Glad I said 'barring incident' because they sold the car over the weekend!

 

This might take a little longer then. Sorry.

Glad I said 'barring incident' because they sold the car over the weekend!

 

This might take a little longer then. Sorry.

:( :( :(

:( :( :(

Totally agree.

Given that CR170's with sunroof and Xenons are hard to find (below £20k) it might be a while before I find another 'right' one.

Although did test drive a Candy White L&K today........ Hmmmmmm!

And a grey one has come up on Autotrader...

Sometimes things are meant to be.....or not.

I'm sure there is a Yeti out there with your name on it.

And then you can polish it....

The grey Yeti is now mine and looking good on the driveway.

 

A few questions, specifically about using the paint and protection products if you don't mind, as I build up my arsenal of detailing products ready for it's first good clean (with me).

 

The paintwork seems to be in very good condition: a few stone chips and minor scratches, but little in the way of swirl marks.

 

Autosmart Tarids: Is it safe to use undiluted? Can I 'thin' it with water before spraying on?

 

LE Rain-X: Same question really. Should I spray these just on effected parts of the body work?

 

With both of these, is it a question of spray on, wait, agitate if necessary, wash off?

 

At this stage I'm going to 'polish' and pre-wax cleanse with DoDO Juice Lime Prime and a DA. This is where I really confused; What pads should I use with this?

 

When applying the wax, is it a question of 'a little goes a long way'? I have some foam applicators, I guess it is a little on these, spread around thinly, wait to haze and buff off with soft microfibre cloth?

 

Thanks for any guidance on these. I like to know what I am doing at each stage, otherwise I feel as though I'm not ready.

Hi KB

 

Glad you have your motor...

 

I am far from an expert and I am sure those with more experience will be along soon...

 

Tardis is ok to use neat but you should only use this as part of you pre polish/wax clean.

 

Guessing the RainX will just be a wipe on and buff off job, but I have never used it.

 

Never used a DA so cant help with that.

 

Good luck.

Used the Tardis today as part of the cleaning and quite impressed. Although it's destroyed a spray nozzle I had!

Iron X and Lime Prime tomorrow...

And Gtechiq on the glass if it warms up.

When do we get some pics Karl?

When I've finished: Which will hopefully be tomorrow. It wa getting dark when I finished today (I only started at 1pm though).

Tomorrow I've got Iron X, DA polish with Lime Prime and wax to put on.

Have to admit I'm a little nervous about those last two.

Iif time and it's warm enough Gtechniq on the glass (no where near warm / dry enough to do the Getechniq trim restorer).

If it's not warm enough then it'll be one wheel off at a time for a thorough clean, but I've nothing to seal them with apart from Optishine.

I've spotted quite a few small stone chips on the rear doors (both sides) but nothing major and no rust.

However, on the OS passenger door there is a rust blister well developed (about a 5p coin size) that can't be due to a stone chip as it's the only one on that panel and none of the actual stone chips on the rear flared edge have rusted!

Looks like another argument with SUK / local dealer over rust and warranty and protective sheets on doors, etc.

I like this guys videos and loads of good tips on detailing

 

http://www.ammonyc.com/videos/

I like this guys videos and loads of good tips on detailing

 

http://www.ammonyc.com/videos/

 

Yes, he has some very good, clear informative tips/videos.

I like this guys videos and loads of good tips on detailing

 

http://www.ammonyc.com/videos/

 

 

Nice one - thanks for sharing 

 

Very clear and informative stuff on there.

A little teaser for you guys (Krystal Kleen Iron-Rain doing its thing before claying with a Liquid Elements Clay Mitt and lot of suds thanks to Meguires Gold Class Shampoo).

 

Oh!, and a quick lunch break for me:

 

 

 

Right. Back to it and my first go with a DA Polisher borrowed from 'George' and DoDo Juice Lime Prime and then the Obsessive Detail wax!

 

Three hours before I have to pick up the kids from school. I don't think I'm going to get it all done in that time...

