Hi me again with another problem lol. I just had car serviced by a home mechanic (family friend). He's used recommended oil , platinum plugs, air filter, oil filter, cabin filter, fuel filter and refreshed the coolant and washer fluid.

After an initial road test all seemed fine at first but now when the cars idling it appears to be misfiring (little pops from exhaust and engine judders).

When driving the car or even giving it some it's fine doesn't feel under powered and no sign of a misfire.

I've looked at the vac pipes and for loose wires but all seems fine. When looking at the Rev counter the needle fluctuates from 700-750ish? And you can feel the vibration from the engine.

Any ideas? Thanks

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Also the car isn't mapped as far as I'm aware just has a cat back fitted which was done in my ownership...

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Edited 9 May, 201412 yr by r8Dec

Just a guess but check spark plugs are roughly right torque / tight enough as that happened to one I put in for a service also try how coil packs are seated and their wires are on fully

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Just a guess but check spark plugs are roughly right torque / tight enough as that happened to one I put in for a service also try how coil packs are seated and their wires are on fully

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Hi thanks for your reply. I pressed on the coil packs and checked wires n they seemed ok, don't have the right tool to check plug tightness. Wouldn't it misfire all the time if this was the case?

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I have this list of known causes of rough idling...

Rough Running At Idle - MAF, Ignition Coil, Spark Plug, VAC Leak, O2 Sensor, TB, CT.

I dont have access to a fault scanner gizmo so can anyone give me an idea on a route to take with each 1 to eliminate those being the cause?

I.E. will unplugging the MAF be a way of diagnosis?

Much appreciated.

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Funnily enough exactly the same has happened to me - had mine serviced a few weeks back and ever since it's been misfiring (exhaust judder, rough idle, etc).

 

Try running with MAF unplugged - easy to rule that out.

 

 

Have you had the coilpack recall done?

Spark plugs gapped correctly?

Did u keep your old plugs? If so put them back in and see if things improve

I will try the MAF. Mechanic said the plugs was the same as what was already in but I have no idea if he still has old ones.

He's having a look at it on Monday after work but was a little baffled to what it could be, said he'd not changed anything was just a straight forward service.

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no scan was done?

no scan was done?

What do you mean? I already said that I don't have a scanner or no of anyone that does. I know it makes life alot easier but I just don't have that at hand.

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I've just tried unplugging MAF once ive got to work and it still misfire on idle so it rules that one out?

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you must get a VAG COM or a VCDS scan tool,is the first step.

Get a code reader

I would say it's probably non gapped spark plugs

Simple code reader on ebay for £15-30

Surely your mate has one if he does mechanics?

Simple code reader on ebay for £15-30

Surely your mate has one if he does mechanics?

If a simple scanner will do the trick then I may be in luck, wasn't sure if it had to be a technical device over £100 mark.

I know my dad has something red that he uses on his 95 aero that reads basic info I will ask him. Otherwise I will get my mechanic to source someone.

Thanks guys.

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That should work hopefully

Had the same problem with mine and replaced the maf, seemed to run better but still had eml light on and found a big split in one of the vac pipes under the inlet manifold. Changed the pipe at a cost of £18 and now it runs spot on. I ran the engine and could feel a slight blow on my hand when feeling around.

Had the same problem with mine and replaced the maf, seemed to run better but still had eml light on and found a big split in one of the vac pipes under the inlet manifold. Changed the pipe at a cost of £18 and now it runs spot on. I ran the engine and could feel a slight blow on my hand when feeling around.

I dont have any lights on the dash it's just the rough idling. I've tried checking vac pipes best I could knowing where they go to, so many pipes and very little knowledge. (This is my first turbo car) i will have a second look though.

Thanks

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Edited 10 May, 201412 yr by r8Dec

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k312/tony_bennett4/20140510_114039_zpsxytxw0kx.jpg

My split pipe.

Right just used me dads scanner and this is the result...

Engine start blocked by immobiliser: p1570

Random multiple misfire detect: p0300

Cylinder 2 misfire detect: p0302

Mass air flow sensor (g70) : p0102 signal too low Fuel level too low: p1250

I think MAF has shown because I disconnected it and fuel is currently low.

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If MAF was unplugged then it will bring up a fault but plug it back in and see if fault still there?

Was ignition in the II position?

Was ignition in the II position?

Yes mate

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These could be old codes