The issue is with a 1.3 mpi engined felicia. I've give as much detail as possiable, so..

When the car has been on a long run and then is stoped and started again within a few minutes. The engine struggles to start, then when it does then ticks over at very low revs, below normal idle. It then takes heavy application of the accelerator to get the revs to pick up, but then when the accelerator is released the engine idles as it should. This doesn't always happen when the engine is started from hot, but generally it happens after the car is accidently stalled, or if I have been using engine braking for a long period before stopping the engine.

Also I think related to this issue is the fact that when I stop at say a set of lights, the car idles ok for around 5 seconds after the revs have droped to tick over, but then the engine runs slightly rough only just noticable but it's there.

Also the temp gauage during normal driving sits around 80 degrees, not the the usual 90 degree mid point that all other felicia's i've had used to sit at.

But apart from this the car runs faultless including under heavy pressure, like accelerating hard uphill.

 

Things I have checked or changed are:

 

New spark plugs, and air, and fuel filters

New Mk 2 Thermostat with temp sensor

Vaccum hoses checked for splits/leaks

Checked for fault codes, - none

Cleaned throttle body, then reset by disconnecting battery

Can't hear any whisling around throttle body

Took all but 1-2 mm of slack/free play out of throttle cable

 

Any other ideas/suggestions appreciated, Thank You

First check that the valve clearances aren't too tight. Do that with a cold engine.

 

Is the timing chain very noisy? Valve timing will be affected by a very slack chain.

 

Badly contaminated oil will affect the running of a hot engine via the fumes from the breather connection from the rocker cover.

 

Also check that their are no inlet system air leaks, from the inlet manifold gasket, the servo hose, any other vacuum hoses, the servo/master cylinder seal ect. Do that by spraying those areas while the engine is idling with WD40 or similar, if the engine note changes when spraying a particular point that is the leak. Obviously don't spray loads of that directly on to the exhaust.

Thanks Dave, I will check valve clearences at weekend, it's the only thing I didn't do when I serviced the car.

The chain used to be noisy, but after I changed the oil to shell helix, it really quietend down.

I did try to detect leaks in the throttle body by spraying easy start aeosol around it, but mabey I didn't use enough.

Also One thing I forgot to mention, was that when it happens there is a very strong smell of petrol. And mabey related when I remove the oil filler cap there then tends to be a strongish smell of petrol.

Also today I checked the warm/cold air separator valve thingy in the air filter housing, but it seems to be working ok.

rich mixture could indicate unmetered air coming in.

I use propane to check for leaks.

other than that hook the scanner when you know the engine will run rough and watch what oxygen sensor does.

I will try searching for leaks again, this time I will use loads of spray.

Might try a new Coolent temp sensor aswell, because what I have read in this thead http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/310159-strange-things-happening-when-starting/ (the sensor that I got with thermostat housing might be faulty)

some spray has no effect.

propane always does.