I drive a Skoda Octavia RS mk1 2003. It is the second RS mk1 in my property. current car has serving me very well, perhaps even better than the first but here I have a few little problems that I can not solve, and I want to advise someone on this forum.

 The first problem I was basically clear, the car slowly achieving operating temperature and the operating temperature is achieved in stop start conditions, on the open road it drops slightly as it should not (I know this because the first RS it never happened) it is certain that it comes from the bad thermostat. I write this fact because i dont know is the main problem have some conections with bad thermostat.

 

The main problem that I can not solve is (if i  translated well) weakly twitching/jolting/hesitating in drive, which takes place at about 2000-2500 rpm and most felt in the 2-nd gear. This hapen  when I hold the throttle constant at 2000-2500 rpm-s, or if slowly accelerating. When i  sharper  speed up  engine is have no any of these trouble or it must be far less when dont feel it.This happens when engine is cold and when heated equally. The idling car is running smoothly, as well as in every other mode of travel.. Starting perfect cold-varm. No any other signs of trouble. Service has ben done before 300km-s,(oil and all filters) and MIL is off, on the diagnostic everything is fine. Spark plugs is new... 

 

Any help is appreciated. Sorry for my bad English!

Regards!

Edited 26 October, 201411 yr by WEST014

1. Stuck thermostat.

2. Try cleaning the throttle body.

As above, I had sticky thermostat, temp would drop when off gas, gently cruising, going downhill because car was over cooling itself. I got the to change temp sensor while they were there as they're peanuts anyway.

For the stutter you could try cleaning throttle body, potentially cheap fix, but it sounds to me like one of your coil packs might be on its way out. Sounds like a problem I had on my Seat. It was something I chased round the car until a coil pack melted, then I knew for sure. Could try a scan for misfiring cylinder, not sure it shows up when its in the early stages. My engine light would come on when it started misfiring badly. It would be worse on steady 1/3 to 1/2 throttle in 2nd or 3rd. Don't take that as gospel though, could be a number of things. I hate misfires. Try get hold of one coil pack and try each cylinder in turn before you replace the lot when its not that after all.

i haved bad coil pack on my previous rs. Its shaked car well, engine changed sound, worked rough and MIL is activated (blinked) in the moment of missfiring. I changed coil pack and all ben fine. this is more smooth i think, its not something dreadfull at all, but i want to have all in perfect condition :-) thanks for the posts!!

Mine went from a subtle very slight misfire with no light, car pretty much smooth, to a jerky mess with a blinking light. Could well be something else but I wouldn't rule it out completely just yet. Have you scanned it?

Use genuine vag ones too. A garage I used a few years ago fitted an aftermarket one and the car constantly hesitated and misfired with it. Ruled it out at first thinking it wouldn't be that as it was new. It was only ages later I got the recall work carried out for coilpacks the misfire disappeared. Just a thought there your car might qualify for the recall if its still ongoing which I think it is.

Here in my town we dont have good scan specialist. It all comes to only see if the mil is on what was reported as an error and clean and MIL off. That is very difficult to me to find and fix some problems. Also i dont think to have in my city good mechanic for 1.8t. Only regular services.. In Belgrade maybe but i don have time to chase it. I first clean TB to see what happening. Thanx all!!

There's a good guide on here somewhere on cleaning TB, don't unplug it! As you'll need vag com to reset it. You may get away with not having to replace the gasket.

 I drive a Skoda Octavia RS mk1 2003. It is the second RS mk1 in my property. current car has serving me very well, perhaps even better than the first but here I have a few little problems that I can not solve, and I want to advise someone on this forum.

 The first problem I was basically clear, the car slowly achieving operating temperature and the operating temperature is achieved in stop start conditions, on the open road it drops slightly as it should not (I know this because the first RS it never happened) it is certain that it comes from the bad thermostat. I write this fact because i dont know is the main problem have some conections with bad thermostat.

