Why not?

Quite often I need to apply some force to the face of the alloy before it will detach from the hub. Your head, neck and arms are all in or around the wheel arch.

If the trolley jack fails, suddenly shifts or the car slips off then an axle stand can easily save you.

I slide one alongside the trolley jack just under the sill, an inch below. Yes, if the axel stand is needed it's probably going to bend the sill but at least you'll be alive.

Quick tip, if ever having to do that at the roadside kick the bottom of the tyre with bolts undone and normally it frees it off.

I think the previous replies regarding cost didn't take into account your location j3bnl!

 

No they obviously didn't mate!

Can anyone say what is the minimum lift required is for a trolley Jack to be suitable for the Yeti? I've seen a few candidates but some have a lift height of 340mm or so and others 380mm and some guys on here have ones that raise way over that.

Edited 2 November, 201411 yr by j3bnl

 

You will not need to use axle stands if you are just changing wheels -- and where would you position them without causing damage anyway?

2 under the console bushes & there will be somewhere at the rear that works. On my Octavia I usually put mine under the sticker that says "Don't jack here" -it's the strongest, most stable point so I have no idea why the sticker is there.

Axle stands are a stupid name to use as you rarely put them under the "axles" of modern cars. Jack stands is a better name.

If you are going to have a jack then you may as well get some stands so you can X-rotate the tyres every 5000miles.

I cut two hacksaw slots in the puck (to the width of the chisel blade) and then chilled it out, my slot is roughly 20mm wide.

 

Obviously a router would be neater though.

 

Please be careful if going with the router. The puck is small and will be difficult to hold. The router can quite easily grab. I plan on first screwing mine down to a block of wood for cutting the slot. I might do the cuting on a radial arm saw if the material is not to hard. [i will find this out when I drill the scre holes]

 

Colin

Going to go with this one :-

 

http://www.sgs-engineering.com/tj2c-2-trolley-jack-with-case

 

Seems decent enough, is CE & GS/TUV Marked and has a 2 year warranty.

Doesn't have a huge maximum lift height (380mm) but that should be plenty enough for changing the wheels over.

Edited 3 November, 201411 yr by j3bnl

Going to go with this one :-

 

http://www.sgs-engineering.com/tj2c-2-trolley-jack-with-case

 

Seems decent enough, is CE & GS/TUV Marked and has a 2 year warranty.

Doesn't have a huge maximum lift height (380mm) but that should be plenty enough for changing the wheels over.

 

I had one almost identical to that which I used for swapping the wheels on my previous Octavia.  It did the job, but I was a bit concerned about it's stability when at maximium lift, and the saddle was so small that you couldn't use a jack pad (so I ended up damaging the sills  ).

Why not?

 

Quite often I need to apply some force to the face of the alloy before it will detach from the hub. Your head, neck and arms are all in or around the wheel arch.

 

If the trolley jack fails, suddenly shifts or the car slips off then an axle stand can easily save you.

 

I slide one alongside the trolley jack just under the sill, an inch below. Yes, if the axel stand is needed it's probably going to bend the sill but at least you'll be alive.

 

I have a Halfords 2.25 ton 4x4 jack and I pack a block of wood under the arm (lengthwise) so if it does collapse, it wont go far. I would certainly never rely on just the jack.

 

I've been told by several people independently that I can jack mine (don't know if this applies to Haldex too) on the rear diff and stick stands under the jacking points, but I've not dared yet.

^^^^^^ If you chock the other 3 wheels the risk of movement is substantially reduced and as above kick or thump the bottom of the elevated tyre!

I had one almost identical to that which I used for swapping the wheels on my previous Octavia. It did the job, but I was a bit concerned about it's stability when at maximium lift, and the saddle was so small that you couldn't use a jack pad (so I ended up damaging the sills ).

I think with a hockey puck or piece of hardwood the small saddle shouldn't be an issue.

Edited 3 November, 201411 yr by j3bnl

I think with a hockey puck or piece of hardwood the small saddle shouldn't be an issue.

 

I had the hockey pucks, but they were larger than the saddle so I couldn't use them. 

I had the hockey pucks, but they were larger than the saddle so I couldn't use them. 

 

Why not? I have a block of rubber with a slot, very much like the hockey puck, except it was square and its bigger than the saddle, which bites into the underside so it doesn't slip off the edge.

I had the hockey pucks, but they were larger than the saddle so I couldn't use them.

Why couldn't you sit the puck on the saddle, bigger or not and raise the Jack until the puck had engaged at the jacking point?

Why not? I have a block of rubber with a slot, very much like the hockey puck, except it was square and its bigger than the saddle, which bites into the underside so it doesn't slip off the edge.

 

The pucks are pretty hard - I wasn't convinced that the saddle would bite into the puck and didn't want to risk the puck potentially sliding off the saddle during lifting.

 

Why couldn't you sit the puck on the saddle, bigger or not and raise the Jack until the puck had engaged at the jacking point?

