Hi all,

 

Right got mot next week and when doing pre mot checks with the vehicle rasied on stands I noticed the n/s rear wheel was hard to turn almost as if it had ceased, I took off the drum brake and cleaned down and refitted and problem solved!

 

However handbrake needs tightening and when tightening the handbrake cable via the nut under the ashtray (I turned clockwise) it seems to have had no effect on tightness and the cables seemed to go from being fairly symetrical in tightness to one being further in than the other, don't know if this will cause uneven handbraking.

 

Handbrake still needs tightening abit and obviously I still want to tighten it and want to make sure handbrake is even, as even handbraking is tested as part of the MOT isn't it? Does anyone have any advice please? I have a skoda fabia mk1 1.2

 

Cheers...

After a quick search I've found these threads:

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/204715-wonky-handbrake-adjuster/

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/220061-bent-handbrake-lever-cable-bracket/

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/162907-handbrake-adjustment/

 

Seems to be a fairly common issue. Please can anyone provide step by step instructions on how to do a DIY repair without buying parts? Anyway to adjust the cable at the wheel or oil any linkages to free anything up etc? Bearing in mind I have rear drum brakes, not discs! Cheers

Edited 19 July, 201411 yr by SkodaFabiaOwner

It seems to be common that the pivot which is meant to allow rotation between the lever that the handbrake cable attaches to inside the drum, and the rear brake shoe, seizes solid.  This makes the mechanism ineffective on this side of the car, so tightening the central adjustment inside the car merely tightens the other side slightly, but doesn't address that fact that only one rear wheel is being braked as designed; and leads to the uneven load-sharing bar you've seen.

 

The pivot I'm referring to is at the top of the part that looks a little like a map of Italy (minus Sicily) in this image:

 

http://fautoparts.com/design/imagini/parts-Brake-Shoe-Set-SKODA-FABIA-1-4-SIMER---2-1654861-auto-parts.jpg

 

If you take both drums off again, I reckon you'll find that only one of these pivots is still allowing any rotation.

 

Edit: just seen your second post. 

You may be able to free up the stuck pivot, by working it in rotation, and lubricating (being careful where the lube goes, i.e not on shoes).  Shoes aren't expensive though, unless you buy from a Skoda dealership.

Many thanks - will take a look, also should both pistons and shoes operate (and push on the drum) when pulling on the handbrake? Or should it be one shoe only? And I take it there is no other adjustment to be made anywhere ie if the sieze is resolved the bar should level up on it's own after pressing on the footbrake and putting the handbrake up and down 3 times?

 

Cheers...

Edited 19 July, 201411 yr by SkodaFabiaOwner

The hydraulic circuit (the wheel cylinders/pistons) is not operated by the handbrake. Just that mechanical lever(s) on the rear end of the cable(s).

I can't remember whether this causes both shoes to push on the drum, or just the rear one.  I think, just the rear one. Edit: or maybe both, via the horizontal bar that links the shoes, and the way this lever bears against it, can't remember.

 

Yep, fix the seized pivot and things should get back to normal.

Both shoes should press on the drum as you say.

 

While the drum is off check the pistons are not seized, push them in carefully and they should go in pretty easily

Just a quick update to say many thanks for the fast advice and to say this is now resolved - yay!!

 

I stripped the drums down yesterday and 1 of the pistons on each of the drums had ceased, so free'd and lube'd em up. And also gave the handbrake linkage some lube for good measure. Pumped the brakes and handbrake a few times to self adjust and hey presto the adjuster nut bar is back to being even and all seems to be working well. In fact braking efficiency and the handbrake are massively improved from before doing the work so glad I took the time to look at it prior to the MOT this week - fingers crossed it pays off!! Cheers everyone...

Just be aware sometimes after freeing off pistons like this they do develop leaks, as the bore in the cylinder will be rusty which has caused the seizure, when the piston then starts to move again the rust can damage the seals as they pass over it.

Look out for pedal feeling soft/air in system,or lack of performance from rear brakes.