Hi guys!
 
Not the first time I'm having issues with my 2003 Fabia Estate Comfort, but this time at least it's not engine related. This Monday, my driver window suddenly failed. While rolling down (electric) I heard the sound of something collapsing inside the window. The window kept going all the way down, and would not move up even though I pressed the button. Horrible sound came from inside when I did so, though. Anyways, I read dozens of threads on this forum about this exact issue, so although I was horrified about cost and everything, I found some comfort in knowing that people around had actually somehow coped with these type of issues before.
 

 
Well, I quickly decided that this was too big DIY operation for me, and since it did not feel like the typical "generic" operation, e.g. changing anti-roll bar struts (which is pretty much the same for any car), I decided to head over to the authorized ŠKODA garage where I live, i.e. not some random not-car-specific garage around the corner. So, mechanic took a quick look and I was told that that lever had probably snapped, and since these was not sold separately, I needed to get a whole new lifter. The part plus labor would land me on approx 2500 Swedish crowns (~225 British pounds). I was horrified. That Monday had started so good, nice weather and all, and now this. Anyways, I decided to proceed, and we booked time; earlier this very Thursday.
 
However, I'm a disaster when it comes to just resting. I thought to myself that I wanted to see what sort of labor I was really about to pay for, and I also though that perhaps I could get them more reasonable in their pricing if I had done half the job (dis-assembly) by myself. So, I took notes partly from my Haynes manual, partly from all mentioned threads in the community. Oh, according to Haynes they started using rivets instead of bolts for the carrier in production line by November 2003. My car rolled out from the factory the summer of 2003, so I had hope, and thankfully I was right, carrier was bolted. I took window down and then started with the carrier. Like just about everyone in all these threads I got stuck on that damn connector to the lock latch/housing.
 
I got carried away and an hour later I noticed that I had caused some damage to the plastic coating. Also, when I was roughly rocking the entire assembly back and forth, suddenly the door knob started acting up, up and down, up and down, a couple of times, then it stopped. I kept working the connector for some time, but then it got dark, and I felt that it was time to surrender the task.
 
So, thanks for reading this far, guys.
 
YOUR COULD START READING HERE IF YOU DON'T WANT THE BORING BACKGROUND!

Now, today I left my Fabia to our local ŠKODA garage in to get a new driver-side window regulator. The operation took some time and I was billed [what equals to] roughly £220. When I was about to get the car, mechanic said he wanted to ask me if I had issues with the lock before the window incident. No, I hadn't, but I admitted that I had been very violent with the lock housing when trying to get the connector of, and that I had probably myself to blame if something had been broken. He did — however — not think it was such a big deal that I should change the lock housing, but I was given the OEM number (3B1837015AQ) for it, if I ever decided to replace it.
 
At that point, I could not see the actual meaning by what he was telling me about the central lock. Later, when I had parked at home, I realized that something was really not right. My driver lock is somehow cut of from the mainline of the central lock system. I can lock/unlock the door from outside with my key, but it does not affect the other doors, nor the trunk.
 
Well, I've put up a video to give you a visual of my situation, if you think it's better than reading.
 

 
I found this thread where started seems to have suffered from a related issue, although he's having remote central lock. Also this thread seems to discuss related issues.
 
Does any of you guys have experience with this? Not even that Skoda mechanic could tell me exactly what had happened, but my guess is that I've bashed the micro switch.
 
Any thoughts or ideas? Could the micro switch by any chance just be a bit dislocated, i.e. giving me a chance to put it right if I successfully dissembled the door interior/lock casing again?
 
I'd be much grateful for anything that would shed light over this! :think:
 
Cheers!

looks like the lock's outta synch. Has it been replaced?

Thanks for your quick response @Lee01, much appreciated! :clap:

 

However, I'm actually willing to put my two cents on something than the "sync issue" (that has been up in a couple of other threads) here. First, I think this sync thing more or less goes for remote central locks only. Like I said, I'm having the classic metal-only type of key. Anyways, I was actually still putting some hope in this being the case, so I did remove the negative (battery) and let it be off for 10 minutes or so. When it was back on, all that had changed was that I had lost all my FM presets, Bluetooth pairing, trip computer data, time/date, etc. The lock issue was still present. Dough. Me not so happy, no.

 

Now, I've been doing some reading on similar issues, primarily on VAG cars; this one in particular. Now, I'm really starting to think that I somehow broke a micro switch in the lock housing when trying to unplug that damn connector. I'm not sure if I wrote it earlier, but when I was violently wagging the connector (and sometimes the entire look chest; due to aggression at the time being) back and forth, all of a sudden the lock pin went down; i.e. driver's door locked itself, like a ghost. Split second later it unlocked, and relocked, and unlocked, for a a handful of times. Then it stopped.

 

Later on, when turning the key in the driver side door this was the only door lock affected, i.e. the same situation that I'm describing here all in all. Thing is, first I thought that it was all because I had unplugged all (three) connectors that are near the window motor, if you know what I mean. I was sure that as soon as I got these connectors plugged back in, everything would work fine again. Now, I was wrong.

 

Also, like I show in my video, I'm now noticing that putting the cabin light in that mode where it's supposed to dim and go off in like 30 seconds after door does not work with driver side door. Again, I'm putting my two cents on something with a micro switch here.

 

Does anyone agree? Other thoughts? People are talking about cleaning the lock chest from torn plastic and stuff, making it work again, and I was thinking maybe I'd try and pull this of before I go and get a new. Well, second-hand, of course; a brand new item is [equal to] ~£180 around where I live.

 

Also, finally, I just found that my trunk lock has started acting up as well. Is this just a coincidence, or could it be interconnected with broke switch in driver's door, somehow? At the moment my (Estate) boot door does not open even if I press the unlock button in the driver's side door, or actually turning the key in the passenger side door. Really strange.

 

Needless to say; anything that could shed light over this would be highly appreciated!

 

Cheers!