 

I just wasn't happy lifting my car with a hockey puck placed on top of a smaller saddle.  The whole arrangement just seemed precarious so I invested in a more suitable trolley jack where the puck sits securely inside the larger saddle.

Like all safety questions, its a personal decision, I suppose the H&S Inspectorate never do anything practical, judging by their edicts to protect the rest of us!

Why not?

 

Quite often I need to apply some force to the face of the alloy before it will detach from the hub. Your head, neck and arms are all in or around the wheel arch.

 

If the trolley jack fails, suddenly shifts or the car slips off then an axle stand can easily save you.

 

I slide one alongside the trolley jack just under the sill, an inch below. Yes, if the axel stand is needed it's probably going to bend the sill but at least you'll be alive.

You should put a smear of grease on the mating surfaces then your wheels will not corrode onto the hub.

 

You only need to jack the car up so that the tyre just clears the ground to remove a wheel.

 

I don't think there is anywhere on the Yeti (other than the jacking points) that I would trust a stand to be used without causing damage.

 

A properly shaped puck on the sill so that the weight is on the flat area just behind the flange but is positioned by the flange of the sill and is made so that it won't slip off the jack seems to be the best bet together with a 2 tonne trolley jack. 

Edited 3 November, 201411 yr by Norry

You should put a smear of grease on the mating surfaces then your wheels will not corrode onto the hub.

 

You only need to jack the car up so that the tyre just clears the ground to remove a wheel.

 

I don't think there is anywhere on the Yeti (other than the jacking points) that I would trust a stand to be used without causing damage.

 

A properly shaped puck on the sill so that the weight is on the flat area just behind the flange but is positioned by the flange of the sill and is made so that it won't slip off the jack seems to be the best bet together with a 2 tonne trolley jack. 

I don't think there is anywhere on the Yeti (other than the jacking points) that I would trust a stand to be used without causing damage.

 

A properly shaped puck on the sill so that the weight is on the flat area just behind the flange but is positioned by the flange of the sill and is made so that it won't slip off the jack seems to be the best bet together with a 2 tonne trolley jack. 

The stand isn't there to hold the car up, its there to support it should the jack fail. Its less of an issue to bend the car than crush a hand/head.

Had a last minute change of mind and went for this trolley Jack instead:-

http://m.screwfix.com/p/2-5-tonne-quick-lift-4x4-trolley-jack/45834?filtered=true

If lifting height is an issue with a "normal" trolley jack, why not sit it across a a couple of pieces of 4x2 timber. This would not only raise the jack but increase the surface area in contact with the ground making it potentially more stable and less likely to sink into soft ground.

 

Colin

I'm strongly considering acquiring a trolley Jack and "hockey puck" type Jack pad prior to an imminent change to winter wheels. This thread has been very useful re choice of jack. However the proper use use of rubber puck or similar has me baffled due to variations in what I have read. I've done a lot of reading on this forum and elsewhere and the cutting of a slot in the puck to accommodate the pinch seam appears eminently sensible to me, though the Yeti seam appears deepish measuring about 20mm(??). However there is some talk that the pinch seam should indeed take all the weight (doesn't seem right to me (??) and that the sill floor either side of the pinch seam is not designed to take the weight. I am referring exclusively to the jacking point vicinity. People with these opinions advocate use of uncut rubber pad purely to protect the pinch seam from scratching. When I use the screw Jack provided on my Yeti then on some of the jacking points the weight is transfered to the floor immediately adjacent to the seam, and on at least one (thicker pinch seam) the seam appears to take all the weight.

Anyone have an answer to my quandary other than sticking with the Jack supplied.

I was wondering the same as I've read similarly conflicting information.

Does the projecting seam take the weight or does the bodywork either side bear it?

Take a look at the factory supplied scissor jack (where fitted).

 

The top has a 'U' shape so that the thin lower edge of the sill can sit in it.

 

However you'll also notice that it isn't a symetrical 'U'. The back side (the side hidden from view) is slightly lower and has more support.

 

So, both the sill and rear support hold the weight of the car. This is why you should only jack the car at the points on the sill where directed. If you miss these sections then you won't be on the additional rear support as it is only added behind each jacking point.

 

The beauty of the puck is that the rubber is quite flexible so it is able to squeeze itself across the sill and rear support.

 

Some people suggest that the puck may not distribute the weight of the car over the sill and rear support properly, thereby squashing the less strong sill. I've never found this on either of my MkII Octavia's or MkII Superb, in fact the puck does a great job of protecting the underseal. When I needed to use the scissor jack on the roadside I found it nipped the underseal.

I realize its frowned on but why not jack on the suspension arms just behind the wheel? used this method for the last beast and beforehand 2 Berlingo's with no apparent ill effects, the time on the jack would be less than 5 mins per corner!

 

See here...

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/271234-jacking-points-for-trolley-jackaxle-stands/