Went to Ikea (as if that isn't bad enough) this evening, and on the way home was on a slip-road waiting to get on to the motorway, put my foot down and nothing happened, no power whatsoever even flat out. 

 

Pulled over to the hard shoulder, power steering cut out, lights were still on as normal etc. Whacked the hazard lights on and waited for about 20 seconds.

 

Turned the key, nothing other than a repetitive judder and lights on the dash etc. Got out, made a call to try and get recovery and turned the lights off in case it was battery related.

 

Got back in the car about 5 mins later for one last try, started right away and lasted the remainder of the 30 minute journey home as though nothing had happened!

 

Anyone got any ideas what could've caused this? Doubt it was battery as I've not had any issues with it until now, and the car had a 40-odd minute run about 2 hours before this issue happened. As far as I'm aware nothing was left on during the two hours and the car started with no problem at the initial start of the journey.

 

Seems weird for it to cut out whilst driving (about 10 minutes into the journey) if it is the battery?

 

Cheers guys,

Bill

Any clues to what your car is Bill?  I see nothing in the post or your signature that tells anyone anything!   Glad it's started working again tho!

If it's a mk 1 octy look for relay 109 and replace it.

It is this car.

For sale is the best car I've owned.

Race blue jan o6 on vrs reg, genuine miles of only 36k, had the car from 14k and its been faultless.

Car is revo stage 2 ,Milltek 200cell sports cat and full system,  weitech suspension, whiteline anti roll bars front and back ,  4 virtually new rainsports BSH inlet with modified cover, serviced properly and belts and water pump done around 5k ago.......

Any clues to what your car is Bill?  I see nothing in the post or your signature that tells anyone anything!   Glad it's started working again tho!

 

My bad, sorry! Tried to write this quickly before I headed to bed last night. It's a 2006 Octavia MK2 vRS.

 

It is this car.

 

 

:clap: Cheers buddy!

Anyone got any other ideas guys? Need the car for daily use and could do without cutting out everywhere! :(

If you have had the car since Dec 13/ Jan 14 and it has cut out once, I would not call that cutting out everywhere. I'm sure you will get some help over the next couple of days, but if you are in a rush, the best bet is to get it in to have the faults/errors checked.

From the symptoms you describe it sounds electrical. So check the obvious first - that the battery terminals are tight and clean. Then check the battery i.e. that its showing 12.5v+, then try and start the car the voltage should not drop below 10.5v. If it does the battery may be suspect. Once the car is started the charging rate should rise to about 13.5v. If it does not rise then the alternator could be suspect. Also have a good look around and make sure nothing electrical is loose.  After this I would get it scanned with vcds to see if any error codes have been stored.

If you have had the car since Dec 13/ Jan 14 and it has cut out once, I would not call that cutting out everywhere. I'm sure you will get some help over the next couple of days, but if you are in a rush, the best bet is to get it in to have the faults/errors checked.

 

I wasn't aware that I had implied it was currently cutting out everywhere, once is enough to be seriously concerned when you're stood on the side of a road at 11pm where most cars are doing 90/100mph. After all, there must be a reason as to why it happened.

 

May well get it checked, thanks for the advice.

 

From the symptoms you describe it sounds electrical. So check the obvious first - that the battery terminals are tight and clean. Then check the battery i.e. that its showing 12.5v+, then try and start the car the voltage should not drop below 10.5v. If it does the battery may be suspect. Once the car is started the charging rate should rise to about 13.5v. If it does not rise then the alternator could be suspect. Also have a good look around and make sure nothing electrical is loose.  After this I would get it scanned with vcds to see if any error codes have been stored.

 

Great advice, thank you for that. I'll see if I can find anywhere that might have vcds locally who could help me out tomorrow.

Mk 2, check the under bonnet fuse box is close, sealed and dry.

Is this not the injector fault everyone used to talk about where Skoda had to recall all their cars.

I may be wrong but people used to mention of their cars cutting out on them and it was down to the injectors.

??!

Check the list of VCDS owners below to see if you live near any of the 3 members in Essex who might be willing to help with a scan.

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com/

Is this not the injector fault everyone used to talk about where Skoda had to recall all their cars.

