of the headlight void. 

The only thing now preventing you pulling forward the Lock Carrier is the aircon pipework to the condenser. Place some form of fluid catcher (even if only newspaper) under these pipes before undoing them because they contain some coolant oil. The flange is secured with torx (T45) bolts and once removed it is difficult to separate: be patient to avoid damaging the mating surfaces. The condenser holds about 10cl of coolant oil so handle it carefully to avoid spillages. Once the coolant pipes are separated you can pull forward the entire assembly. Stand back and panic about how an earth you are going to get it all back together! I was at about the hour and a half point by now.

Before releasing the 4 radiator (T30) screws (2 on each side of the frame assembly) to permit access to the condenser, I took the weight of the radiator onto the upper frame panels by looping a chain of plastic cable ties together around the coolant pipes on the top radiator face and through the upper holes in the car body work that were secured with M8 spline bolts to locate the front Lock carrier.  It wasn’t pretty but it did the job.  I then removed the 4 radiator screws and then the further 4 (T30) screws holding the condenser to the radiator’s front face.  It was a bit of a juggle to extract the condenser and an extra set of hands would be of great use.  I was glad I put a plastic bag over the end of the coolant pipes to prevent the oil spilling out of the condenser.

As they say in all good manuals; refitting is simply the reverse of the process.  I did not replace the o rings because I couldn’t find the size required (not in all “common items packs” I looked at). You must also remember to get your aircon tech to add more oil to the system when he re-gasses it (the book says about 10% of the total volume for your system).  There is a total of 110cm3 (plus or minus 10cm3) in a Sanden compressor system. Using the alignment markings that I made I had no problem getting everything back with good panel fit and without any impact on headlight alignment. In total it took me just over 2 hours 30 mins and saved me a £200 labour charge.

 

Hope it helps.

I have been replacing the AC Compressor on an 06 plate Vrs today. Obviously there are a few differences to the above car. I had some trouble removing the small plastic pegs under the headlights, 2 either side and 3 in the middle of the bumper underneath. It seems best to grip and twist the mushroom heads on the pegs first before trying to lever them out. One snapped and I had to drill the plastic pin out. Its probably sensible to have some new spares to be honest as they are flimsy.

 

I followed the instruction above to remove the bumper but discovered that there are 2 more T25 Torx screws behind the removable corner pieces of the lower grill. I have also got spare undertray screws and locking nuts as these seem to be the same here and under the wheel arches and some will need replacing for sure.

 

I pulled the front forward a bit but it was restricted by one of the Condenser pipes. I undid the bolt but it was very tight because of dis-similar metals reacting so take care there!!

 

To enable access to the compressor I removed the fan unit from behind the radiator. This allows plenty of room to undo the AC pipes again the roll pins had reacted Steel to Aluminium so they can be tricky to remove.

 

I removed a small Black tank 2 bolts 1 nut all 100mm located on the chassis near the Aux Belt tensioner and used a 5 mm Drill to lock it releasing the belt.

 

When I released the 3 compressor bolts it lifted out quite easily past the Radiator and the Alternator.

 

Allow plenty of time to do this job or let your favourite garage struggle with it!!

 

I hope this post is of help to Vrs owners and others.