 

The main problem that I can not solve is (if i  translated well) weakly twitching/jolting/hesitating in drive, which takes place at about 2000-2500 rpm and most felt in the 2-nd gear. This hapen  when I hold the throttle constant at 2000-2500 rpm-s, or if slowly accelerating. When i  sharper  speed up  engine is have no any of these trouble or it must be far less when dont feel it.This happens when engine is cold and when heated equally. The idling car is running smoothly, as well as in every other mode of travel.. Starting perfect cold-varm. No any other signs of trouble. Service has ben done before 300km-s,(oil and all filters) and MIL is off, on the diagnostic everything is fine. Spark plugs is new... 

 

Any help is appreciated. Sorry for my bad English!

Regards!

 

TBH buddy your English is better than some folks in  England lol so don't worry..

 

 

Your first problem is likely to be one or both of these:

 

- Bad thermostat

- faulty temp sensor

 

 

Your main problem It is very hard to diagnose your type of symptoms easy as there could be so many conditions and factors.

 

Firstly you do not always get a Cell or MIL for some faults which again does not make it easy to diagnose.

 

This sticky thread may help you

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/54167-splutter-is-doing-my-head-in/

 

Items I would check before buying stuff are

 

- coil packs seated firmly(sometimes they lift)

- spark plug condition and gap (no mapped should be 0.8mm mapped 0.7mm)

- coil pack wiring (check for insulation cracks etc (heat over the years can break down the insulation and cause earthing)

- un plug MAF and see if runs better(should run worse if MAF is good)

- spray MAF sensor plug, coilpack plugs, cam sensor and any ignition sensor you see with electrical silicon spray. (this you will not believe can help current flow)

- check air filter condition (a clogged filter is not good)

- check battery terminals(fuse box) are nice and tight

- do a throttle body clean. (replace gasket and don't worry about disconnecting plug, when you disconnect battery the ECU and components with reset and re learn / calibrate very quickly)

 

none of the above will cost you

 

report back after that, then it may get more expensive

Had the same problem with mine threw up engine management light, turned out to be the coolant temperature sensor apparently a common failure ....

thank you all for help!!

has it been in for the coil pack re-call?? Its free and the work is dun by skoda, my 2001 hadnt been dun and is booked in this weekend, not all ppl new about it.... Mark

realy need to update my profile pick lol...

I buy today thermostat (behr) about 8 euros cost. I need also a new anti freeze after changing? and what type is for my car. thanx!

Most people's experience with cheap aftermarket stats isn't good.

I would advise you get a genuine VAG stat & VAG G13 antifreeze.

Theres be only this behr. Its authorized Skoda shop. 

I just wanted to add that WEST014 described exactly the issue I had and that Pauldazzle gave the solution!

 

2nd gear 2-2.5K revs, constant throttle or slowly accelerating and the car was jolting almost like the power suddenly dropped off. A 99p can of throttle body cleaner and a quick clean and the problem has disappeared. The Only tip I would add is when spraying the cleaner into the body, put a rag or towel over the alternator as it sits underneath and probably won't appreciate getting wet.

 

The main problem that I can not solve is (if i  translated well) weakly twitching/jolting/hesitating in drive, which takes place at about 2000-2500 rpm and most felt in the 2-nd gear. This hapen  when I hold the throttle constant at 2000-2500 rpm-s, or if slowly accelerating. When i  sharper  speed up  engine is have no any of these trouble or it must be far less when dont feel it.This happens when engine is cold and when heated equally. The idling car is running smoothly, as well as in every other mode of travel.. Starting perfect cold-varm. No any other signs of trouble. Service has ben done before 300km-s,(oil and all filters) and MIL is off, on the diagnostic everything is fine. Spark plugs is new... 

 

 

Did you remove the throttle body?

To clean the TB properly you have to remove it to clean the manifold side as it's that side that gets all gunked up.

I must confess no I didn't. My slap-dash job seems to have done the trick for now though......

I left the throttle body attached but used the ignition on and was very careful after using the throttle to clean around the opened butterfly

I left the throttle body attached but used the ignition on and was very careful after using the throttle to clean around the opened butterfly

Yeah my Mrs' right foot came in handy, I still detached mine though, had a plastic tub underneath to catch drips.