I may be wrong but people used to mention of their cars cutting out on them and it was down to the injectors.

??!

Are you perhaps thinking of the fault with Siemens piezo injectors? That only affected diesels, and the only Skoda to suffer with it was the PD170 engine.

It sounds like something electrical. I had a short circuit in my engine room when an amp power cable fell on the turbo actuator on my PD170. Happened just as i accelerated from a standstill and the whole car went haywire, cut out and didnt start normally for about 5 min. So i suspect it might be something in the electrical system so have that checked out. Are there any warning lights lit on the dash?

Need to update this thread with some more info, as I could really use the knowledge that you guys have here.

 

Last month I filled the car with petrol, moved about 1 foot from the pump when the car stalled (not my fault.) Despite it going months being fine, the problem had sadly returned. Tried for a good 10 minutes to start it, but in the end gave up and called recovery.

 

Got it booked into a local 'specialist' who had the car for several days. I then got a call to say they were hoping it was the high pressure fuel pump, so they replaced it, but no luck. Later on that day I get another phone call telling me to ignore the previous call, as all is fine now. I was extremely sceptical and went and spoke to them but they were adamant this time that the HPFP had fixed the issue. The car worked, so I hesitantly gave it a try.

 

A few weeks have passed, no problems at all, until tonight. I was on my drive, into reverse, once again it stalls, and I can't start it. Still won't start now so it's sat on the driveway being useless.

 

Now, here is the list that the garage came out with:

Carry out diagnostic check: 012555 - Low pressure fuel regulation - fuel pressure outside specification

Start checking electrical connections - all appear okay (noticed behind fuse panel extra wiring hanging loose/untidy where someone has gone in.)

Car was starting but completely cutting out after a while, recommend replacing the high pressure fuel pump.
Replaced high pressure fuel pump.

 

Now...

At any point when I try to look on Google for 012555, it's ALWAYS linked to low pressure, it also says so in their diagnostic description, so does anyone know of any reason at all as to why they'd want to replace the high pressure one? My understanding was that they were REALLY busy when they took the car on, and I didn't feel like they wanted the job and just wanted to get it over with so took a chance on the high pressure one first and magically got lucky (just like I did first time round when it lasted for months.)

 

Where do I stand with the garage here? Are they in the wrong? How would you all approach the situation?

Hard to say I believe without knowing what readings on fuel pressure they found on there diagnosis. For the high pressure pump to be working right everything on the low pressure side needs to be correct. So you would be needing 4 bar holding pressure on the low side. 6 or 7 bar running pressure on the low side . Around 50 to 60 bar on the high side and with a fuel rail pressure very similar to that of the high pressure pump. I would take it back to them.

Could it be a worn cam follower?

It's the cam follower being moved by a lobe on the camshaft that actuates the High pressure fuel pump.

They are only about £25 and less than an hour to fit so may be worth trying.

Or a more expensive problem could be the lobe on the camshaft is worn?

Rang them this morning to try and get it booked back in, they said they're busy this week so I've decided to leave it a week and then get it booked in when they're quieter (hopefully the car won't be shoved at the back of the list like last time!)

 

The reason I can wait, is that this morning I tried to fire it up again. After a second or so of hesitation it fired to life and so far has seemed fine. Given that both times this has happened previously it's lasted several weeks/months before redeveloping the issue I'd rather take my chances than be without the car the whole week.

 

Hard to say I believe without knowing what readings on fuel pressure they found on there diagnosis. For the high pressure pump to be working right everything on the low pressure side needs to be correct. So you would be needing 4 bar holding pressure on the low side. 6 or 7 bar running pressure on the low side . Around 50 to 60 bar on the high side and with a fuel rail pressure very similar to that of the high pressure pump. I would take it back to them.

 

Thanks for your help, I don't have any further information that that, sadly.

 

 

Could it be a worn cam follower?

It's the cam follower being moved by a lobe on the camshaft that actuates the High pressure fuel pump.

They are only about £25 and less than an hour to fit so may be worth trying.

Or a more expensive problem could be the lobe on the camshaft is worn?

 

Cam follower was replaced earlier this year, previous one was showing little signs of wear after 15-20k, this one has approx 5-8k on it so far, so it seems unlikely.