A little teaser for you guys (Krystal Kleen Iron-Rain doing its thing before claying with a Liquid Elements Clay Mitt and lot of suds thanks to Meguires Gold Class Shampoo).

 

Oh!, and a quick lunch break for me:

 

IMG_4287.jpg  IMG_4288.jpg

 

Right. Back to it and my first go with a DA Polisher borrowed from 'George' and DoDo Juice Lime Prime and then the Obsessive Detail wax!

 

Three hours before I have to pick up the kids from school. I don't think I'm going to get it all done in that time...

 

 

Looking good.... thanks for the teaser!   

Here's the tools for today:

 

 

 

And here's some of the results:

 

   

 

Here's the front of the car (rain stopped play with one door, the boot & roof to do):

 

 

I've managed to reduce or remove most of the scratches (not that there were many) and, hopefully, do the same to the moderate swirl marks that were there. I'll be able to tell tonight as we have quite bright light on the outside of our garage which lights up car bonnets pretty well.

 

It's taken longer than expected, I've learned a lot on the way and, apart from being annoyed that I haven't finished the car and won't be able to until late in the week, it has been good fun.

 

I do need more cloths, more sprayers and more time (and warmer weather so I can do the plastic trim and glass properly). Hopefully I can finish this week and put another coat of wax on and then that will be it ready for winter.

 

Spring will have to see another complete detail with more knowledge and experience behind me. I might even progress on to a 'proper' polish...

 

Thanks for all the answers to my questions and the support from people on this forum. You've cost me a fortune!

That looks great buddy. Even with the DA, it isn't easy is it! You've done yourself proud there. It's definitely worth stepping up to a "one-step" polish in the spring now you've popped your DA cherry. That way, you can turn even a neglected car into one that looks well cared for, and the results are permanent; no fillers involved, just perfect paint!

Thanks for posting pal. It gets addictive from this point onwards.

Well done Karl, looks like you did a great job.

The hybrid 86 will see you well I'm sure.

Enjoy the yeti :-)

Sonax BSD will be on my Christmas list I think. Will help keep the beading topped up throughout winter.

I've just driven 3 miles to pick up the kids from school and it brought a smile to my face watching the water beading off the bonnet.

A few observations in case it helps anyone.

 

Lime Prime certainly cleaned the paintwork prior to waxing which I am happy about - even I could feel the difference! I'd recommend this if you were looking for a pre-wax cleanser (or the 'Lite' version if you don't want any abrasives in there).

 

It has definitely reduced but not removed the swirl marks (see picture). Perhaps this is why DoDo Juice have brought out a more 'aggressive' Plus version of Lime Prime. With hindsight, that would have been a better choice for me.

 

 

Polishing pad choice might have made a difference as well. As I was borrowing the DA and pads, I only had a limited choice of Hex Logic pads to choose from. I think I was using a white pad, but might have benefitted from using an orange pad instead. This is an area, along with polishes, that I need to delve into over winter ready for a spring clean. Or pester ChrisRS to give me a tutorial when I am next up his direction.

 

I played around with spraying water on the pad to keep it moist, but wasn't really sure how it was supposed to look or how long it was supposed to be 'workable' for. So no idea if this helped or not.

 

The wax had a lovely smell (as did the Krystal Kleen Iron Rain and the Lime Prime and NOT like the Tarids which I will be looking to swap next year) and was easy to work with despite my 'novice' status. It went on well although I was concerned at different times that I was using too much or too little. I don't seem to have used much wax from the pot and have done 2/3rds of the car so I am probably about right with usage.

 

Leaving the wax to 'haze' was a bit hit and miss though. It seemed best to buff it off fairly soon after applying (1-2 minutes) as much longer (5 minutes) resulted in the wax pulling fine fibres off the buffing cloth leaving them stuck to the paintwork. Easily rubs off though.

 

The Liquid Elements Clay Mitt was an experience having never used clay or a mitt before. It seems odd that we seek the softest cloths yet are happy to run a large rubber pad across the paint. I think my paint must have been pretty clean after de-taring and de-ironing it so the mitt didn't pick up much at all. It almost seemed like a waste of time, but I bet it wasn't in reality.

 

Next question, how do you clean foam applicator pads? I've got a Hex Logic pad and a cheap foam applicator covered in Lime Prime and another foam pad covered in Meguires NXT Metal Polish.

A few observations in case it helps anyone.

 

Lime Prime certainly cleaned the paintwork prior to waxing which I am happy about - even I could feel the difference! I'd recommend this if you were looking for a pre-wax cleanser (or the 'Lite' version if you don't want any abrasives in there).

 

It has definitely reduced but not removed the swirl marks (see picture). Perhaps this is why DoDo Juice have brought out a more 'aggressive' Plus version of Lime Prime. With hindsight, that would have been a better choice for me.

Its not really designed to be a Swirl Remover Karl...more a cleaner polish and surface prep for wax

 

IMG_4303.jpg

 

Polishing pad choice might have made a difference as well. As I was borrowing the DA and pads, I only had a limited choice of Hex Logic pads to choose from. I think I was using a white pad, but might have benefitted from using an orange pad instead. This is an area, along with polishes, that I need to delve into over winter ready for a spring clean. Or pester ChrisRS to give me a tutorial when I am next up his direction.

An orange pad would be OK but having said already, you must use some polish with that pad

I played around with spraying water on the pad to keep it moist, but wasn't really sure how it was supposed to look or how long it was supposed to be 'workable' for. So no idea if this helped or not.

With diminishing polish, it will eventually change and go clear...Between 4 and 10 passes depending on Pad combo and polish is typical

 

The wax had a lovely smell (as did the Krystal Kleen Iron Rain and the Lime Prime and NOT like the Tarids which I will be looking to swap next year) and was easy to work with despite my 'novice' status. It went on well although I was concerned at different times that I was using too much or too little. I don't seem to have used much wax from the pot and have done 2/3rds of the car so I am probably about right with usage.

 

Leaving the wax to 'haze' was a bit hit and miss though. It seemed best to buff it off fairly soon after applying (1-2 minutes) as much longer (5 minutes) resulted in the wax pulling fine fibres off the buffing cloth leaving them stuck to the paintwork. Easily rubs off though.

 

The Liquid Elements Clay Mitt was an experience having never used clay or a mitt before. It seems odd that we seek the softest cloths yet are happy to run a large rubber pad across the paint. I think my paint must have been pretty clean after de-taring and de-ironing it so the mitt didn't pick up much at all. It almost seemed like a waste of time, but I bet it wasn't in reality.

 

Next question, how do you clean foam applicator pads? I've got a Hex Logic pad and a cheap foam applicator covered in Lime Prime and another foam pad covered in Meguires NXT Metal Polish.

Good work Karl

Some of my thoughts above added

Thanks Chris. Much appreciated.

Sounds like I didn't work the Lime Prime for long enough to get the most out of it.

I wasn't expecting it to remove all the swirls, hence why I am happy with the progress made in reducing them. I'd like to try the Lime Prime Plus next year though (I'm still little scared of polishing pads and polishes).

Any tips on cleaning foam pads?

Just soapy warm water Karl. Squeeze a lot.

As Chris said, lime prime is a prewax cleanser with a bit of bite. Wont remove the swirls, bit it will restore some gloss. I think your pad selection was bang on, the orange wouldn't have added much more bite, and the white is more forgiving being that little bit softer.

It's a different kind of effort with the DA compared to by hand, it's a game of patience and attention to detail. It is just as, if not more tiring. It certainly doesn't make it any quicker. When you move to a pure polish, as chris said, the polish turns from white into what looks like a clear gel. Thats the time to sloww the DA down and make a couple more slow passes. Without that step down, you will leave holograms. On silver, not so noticeable but on darker cars, it looks horrendous.

Great post pal, sharing experiences this way is the only way for others to be guided. It will be beneficial for many people out there. Nice one.

Wash them by hand with some Washing up liquid...rinse well, then put them in the washing machine on a 30C cycle with Washing Machine liquid detergent

Thanks for all the advice & tips. Please keep them coming.